Last post on Dec 05, 2013 at 5:24 PM
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Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust
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#5580 of 5686 Re: Why sealed transmission? [jipster]
Aug 31, 2012 (3:40 am)
This has become the norm, I think.
Both our T&C and 135i have no dipstick. However, I have now changed the fluid on both at 50k miles. On the bimmer, there are drain and fill plugs. Unfortunately, to change the filter, you have to change the whole pan! On the chrysler, there is no drain. To get the fluid out, you do have to drop the pan. There is no replaceable filter on this one, though. There is, however, a fill hole that is suspiciously shaped like a dipstick tube.
In both cases, I measured the fluid I removed and (at least attempted to) replaced with like amount. I was not able to get the same amount of fluid back into the bimmer's trans, which gives me a small worry.
What is really troubling in all of this, however, is the manufacturers' attitudes. I called a dealership in each case. Both were adamant that you don't touch the fluid... it is lifetime. Oh really? Then why does ZF, you know, that little company that actually MADE the bimmer's transmission, state you should change the fluid and filter every 50k?!! So bolting this trans into a car with the propeller badge magically changes its longevity?! Or does it have to do with the fact that a bimmer warranty is up at 50k? Hmmmm...
I didn't really bother much with the chrysler dealer. I had had it with them anyway. But I did badger the bimmer dealer a bit more. I questioned why, if it is lifetime and they won't change it, even at my request, they sell the fluid and filter at their parts counter. After some hemming and hawing, they finally agreed that they COULD change it, but it would cost me AT LEAST $800.
I did it myself for $200.
#5581 of 5686 Re: 2004 Chevrolet Suburban [bveque]
Aug 31, 2012 (7:03 pm)
Sep 20, 2012 (2:30 pm)
will post this here, in case anyone has suggestions.
my son has a 2000 Acura TL with him at college. 170K, but runs great. Until last weekend. Driving along, starts to lose electric (dash getting wonky, warning lights coming n (ABS/TCS etc.). runs rough, and dies. Gets a jump, makes it a few blocks, ties again. Gets towed to Honda dealer, they can't even jump. Put a new battery in, fires right up. They test the alternator, and say it is charging, so good to go.
2 days later, after a few mile drive to the store, starts doing the exact same thing, then totally dies and won't restart. almost made it to the dealer (1/2 mile away!), so needs another tow.
well, I talk to them today (he left it last night and they say it started right up, and is running fine. Battery was charged, and alternator is putting out. So they were driving it around the lot, trying to get it to act up, but nothing. Said they looked at the obvious stuff (the grounds they could see, loose cables I assume) and nothing. No fault codes stored either.
so , it does not seem to be any of the obvious culprits, and of course these intermittent issues can be nasty to track down, but if anyone has ideas on out of the box items to look at, it would be appreciated.
#5583 of 5686 Re: dying car [stickguy]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Sep 20, 2012 (6:25 pm)
faulty voltage regulator?
#5584 of 5686 Re: dying car [Mr_Shiftright]
Sep 20, 2012 (6:40 pm)
cars still have voltage regulators? I remember changing one on a 1985 horizon. though I am sure if they still exist, they are a whole lot more expensive and complicated!
hopefully, that is something logical for them to check (assuming you easily can).
#5585 of 5686 Re: dying car [stickguy]
Sep 21, 2012 (3:33 am)
Still sound to me like it might be the alternator. The car runs fine for a day or day when the battery is new, right? And then you start to lose electrical power?
When it dies, were you able to put it on a charger and see if recharging the battery helps?
We had an '85 Caprice wagon. I replaced the alternator belt on it one day. After doing that, the car would run fine for a day or two or three, then start to die from losing electrical power (dash would dim, headlights would dim, etc). Charge up the battery again and all would be fine for a day or so. Anyway, I discovered that the alternator belt was the wrong style, and was slipping on the alternator pulley (even though there was no telltale squeal). So the car was essentially running off the battery alone, which of course would discharge over time. Replacing the belt solved the problem.
#5586 of 5686 Re: dying car [srs_49]
Sep 21, 2012 (5:07 am)
It did (per the dealer) turn out to be a dying alternator that would work sometimes. Finally failed while they had the car. so, cross fingers that the new one will cure the problem.
#5587 of 5686 Re: dying car [stickguy]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Sep 21, 2012 (7:26 am)
Well a regulator is listed for the car---it might be built into the alternator however.
#5589 of 5686 Electrical, or something more obvious?
Oct 08, 2012 (7:45 pm)
2004 Ford Escape.
126k give or take....
Headlights (low&high) and odometer back lighting flicker rapidly-very noticably, like mild strobbing. NOT like when they dim&brighten when idling. Battery is new, as well as alternator&starter (auto shop tested&all GOOD!...told me cars just act "funny" sometimes-it's been a month&no change at all!!). It has become VERY noticable while driving (begins within 5 mins of starting the truck). Any ideas are much appreciated, as I'm rather frustrated with the auto shop.....