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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Mazda3 Prices Paid and Buying Experience
3644 messages, Last post on Aug 21, 2008 at 2:42 PM
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Replying to: vancewade (Jul 17, 2006 3:51 pm) Vance- I get 19,900 for the car and dest.(MSRP?) and your are paying 21000 ...over msrp? or even invoice? This seems way too high unless I am missing something and not good. Keep it simple MSRP,invoice (if you know it) and then offer(s) with all fees. Congrats on being froggy and faxing up to 400mi? round trip. Putting 10 -20 dealerships in a competitive bidding situation is the best way to get the lowest price on any commodity. Which is what new cars are. You should get 50 60% response rate Negotiating by phone # and talking to the Sales or Fleet Manager (not internet sales manager) 2-3 of them will prove to be the best and most eager. Emphasize to your responses you are getting bids from 10+ dealers and you are definitely buying before the month ends. You look forward to doing business with them. If they equivocate tell them you will definitely be buying by the end of the month and something like "Give me your best ""Im a sales manager who wants to book a low profit deal at the end of the month"" shot." Numerous may say what a waste of time it is.... they all pay the same price... etc. As a general rule its better to get the names of the sales/fleet managers and direct your fax directly to them. Then negotiate by phone, not email. They may handle it personally taking a commission to a salesperson off the table if possible (good for you) or delegate it. Get the number to their personal fax line or the machine closest to them (if it differs from the fax #on the website or dealer locator) Narrowing it down to the best 2 or so dealers before you even walk into a dealership is smart. In any event regardless of fees , if you find for example a NC dealer who bids 18,000 with all fees, and another who bids 18200 with all fees A is greater than B and the choice is simple, unless we have to drive 400mi to save $200... not cool. Getting the total emphasizing with ALL fees (itemized) and everything is good anyway lest we drive 200 mi and get a nasty $500 "Dealers daughter needs expensive dentalwork fee" or such by the F&I guy who knows you drove a long way and trys a fast one. Rare but not so rare either. DC assessment fees Ad fees Dealers Horsetrack losses fees Dealers Wife's restauraunt is going under fees Are all legal and legit (as long as they aren't discriminatory based on race religion or sex) They may be itemized, included in his offer hidden or non existent. If they want to compete they will drop the fees or lower the price and keep the fees. It doesn't matter What matters is lowest price OTD. (sales tax or hwy tax from your state is a constant) Bid one off the other and see if any are especially eager the last 4 days of the month with any callbacks. If one dealer proposes a 18000 offer + 600 in processing and title fees etc, this is obviously superior to a 18900 offer with no fees for the same car. (To get silly a 10,000 offer with $8100 in fees is the best to demonstrate a point) IF you truly get a standout deal far away and your requirements arent exacting obviously offer your business to get some of the locals to meet or beat it. Emphasize they will be stop one for all service (where most dealership profits are anyway) and to all they will get the highest customer satisfaction score for any surveys on this purchase you can provide. (Don't underestimate this) When you finally walk in to the 1-2 standouts don't be afraid to walk out and sleep on it. If they are close by. Especially if we have a few days left in the month (Anyone responsible spending a lot of money would do so no? , or "that Focus is a helluva lot cheaper and may meet my needs" )If they say the offer will vaporize, good for this minute only if you walk out, give a amused smile as you graduated kiddiegarten long ago) You may get a cell call within the next few days with a lower bid for your business, or a salesman stopping you in the parking lot with a lower offer. And you can always walk right back in and accept immediately or in a day or two. As long as its before "witching hour " (end of month). The mazda 3 sedan seems to be more popular than the hatch, and 1000 under invoice or more seems to be possible (especially the hatch). Many times dealers will let a few go for a no or low profit deal (or even a loss?) to savvy negotiators towards the end of the month of a popular seller to prove sales power and guarantee a continuing or increasing allotment of a popular seller. Good business sense. Numerous other reasons exist. Your canvassing a wide number helps you find the dealer(S) in such situations if they exist that month. Keep in mind that despite invoice, Msrp and advertised dealer inscentives being public, you have no idea what their profit is on a machine. In the last decade an increasing amount of profit on new cars has been in the form of unadvertised inscentives usually based on sales performance and customer satisfaction indexes. More than 70% of dealer profits come from used cars and the service dept. I sold cars for a number of years, and many times found myself responding to customer objections with (as I was trained) "We gotta make something on this". If I had a $20 bill for every time I made this remark I'd be retired, whether I grossed $50 or $3000 on the deal, depending on how I read the customer. Regards --jjf Just sent out faxed requests for bids to dealers a couple hundred miles in every direction from our home in North Carolina. Got what I think is a good bid from a Maryland dealer (details below, if anyone wants to analyze). But it includes a $240 "Washington D.C. Assessment fee" in addition to the $99 processing fee (which I know MD dealers charge). I can find no online reference to any such legitimate fee. In addition, I can't imagine why I'd have to pay anything to the District of Columbia when I'm buying a car in Maryland and when I live in North Carolina. I'd love to get everyone's feedback on whether this is legit. Here's the deal: 5-door, Mazda3 S-GT base price: $18,135 Sunroof/Bose/6CD bundle: $1,148 Wheel locks: $32 Destination: $560 Tag and title: $83 (including $15 MD temp. license so I can drive it back to N.C.) Processing: $99 Washington D.C. Assessment: $240 N.C. Highway use tax (this is def. legit; it's instead of sales tax): $632.07 Total out-the-door: $21,784.07 OTD minus tax, tag, title= $21,069 Thanks in advance for your insights. --Vance |
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What are you really saying here? That post is waaayyyyy to longggggg. I got lost 1/2 way through it, as I suspect most did also. The Sandman 
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After much debate between the two halves of my brain I am still in a dillema. I like both the civic and the mazda 3 hatch. 1. For mazda owners, how reliable is the car? 2. I wanted to get the same features and options the civic ex has into the mazda 3 hatch, so I was thinkin the S Touring (AT) with only the moonroof package(for now). After calculating this on mazda's site it comes to a little over 20k (not too bad for all the options and safety features i guess). 3.If any of you own this type of setup listed above, how much did you end up paying? 4. I guess in the longrun the mazda is a couple thou cheaper? *oh no minor venting period ahead*: Since the CA amongst other dealers think its an excellent idea to markup the civic with rediculus numbers-23,999+tax+tags+emissions+docfees+whatever else they can think of tacking on the OTDP- I can understand a little bit of a markup but yuck.) I dunno anymore 5. I really love the hatch, and can't stand regular trunks(you can fit so much more) but I like the civic ex. well i guess my whole point is i need some guidance or something. Have a good day everyone .
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Replying to: chyv1083 (Jul 27, 2006 4:24 pm) And if you like hatches much better, I think you just about made your mind up. I had a 3 hatch for a month (coincidence rental from Enterprise). I liked it and probably would have gotten one if I could go back in time - especially the fact you had a remote release for the trunk (unlike the sedan) |
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Hello to all. I am planning to purchase a 2006 mazda 3i Touring within the next week. The only add-ons: Auto tranny and an ABS package (maybe the moonroof package if I afford it). Went to Koeppel Mazda in NY and got quoted 16,800 which included a $200 NY Assessment Fee (is that fee actually something legit?). Is that a good deal or should I be trying to get the one with the moonroof for the same price?? Any info you could give me would really help out. Thanks.
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Replying to: naejae (Aug 10, 2006 4:17 pm)
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Replying to: cyberbebe03 (Aug 10, 2006 9:15 pm) 2.3L ENGINE BADGE [BDG] CARGO NET [CGN] SIRIUS SATELLITE RADIO [SAT] WHEEL LOCKS [WLK] PWR SLIDING MOONROOF & IN-DASH 6-DISC CD CHANGER PKG [1MC] FRONT SIDE-IMPACT AIRBAGS & FRONT/REAR SIDE AIR CURTAINS [2AB] this seems way to high. I can get s-pricing for 18688. Was wondering how much lower I showed ask.also should I wait for the 2007 model and how is the depreciation on these cars? thanks for any info you can offer
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Replying to: david2033 (Aug 14, 2006 4:46 pm) If you need a target to shoot for, (not the best way to do it) shoot for 1200 off invoice and get the best you can. Best if you get 10-15 competitive quotes last week of the month. Helpful if you are flexible on colors/options. 1)Go to fightingchance.com Get Braggs kit on your car, maybe buy his book. ($34.00 and well worth it)This should help you before EOM. 2)Later go to library or Amazon (may be updated) and read the classic (1981)"Don't get taken every time" by Remar Sutton. Been in the business and it is the most accurate description I've read. Fun read too. Do this and you will know more than 99% of new car buyers out there. Do your studying and know how to buy a car for life.  --jjf
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Replying to: jfritsch (Aug 14, 2006 7:53 pm) msrp was 20230 but he stated I'll knock it to 19138+ fees(1428)so out the door was 20566. Tax in state is 6.25. I just wanted to see what they would offer. I knew I could get s-pricing. |
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Replying to: dc_driver (Jul 17, 2006 11:02 am) The bottom line is they quoted me 20,989.44 OTD. Here are the fees they listed: 18,500 or the car 199.00 for VIN etching (which i wanted for insurance purposes) 12.50 Waste tire fee 150 Registration 10 inspection 45 dealer fee Are there are hidden charges in there somewhere because this doesn't seem to add up? Could they have possibly added the finance charge from the bank to this maybe?
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