Last post on Nov 03, 2013 at 6:15 PM
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Mazda MAZDA3, Hatchback, Sedan
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#4686 of 4993 Re: Mazda 3 Owners: Problems & Solutions 
Dec 27, 2010 (7:45 am)
This issue in mazda 3 was because of electrical components
MAZDA IS RECALLING 25,400 MY 2010 MAZDA3 VEHICLES. A CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE ENGINE HARNESS AND THE HOUSING OF STARTER MOTOR MAY BE INSUFFICIENT. DUE TO THIS, THE COVERING OF THE HARNESS MAY BE DAMAGED THROUGH VIBRATION DURING OPERATION POSSIBLY CAUSING A SHORT-CIRCUIT BETWEEN CERTAIN HARNESS WIRES AND THE STARTER HOUSING. A SHORT-CIRCUIT CAN RESULT IN ENGINE CONTROL MALFUNCTION AND/OR POOR SHIFT QUALITY.
THE MAIN FUSE MAY BLOW OUT CAUSING THE ENGINE TO STALL AND INABILITY OF RESTART, INCREASING THE RISK OF A CRASH.
DEALERS WILL HAVE THE ENGINE HARNESS INSPECT AND ADD A PROTECTOR CLIP ON THE AFFECTED SECTION OF THE HARNESS. IF NECESSARY, THE HARNESS WILL BE REPAIRED. THIS SERVICE WILL BE PERFORMED FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN ON MAY 6, 2009. OWNERS MAY CONTACT MAZDA AT 1-800-222-5500.
#4687 of 4993 Re: Mazda 3 Owners: Problems & Solutions [anjy834u]
Dec 27, 2010 (9:58 am)
Geez, you really had to dig deep for this one. You responded to a seven year old post with information regarding a current year car. How do you figure that is even remotely relevant?
#4688 of 4993 mazda 3 driver door rattle
Jan 09, 2011 (6:32 am)
hi can anyone advise how to stop a very irritating door rattle on my mazda 3 drivers side. I am pretty sure its coming from the door but cant work out how to stop it
#4689 of 4993 2006 Mazda3 CEL problem! Help!
Jan 20, 2011 (10:29 am)
I have a 2006 Mazda3 for about 2 years, only 30,000 miles, recently, the CEL is on and off, not blinking, for many times. For example, it's on for 2 or 3 days and after start up, the light goes off and for another 10 days it's on again. In winter it happend more often, but in summer the light is always off. I check the CEL code is P0171, there is 4 possibilities for this code, (1) dirty/defective MAF sensor, (2) large vacuum leak, (3) fuel pressure low, (4) engine mechanical condition. I changed MAF sensor for a new one at meineke, and the tech double check the everything, but found nothing. Anyone has an idea about this problem? Thanks a lot!
#4690 of 4993 Re: 2006 Mazda3 CEL problem! Help! [bobmazda3]
Jan 20, 2011 (3:45 pm)
You need to find a real mechanic- not just some guy who throws parts at the problem. Mazda has a specific troubleshooting procedure for each fault code, and that procedure needs to be followed.
Mar 11, 2011 (3:34 pm)
My 2009 Mazda3 with only 12k miles - Brakes Squeaking/grinding when in Reverse and for the first km of driving. Brakes are very sensitive during this period. It usually occurs after car wash or rain/snow storm. After driving for 1 km or less it goes away. Iím led to believe Mazda has issued a service bulletins to correct this problem with caliper & brake pad replacement. My daughterís 2010 Mazda3 does not experience this problem. Anyone else with this problem and/or type of Dealership fixes under warrenty?
#4692 of 4993 2009 Mazda 3 auto trans
Mar 11, 2011 (6:42 pm)
I posted a message about dealer maintenance in another thread because they were trying to up sell me additional services(Engine Flush,Injector cleaning). They did say the trans fluid was dirty which it was. I took the 2.3 auto trans car with 19,000 miles to an independent shop and he flushed the trans with Valvoline MaxLife V-324. I don't think this fluid is designed for the Mazda 3. The Manual states ATF M-V I went to Valvoline website and I can't find any reference to Mazda 3 and that fluid. Can anyone enlighten me a bit here?
Mar 15, 2011 (6:30 pm)
My check engine light is on with error code P2004- Shutter valve stuck open. The dealer told me to replace the whole manifold (which didn't make sense to me) but I changed it anyway. After replacing it with a used part, the same code came back on. The dealer is telling me to replace the manifold because the one I put on is bad. What are the odds that both manifolds have the same exact shutter valve problem? Is this a part that should be recalled if it's consistently a problem? Since the shutter valve is just a plastic flap, should't the valve, hose, wire, or actuator that controls the flap need to be replaced, not the manifold itself?
#4694 of 4993 Replacement Rims for 2005 Mazda 3
Mar 17, 2011 (3:19 pm)
I have a rim that is corroding and needs to be replaced. I have checked some websites that sell 2005 Mazda 3 17" rims, but there seems to be 4 different options and I can't figure out which is the right choice as they all seem to be silver alloy 17" rims. Does anyone know how to determine the correct rim. I am wondering if I call the Mazda dealership if they can provide me a specific part number to determine the right choice. Thanks.
#4695 of 4993 Re: Replacement Rims for 2005 Mazda 3 [mekrain]
Mar 17, 2011 (10:01 pm)
"I have a rim that is corroding and needs to be replaced. I have checked some websites that sell 2005 Mazda 3 17" rims, but there seems to be 4 different options and I can't figure out which is the right choice as they all seem to be silver alloy 17" rims."
The 17" alloy wheel design and appearance was identical on 2004-2006 models! The only "possible" exception is on the 2005 sp23 sedan and 5-door, which are the same design but appear to have a slightly different finish. The reason I say "possible" is because I can't find any documented proof that the sp23 had a unique wheel finish, but most Mazda enthusiast sites agree that it had more of a satin-like finish. Unless your 2005 is one of those limited production Carbon Grey sp23 models, it's a moot point.
I'm not sure why you're seeing four different 17" wheels, but most sites list two 17" variants for 2004 thru 2006. They are identical in appearance but one is noted "Hitachi" and the other "Lio Fung" and they are PRICED the same! Hitachi and Lio Fung are the two suppliers than manufactured these wheels for Mazda. Whether a particular vehicle left the factory with wheels from Hitachi or wheels from Lio Fung is/was totally random!
For the purposes of wheel replacement and matching, they are interchangeable and it doesn't matter which you ones you choose! With that said, most enthusiast forums/sites suggest choosing the "Hitachi" if given the option. The Hitachi is made in Japan and the Lio Fung is made in China. The Lio Fung is "allegedly" of lower quality than the Hitachi, but there is no proof, just hearsay and opinions that seem to be based on the stereotype that a product made in China is inherently low quality.
I have a 2006 Mazda3 s 5-door (all U.S.-spec 5-doors had the 17" alloys in 2006...the only 's' model lacking them was the 's' Sport (or base) 4-door sedan, which had 5-spoke 16" alloys. Back in 2008, I ran off the right shoulder of the road to avoid a head-on collision with a Chevy Suburban. It was 3-4 feet over the double yellow line into my lane and I met it in a sharp curve. The car's amazing handling capabilities saved my life because I had less than 50 feet to maneuver out of the Suburban's path and we were both traveling as 45-50mph! No other car I've ever driven would have been able to swerve that quickly while still maintaining total control and stability! I have no doubt that my Mazda3 saved my life that day! =)
....To Be CONTINUED.,....