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Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

4314 messages, Last post on Nov 04, 2009 at 10:09 PM
You are in the Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Forum. Your Hosts are car_man & kyfdx
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Replying to: ylz (Jan 20, 2009 6:40 pm) If you have the serial # to stereo you can contact Honda through dealer and get the "push button" code to reset stereo. Just going through same with my CRV which just had new battery put in - wish Sears would have told me this before, now I have to pull stereo out to see the serial#. Love my CRV and my Mazdaspeed3 both!
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Replying to: orca3 (Jan 21, 2009 2:31 pm)
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Replying to: mcwong (Jan 19, 2009 12:35 pm) |
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Replying to: ylz (Jan 21, 2009 5:38 pm) 1. Check glove compartment for a sticker, if there is one with 6 digits on it, that's it! Just enter that in. 2. Check your paperwork from when you got the car, it might be in there, look for a white sticker with numbers on it. 3. Call up the dealership you got the car from and provide them with the VIN to your car, although they might make you come down to verify that you're the owner. 4. Get the serial from behind the radio, this requires taking stuff apart. Your headlight is an easy fix, should be able to just change the bulb, probably 8-12 bucks at walmart. Get a new battery and sell the car on your own. And like the person above said, if you're going for 0%, don't put any money down, stick the 5k into an interest yielding savings account and take money out of there each month to make up the difference. |
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Replying to: ylz (Jan 20, 2009 6:40 pm) Let's assume an OTD price of $19,500 and the 0% financing for 36 months: 0% down - $541.67/mo 5K down - $402.78/mo A difference of approx $139/mo. If you took that $5000 and put it in an account making 1.5% and withdrew the extra $139/mo for the higher payment, you would have roughly $120 left over at the end of the loan. Certainly not much over 3 years, but it shows that there really is no sense putting anything down if you can hold to a budget and NOT touch that account except for the car payment.
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Replying to: salem66 (Jan 22, 2009 7:13 am) You'll have to pay taxes on the 1.5% you are earning... That will knock the return down to around 1%.. |
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Color: Black Mica/Black Optional Equipment: Rear Bumper Guard, Wheel Locks and Carpet Floor Mats MSRP: 19,095 Offer: 17.5k + TTL This is in southern california, is this a fair price? I was hoping for 18k OTD with 0 down 0% 36 months = 500 a month payment. Or is my demand unreasonable?
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Replying to: kle1 (Jan 22, 2009 2:40 pm) You don't give a tax rate, so I'll assume mine (6.75). I just bought a 5-spd Touring HB and, if we compare what we each "saved" off our respective MSRPs, I saved about $997 more than you - again, I had to estimate a few things (title work, etc), but it shouldn't be that far off. That's right in line with expected additional $1000 in rebates when you refuse their financing. So, if I got a good deal ( I am pleased with it), then your sport at 18K OTD with Mazda financing is good deal and your demand is not out of line. In order to really figure it out, you'd have to give your tax rate .. and the invoice wouldn't hurt. |
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Replying to: salem66 (Jan 22, 2009 7:13 am) This goes double if you have poor/mediocre credit and they are still offering 0%. good luck --jjf Regarding putting 0% down. I am by no means a financial expert, but look at this: Let's assume an OTD price of $19,500 and the 0% financing for 36 months: 0% down - $541.67/mo 5K down - $402.78/mo A difference of approx $139/mo. If you took that $5000 and put it in an account making 1.5% and withdrew the extra $139/mo for the higher payment, you would have roughly $120 left over at the end of the loan. Certainly not much over 3 years, but it shows that there really is no sense putting anything down if you can hold to a budget and NOT touch that account except for the car payment. |
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Replying to: kle1 (Jan 22, 2009 2:40 pm) |
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