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Mazda3 Maintenance & Repair

4531 messages,  Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 5:40 PM

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What is this discussion about? Mazda MAZDA3, Hatchback, Sedan


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#4080 of 4531
Re: Cartridge cannisters... [jt120] by pmckay
Oct 16, 2007 (9:29 am)
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Replying to: jt120 (Aug 18, 2007 6:47 pm)

I did a first oil change on my Mazda3 5 door.
What is the trick to getting the 5-7 plastic screws/bolts out for the plastic pan? I ended up undoing the screws around the front bumper and bending the plastic down to access the drain and filter. What a pain! Can you help me?
Thanks
Pete
#4081 of 4531
when replace brake pads? by herrkaleu
Oct 23, 2007 (4:26 pm)
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I have a 2005 Mazda 3 5-door with MT. Driving is semi city in and around Madison/WI. 25,000 miles so far.
I put winter wheels on and saw that the pad still has some 3-4 mm over that metal-part (not sure about the name). should I think of a pad replacement soon? My driving involves engine braking, that should keep pad wear down. Are there any indicators that squeel when the pads are down? Is it safe to wait for the squeeling? What are typical mileages for pad replacement? I don't want to pay the shop to determine that (after all, they might be biased , but I don't want to save on the wrong end.
#4082 of 4531
Re: when replace brake pads? [herrkaleu] by mazdazoom
Oct 24, 2007 (3:44 am)
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Replying to: herrkaleu (Oct 23, 2007 4:26 pm)

I have a 2004 5 door with MT, the front brakes should have a "tattle-tale" and it will squeal when it is time to replace them, it is there by design and should be ok to wait. HOWEVER, I have noticed that on a lot of mazdas the rear brakes wear out first which is just wierd as most of your stopping power is up front. The rear brakes do not have a tattle-tale, so keep an eye on those. The mileage just depends on the car and the driver/driving style.
 
If you go to the dealer for an oil change or other service they should give you a walk around inspection where they also check the pad linings. They will indicate how bad they are which can help you if you trust them. Now it depends on the car but a good rule of thumb is if you are at 1/4" then change your pads, if you are less than that you could be on your way to damaging a rotor. Pads are pretty cheap and really easy to do yourself if you have a guide and some basic tools. So I say safety first and if they get close 1/4" or start to squeal, change them out, or take it to a shop to do it for you. Good Luck
#4083 of 4531
Brake wear [mazdazoom] by autonomous
Oct 24, 2007 (11:55 am)
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Replying to: mazdazoom (Oct 24, 2007 3:44 am)

If you go to the dealer for an oil change or other service they should give you a walk around inspection where they also check the pad linings. They will indicate how bad they are which can help you if you trust them.
 
Agreed. I have asked my dealer for this a couple of times and recorded it to keep track of the rate of brake wear. They do this visually which means it's a rough estimate; ideally it should be done with a tool like a micrometre to measure the pad and rotor thickness. You can also run your fingers against the rotor to see how much "lip" has been created by the brake wear.
 
I'm over 93,600 Km (about 60,000 miles) on the original brakes of my Protege5 and still wheeling along!
#4084 of 4531
Car Won't Start by roger341
Oct 25, 2007 (7:55 am)
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04 160hp engine-
 
Sounds strange, but ever since car was new, sometimes it won't re-start when turned off for a short time (i.e. under 15 mins or so).
 
No crank, nothing. I have to remove the key from the ring and then re-insert it. Car then starts immediately.
 
Any ideas? Anyone else notice this?
 
Also, with 20,000 miles, the tires need replacing. Any recommendations for tire brand?
#4085 of 4531
Re: Car Won't Start [roger341] by eoghan1
Nov 05, 2007 (6:53 pm)
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Replying to: roger341 (Oct 25, 2007 7:55 am)

I'll take two guesses. 1. You have a key with a bad or polluted chip. Take both keys back to the dealer for re programing or you may have to buy a new key. Do both keys fail in the same way? 2. You have a bad connection in the ignition switch.
#4086 of 4531
07 4-Dr wiper chattering by mkuchyt
Nov 17, 2007 (2:18 pm)
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Are there other people out there that have a problem with the passenger side wiper chattering? This was occurring with the OEM wipers and I just replaced them with BOSCH wipers that are supposed to be chatter resistant and they may even be worse. If people had this problem with the OEM and got new wipers and the problem when away, what kind did you buy?
 
Thanks.
#4087 of 4531
Rear Lug Stud - 2004 Mazda 3 by simsy9
Nov 27, 2007 (5:31 am)
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I have a 2004 Mazda 3, 2.3L, with manual transmission. The approximate mileage is 80,000.
 
Recently, due to mechanic error, I’ve had a lug stud break off. What needs to be done to replace the stud? Can I replace the stud without removing the bearing? If I do remove the bearing, is it pressed on? If so, are there special tools to reinstall it?
#4088 of 4531
Re: 07 4-Dr wiper chattering [mkuchyt] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Nov 27, 2007 (7:45 am)
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Replying to: mkuchyt (Nov 17, 2007 2:18 pm)

The blade is probably mis-aligned because the arm is twisted a bit. See if you can eyeball how the blade sits on the glass on both sides and see if you notice a difference in the angle. If you do, you can very gently rotate the arm to adjust the angle.
#4089 of 4531
Dead/Drained Battery by blatz
Nov 27, 2007 (2:53 pm)
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I brought home my 2007 MZ3 hatchback in December 2006. This past June I went out to get in the car in the morning for work and the battery was dead, no warning at all. The dealer replaced the battery with no hassle. Then in late August, the same thing happened. The dealer again replaced the battery. Then earlier this month, it happened again. This time the dealer diagnosed a bad "junction box" and replaced it after 5 days of diagnostics. This past monday, again the battery was dead. The dealer currently has the car and is diagnosing it again. I have contacted "Big Mazda" and have a file number, but can not move farther until the dealer finishes their diagnostics. Every time the battery has died, it starts hesitantly with cables, but it starts. Has anyone else experienced this?

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