Last post on May 06, 2013 at 12:20 AM
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Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust
A Place to Post A Question That Doesn't Need a Discussion--Only One Quick Answer!
#5600 of 5658 Re: 2003 chevrolet cavalier transmission [Mr_Shiftright]
Nov 16, 2012 (9:28 pm)
Thanks for the reply.
This morning when I went to park the car I had to keep moving the shifter up and down to try to get it in reverse since no one was around to help me push the car. After almost an hour of forcefully moving the shifter up and down it somehow pushed up to the reverse gear. It would not shift to park.
The brakes is fine according to the brake lights.
So as of Friday morning the car shifts to reverse, neutral, and drive.
#5601 of 5658 Re: 2003 chevrolet cavalier transmission [trinere]
Nov 25, 2012 (12:52 am)
Almost sounds like a linkage problem rather than a mechanical/electrical problem inside the transmission.
#5602 of 5658 Re: Got a Quick, Technical Question? [Mr_Shiftright]
Nov 26, 2012 (3:18 pm)
hello, first time on this forum, so im just going to ask away:
im trying to change into winter tyres. they are on steel wheels.
summer tyres were put on by dealer after a maintenance.
from the manual, the tightening torque for summer tyres' aluminium wheels should be "74 to 89 lbf·ft (100 to 120 N·m, 10 to 12 kgf·m)"
so I set the torque wrench at 85. which is NOTHING. I had to force way more to get the summer tyres' nuts loose. Then I set the wrench at 100, which is still quite easy to set loose.
So i'm wondering if all this is normal or is my wrench faulty. it is a new tool after all.
Or should I just use a regular wrench and tighten it to the max
#5603 of 5658 Re: Got a Quick, Technical Question? [llf3]
Nov 26, 2012 (3:28 pm)
85 ft-lbs should not feel like "NOTHING", IMO. If your torque wrench is ~18 inches long, you would still have to apply around 60 lbs of force to get to the 85 ft-lbs of torque. 60 lbs is not NOTHING, at least it's not to me!
#5604 of 5658 Re: Got a Quick, Technical Question? [srs_49]
Nov 26, 2012 (4:03 pm)
edit: sorry, my post should have been replied to llf3, the original poster with the question.
- also, where i said T bar, I meant the old fashioned push/pull of an X cross bar. They're the best unless one of your arms is a 22 incher and the other is only a 10.
I may have misunderstood your post and now can't see it to refer to as I type.
But it seems like you have used the torque wrench to 'loosen' the nuts. This is a very bad practice as it will throw (especially a click type) t wrench right outta calibration on first nut.
If the aluminum are rated as you said, I would use the same for steel wheels, assuming we are talking about an average sedan of 3500lb or so?
Then there is the potential debate of whether the rating is on dry or lubed threads. Usually these ratings are stated with a dry thread intention. I have been lubing my threads (but try to not get any nevrseize on the actual taper flange that seats the wheel) for 40 years with nary as issue or warped rotor. Others have warped them when it was out of my control, and hence why i never let anyone touch them. Generally speaking, lubed threads use a lighter ftlb torque. I use a T bar and i can feel the consistency between the staggers as I torque them up by hand. If mine are tested they are all virtually what I torque them to as 75ftlb. Never had an issue. I do check them twice over the winter and summer season and they seem to always hold consistent. YMMV since i do not know your skill using a T bar. One thing is probably for sure now tho...I'll bet you can use a T bar carefully acknowledging the force between them and be a lot closer than your present (unfortunately abused by accident) T wrench will do. Just don't have the wife or kids come out and talk to youy as you are manually torquing. If your wrench was a really good one, maybe consider investing to have it re-calibrated and never lend it out after. I also leave mine unweighted and always in the house or where ever it is most dry and the temperature is most consistent throughout the year. Definitely don't leave it in 120+¼ sunlight while you go in for lunch and a little squeeze with the honey before heading back out.
#5605 of 5658 Re: Got a Quick, Technical Question? [gimmestdtranny]
Nov 26, 2012 (4:59 pm)
I did not use the torque wrench to loose summer wheels. I used a breaker bar
I did not lube the threads..
the torque wrench is a click type, a relatively cheap one I got from canadian tires. I read a few articles about torque wrench online beforehand, and I'd think I am using it correctly. it just felt so easy to hear the "click".
to add some detail:
when i was taking off the summer set, I was on my knees, had to put my shoulder weight into it to get it loose. then with the torque wrench, I just relax, the ~18 in long t wrench did all the job.
#5606 of 5658 Scanner Recomendation needed
Dec 02, 2012 (10:57 pm)
I want to get a scanner for a used 2007 Toyota RAV4 I want to purchase.
Can someone recommend any in particular?
I want to scan really really deep and do a lot of DIY
#5607 of 5658 Re: Got a Quick, Technical Question? [llf3]
Dec 14, 2012 (1:47 am)
Well, the guy that put on your 'summer' tires probably used an air impact wrench which put who knows what torque on the nuts. That's why it took a lot to break them loose.
In general, most cast wheels (aluminum or chrome) call for 100 ft-pounds.
If your wheel is a basic steel wheel, I think it would be less, and 85 ft-lbs sounds about right.
#5608 of 5658 Re: Scanner Recomendation needed [toklar]
Dec 14, 2012 (1:51 am)
Well, I think a GM 'Tech II' runs about $2,000 and some even more.
I bought a basic code reader from somewhere (Amazon, Sears, ????) for about $40.
I think you need to do some research on what code structure your RAV4 needs. There are different codes for different autos. What you are asking is not a simple question.
#5609 of 5658 Bad Clutch Throwout Bearing
Dec 16, 2012 (10:26 pm)
My car is a 1988 Nissan 300 ZX 2+2, V6 (naturally aspirated), 5-speed manual, 198,640 miles. It has been well maintained and never driven in an abusive way. Problem: According to my mechanic and another one I've consulted, the throwout bearing has gone out. Upon doing a quick Google search I found the following description of the symptoms I've noticed...
"You depress the clutch pedal and hear a loud grinding, rattling, whirling noise. You ease off the clutch pedal, and the noise starts to dissipate."
The main difference is my car makes the grinding, whirring noise (more or less; and sometimes more, sometimes less) when the clutch is released and the car is moving rather than when it's depressed.
Of course 198,640 miles is a lot of miles, but I thought that manual transmissions usually last considerably longer if they're driven with care. Is mine the exception?
I replaced the original clutch at about 160,000 miles. The engine runs as though its got a lot of life left, and burns virtually no oil.
Although I'm going to dispose of this car, I'd welcome the comments of those who've had experience with manual transmissions that have failed because this puzzles me. I know that most automatics don't make it to 200,000 miles, but I expected a manual to live longer.