Last post on May 06, 2013 at 12:20 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair
What is this discussion about?
Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust
A Place to Post A Question That Doesn't Need a Discussion--Only One Quick Answer!
#5574 of 5658 Re: 1994 Chrysler Concorde leaking [jerry183]
Aug 02, 2012 (1:08 pm)
Jerry, you don't own a floor jack and you are considering repairing this yourself? That seems like it might be a bad idea.
I guess if you're just asking so that you already have a second opinion before the mechanic has a look, that is more reasonable.
#5575 of 5658 Re: 1994 Chrysler Concorde leaking [jerry183]
Aug 02, 2012 (1:11 pm)
I suggest a set of ramps for the car. I made my own out of 2x10s that I had. I cut the ends at a 45 degree angle and made the lengths so there was about 2 inches of flat then the next board ends. Top is about 14 inches long and I have 5 layers, I believe, nailed together. DRive up on that and I can crawl under anywhere to get a look safely.
Otherwise be sure to use jackstands carefully placed for support. I just read about someone dying under his car using a jack that let go.
#5576 of 5658 Re: 1994 Chrysler Concorde leaking [colin_l]
Aug 03, 2012 (8:25 pm)
Well frankly colin-was thinking about doing it myself however upon further review that task is way over my head "pun intended!"
But I had just finished putting a radiator in my other sons infiniti and figured this would be a piece of cake. However the infiniti had lots of clearance underneath and of course access under the hood but the Concourse is really low to the ground and no chance even considering it.
But thanks for making me think about it and everyones input.
I have limited space in garage for ramps or much else and this DIY not gonna work for me this time but thanks again to all!
"Jerry, you don't own a floor jack and you are considering repairing this yourself? That seems like it might be a bad idea."
"I guess if you're just asking so that you already have a second opinion before the mechanic has a look, that is more reasonable."
#5577 of 5658 2004 Chevrolet Suburban
Aug 20, 2012 (7:33 pm)
Recently I have been experiencing starting issues with my 04. In the morning when it is cold outside, the truck absolutely will not start. It will crank but wont fire. If I leave the truck for a few hours, and the tempurature comes up outside, the truck will fire right up.
Do you possibly know what the issue is here, or maybe can guide me in the right direction?
Thanks for any and all help.
#5578 of 5658 Why sealed transmission?
Aug 30, 2012 (7:34 pm)
Just bought a new Hyundai Veracruz. Has a sealed transmission, no dipstick. You always hear about checking your level and fluid condition with trans oil, why a closed unit?
Owners manual says no need to change if used under normal conditions, change at 30k miles if used in severe conditions. First of all, in reading owners manual, seems if only a very small percentage of vehicles would fall under normal conditions. Everyone drives in either hot or cold weather at some point. Maybe more people screw up their trans by checking with dirty rags, too often, or fluid flushes. Any thoughts?
#5579 of 5658 Re: Why sealed transmission? [jipster]
Aug 31, 2012 (12:32 am)
With the 10 year/ 100K mile warranty I wouldn't worry about it. I'd check the details of the warranty first though.
#5580 of 5658 Re: Why sealed transmission? [jipster]
Aug 31, 2012 (4:40 am)
This has become the norm, I think.
Both our T&C and 135i have no dipstick. However, I have now changed the fluid on both at 50k miles. On the bimmer, there are drain and fill plugs. Unfortunately, to change the filter, you have to change the whole pan! On the chrysler, there is no drain. To get the fluid out, you do have to drop the pan. There is no replaceable filter on this one, though. There is, however, a fill hole that is suspiciously shaped like a dipstick tube.
In both cases, I measured the fluid I removed and (at least attempted to) replaced with like amount. I was not able to get the same amount of fluid back into the bimmer's trans, which gives me a small worry.
What is really troubling in all of this, however, is the manufacturers' attitudes. I called a dealership in each case. Both were adamant that you don't touch the fluid... it is lifetime. Oh really? Then why does ZF, you know, that little company that actually MADE the bimmer's transmission, state you should change the fluid and filter every 50k?!! So bolting this trans into a car with the propeller badge magically changes its longevity?! Or does it have to do with the fact that a bimmer warranty is up at 50k? Hmmmm...
I didn't really bother much with the chrysler dealer. I had had it with them anyway. But I did badger the bimmer dealer a bit more. I questioned why, if it is lifetime and they won't change it, even at my request, they sell the fluid and filter at their parts counter. After some hemming and hawing, they finally agreed that they COULD change it, but it would cost me AT LEAST $800.
I did it myself for $200.
#5581 of 5658 Re: 2004 Chevrolet Suburban [bveque]
Aug 31, 2012 (8:03 pm)
Sep 20, 2012 (3:30 pm)
will post this here, in case anyone has suggestions.
my son has a 2000 Acura TL with him at college. 170K, but runs great. Until last weekend. Driving along, starts to lose electric (dash getting wonky, warning lights coming n (ABS/TCS etc.). runs rough, and dies. Gets a jump, makes it a few blocks, ties again. Gets towed to Honda dealer, they can't even jump. Put a new battery in, fires right up. They test the alternator, and say it is charging, so good to go.
2 days later, after a few mile drive to the store, starts doing the exact same thing, then totally dies and won't restart. almost made it to the dealer (1/2 mile away!), so needs another tow.
well, I talk to them today (he left it last night and they say it started right up, and is running fine. Battery was charged, and alternator is putting out. So they were driving it around the lot, trying to get it to act up, but nothing. Said they looked at the obvious stuff (the grounds they could see, loose cables I assume) and nothing. No fault codes stored either.
so , it does not seem to be any of the obvious culprits, and of course these intermittent issues can be nasty to track down, but if anyone has ideas on out of the box items to look at, it would be appreciated.
#5583 of 5658 Re: dying car [stickguy]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Sep 20, 2012 (7:25 pm)
faulty voltage regulator?