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Chevrolet Malibu, Sedan
#266 of 444 Re: Aftermarket radio - How? [pao]
by madmaxx
Jun 27, 2005 (9:23 am)
The adaptor I purchased is the GM12-AUX v2. Unfortunately, it is 12 pin and Maxx is 24 pin. It says 2004 Malibu, but it must be for the '04 Malibu "Classic"--GM did us no favors by having two 2004 Malibus in the line-up.
PIE (Precision Interface Electronics--www.pie.net), called, they do not have an adaptor.
I found another adapter-- Peripheral Interface Components #PXGM24-- that is 24 pin and made for GM class 2 RDS factory stereos. It provides 2 sets of RCA inputs. $97 at Sounddomain; will give it a try and post results.
The front speakers were replaced with Blaupunkt TSC 660 components (separate 6.75" bass/mid driver and tweeter. I sealed the crossovers in a plastic bag/bubble plastic and used double sided tape to secure them to the inner door panels. The factory tweeters pop out. Their metal mesh grill is melted into the housing, so I used a soldering gun to heat the plastic and pop them out (the grills on the Blau tweeters are not removable).
The rear door speakers were replaced with Blaupunkt TSx 662's. These are 6.75" two way speakers. You could easily use the Blaupunkt TSC 660's in the rear door panels by mounting the tweeters in "sail" panel of the rear door, just as they are in front.
Everything was purchased at Crutchfield. The Blaupunkt TSC 660 component speakers are on sale for $40 ($70 off reg) and the Blaupunkt TSx 662's are $30 ($20 off). Crutchfield includes wiring adaptors, so you do not have to cut the factory wiring.
Removing the door panels is not difficult. You definitely want to purchase a trim removal tool ($10)--it will save your door panels and retainer clips from damage.
There are three panel clips on the bottom of each door. The front doors also have retainers at spots near the top of the panel, so don't just pop the lower retainers and then attempt to pull the panel up/off like you do on the rear doors.
The factory manual states that you must first remove the front door panels in order to remove the front "sail" panels (where the tweeters are). I found it is was better to use the panel tool to pop the front sail panel, and pull it straight up (but not completely off). By doing so, it would not interfere with pulling the actual door panel up/off.
The front drivers door is the most difficult, because of all its wiring. I think Chevy must build the car upside down, as nearly all the releases for the Molex wiring connecters are on the bottom of the control/switch. Do the other panels first, that way you'll have an idea of what to expect. Having a helper would also make it easier.
As long as I had the panels off, I added insulation inside the door. I used "Gutter Repair Tape" $13 for a 6" x 25' roll at Lowes. This is a rubberized asphalt tape with super sticky adhesive on one side and aluminum foil on the other. It is 1mm thick, and I built it up to 2-4 millimeters in thickness inside the door.
Definitely quieted the car down, and does not stink like using spray-on undercoating. I used a total of three rolls for all four doors, and have some left over. There is enough clearance inside the doors to easily double the thickness if you wanted to.
Bottom line-the speakers are an improvement. No, they do not sound like $200 Infinity Reference speakers, but at $70 for all four, they are worth it. Much more accurate, better bass/midrange/highs than the stock speakers (which, by the way, are paper cones).
As noted by another poster, an amplifier would make them come "alive"--my new speakers sound best at half volume and above. Will add an amplifier later.
Jun 28, 2005 (9:02 am)
maddmaxx, thanks for the info on your speaker install. sounds like a set of decent aftermarket speakers definitely would make a difference in our Maxx, as it did in yours.
It's good to know the Maxx's amp/head unit is decent enough that the better speakers are noticed. I've got an Isuzu Trooper and installed some Polk 2-way speakers in place of the stock speakers, and the quality was barely any better than stock - I think because the head unti must be junk.
#268 of 444 Adding a Auxillary Adaptor
by madmaxx
Jul 02, 2005 (7:36 am)
The Peripheral Interface Components #PXGM24 Molex connectors will not connect to the factory stereo.
Although a 24pin unit, the connectors are "keyed" opposite the factory wiring harness. I considered cutting the wiring on the adaptor, turning it over 180 degrees, and reconnecting the wires.
As there was no guarantee that the adaptor would work, even with the correct connector, so, with $100 on the line, I chickened out and returned the adaptor to CarDomain.com.
Personally, I think with the correct Molex connector, the adaptor probably would work. If there is anyone who has access to Molex connectors, are knows how to disassemble/reassemble the connector, this might be a interesting project.
--MadMaxx--
#269 of 444 Re: _portable DVD to Car stereo for sound?[_helper] Device?_
by drej
Jul 06, 2005 (11:42 am)
Hi, Well I'm still looking for that Auxiliary device which will connect the kids DVD to the car stereo somehow for sound. Any Ideas out there? ~ D
#270 of 444 Re: _portable DVD to Car stereo for sound?[_helper] Device?_ [drej]
by sschriber
Jul 07, 2005 (5:25 am)
Any store with electronics will have an "FM Transmitter". Usually battery powered, it plugs in the headphone or audio jack of the DVD and can be picked up at the selected frequency on the FM Stereo Radio. I have read some previous strings about signal strength and the rear end location of the Maxx antenna. I saw one at Target last week for $19.95. They go on e-bay for $5 plus shipping.
#271 of 444 Re: Aftermarket radio - How? [madmaxx]
by billb
Jul 09, 2005 (8:56 am)
Thanks for your post. I did get XM. The sound quality is OK on XM. It is OK on CD It is not good on FM though I don't listen to that much anymore. I would like to just replace the speakers for better sound and not have to replace the entire deck and driver information center.
Can I just replace the 4 door speakers and leave the door tweaters alone? Would replacing the tweaters make a big difference if I had 4 good speakers? Are all 4 door speakers 6.75 round? What size are the tweaters? Do I need any extra parts for the speaker replacement? I have replaced speakers in all my cars before and it was easy but it sounds like the Maxx may be a little harder. Finally, do I get the trim tool at a dealer or at any auto store?
Thanks in advance.
#272 of 444 Re: Forged Wheels [pao]
by kurtamaxxguy
Jul 09, 2005 (2:15 pm)
Does NTB have a web site?
#273 of 444 Re: Forged Wheels [kurtamaxxguy]
by maxx4me
Jul 09, 2005 (4:44 pm)
he, he...that is the website. Just add .com
#274 of 444 Re: Forged Wheels [maxx4me]
by kurtamaxxguy
Jul 10, 2005 (12:58 pm)
NTB site referred me to BIG O tires out here on west coast. O web site completely useless for wheels. Local O store did have listing for forged wheels for the Maxx, but only in ugly chrome - pity.
#275 of 444 Re: Forged Wheels [kurtamaxxguy]
by pao
Jul 10, 2005 (1:26 pm)
no luck on the tirerack website?..I selected mine there..though not forged..and purchased them thru NTB