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Hatchbacks Mazda3 Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair
4532 messages, Last post on Nov 16, 2009 at 2:06 PM
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Mazda3 auto won't start in park because it doesn't know it is in park ie P light not on. Of course it is in park. I have to put it in neutral to start it. Can sometimes start in park if I wiggle the stick around enough to find the park "sweet spot". Is there an adjustment for this. I took apart the console and couldn't see anything obvious. Anybodt else with this type of problem. 2004 mazda3 auto
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My wife and I were test driving a 2009 Mazda 3s Touring tonight. This is how my experience went. The salesperson wanted us to do a test drive. The lot were they kept their inventory was about 2 miles from the dealership, the lot was secured. When we got there the salesperson brought with her a little battery jumper. When she got to the car we were supposed to drive she had to jump it, She said the cars sit to long and need to be jumped many times. Then we had to drive to a gas station with the car on empty so she could put in 10 bucks worth of gas. My wife who was driving the car was driving with the autostick in M instead of D (the selectors are so close together) I thought she had it in drive as well.The trans/engine was whinny all the way back to the dealership by the time we got there we could smell burning. The salesperson told us the burning smell was normal that it was from an oil coating on the engine from the manufacturer. I didn't believe this for a minute. I like the car and after my wifes debacle I drove the car in the proper gear and it drove nicely. The salesperson wanted us to take the car home for the night. We agreed but when we got back out to the lot the battery was low and the car would not start. She was going to jump it again. We left, but agreed to come back tomorrow. What a bad first experience with Mazda! Did my wife screw up the trans? If we actually bought the car would the trans later act up. What about the battery situation has anyone heard or experienced anything like that at a dealership? Am I crazy for still wanting to buy this car? Any and all advice would be appreciated...Thanks
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Replying to: crowheart (Mar 30, 2009 8:55 pm) Look on the door jamb for the manufacture date. It will tell you approximately how long the car has been sitting. If the battery is completly discharged, it will take a few long highway drives to charge it up completly, or the dealer should put it on a charger to fully charge. A typical lead acid car battery that has been discharged beyond the safety threshold will not charge ever again, since the PbSO4 pellets fall out of the Pb mesh. It will need to be replaced. Luckily, it will be covered by the warranty and will probably be done before delivery. As to trans, didn't the high revs alert anyone in the car that it was in the wrong gear? |
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| I have a 2006 Mazda 3s, with the 2.3 and a 5 spd. Its a great car! I think the whole thing sounds fishy, You are looking for a new car. You would expect problems with used ones. When I was looking there were a lot of dealers here in NJ. I would look for a new dealer with a quality car! | |
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Replying to: crowheart (Mar 30, 2009 8:55 pm) |
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Replying to: crowheart (Mar 30, 2009 8:55 pm) So, while the situation was less than ideal, the car was probably not faulty....That said, you should NEVER buy a car if you don't feel confident and secure in the purchase! Go drive another Mazda3 at a different dealership. Actually, you could drive the 2009 and 2010 models back-to-back. Hopefully, you'll have a much better experience. The only potential harm done to your test vehicle is driving the car at a constant speed/rpm for a prolonged period of time. During the first 250-500 miles (the "break-in" period), you should not drive at a constant speed and/or rpm for any extended period of time. I had a 200 mile trip back home when I purchased my '06 Mazda3 back in 12/05. It was all highway and I alternated driving speeed limit, 10mph above and 20mph above speed limit in 10 minute increments....probably overkill. For your peace of mind, DON'T buy the specific car that you test drove. Tell them you want a different one or go to a different dealer. |
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My Mazda developed shaking during braking at 18K miles. Brought it to the dealer - charged me $150 for resurfacing the front rotors. I used to have a 96 Protege and over the life of that car I had pads and rotors replaced more than once, but never did that car have its rotors warped to the point of shaking... Also, at 18.5K miles, while creeping in construction traffic on I-95 I suddenly heard a scratching/scraping sound and a lamp on the panel went off. Scared crepes out of me at first, but after a couple of seconds I realized it was power steering light. Power steering indeed stopped working. Pulled the owners manual and it suggested trying to restart the car. Thankfully, the traffic had come to a full stop so I did not even have to pull over. After restarting, the light went away and power steering was restored. The car has been good for the last week or so, but this was not the most encouraging experience of owning a car that is barely over a year old... |
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Replying to: nsbio1 (Apr 08, 2009 4:46 pm) Check under the car for any sign of damage. Once I ran over a speed bump a little too quickly and that bump damaged the underside of the car which became evident by a slow leak of the power steering fluid. You could also mention it the next time you bring the car in for service.
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Replying to: autonomous (Apr 15, 2009 1:59 pm) I did check the PS fluid and it has stayed at MAX all the time, so I do not think there is a leak. In my amateur opinion, this must have been an electrical and perhaps not unusual glitch in the system, since troubleshooting of this exact situation is even mentioned in the owner's manual... Hopefully, this will be a one-time occurrence.
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Replying to: nsbio1 (Apr 16, 2009 6:56 pm) Agreed. Happy trails! 
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