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5658 messages,  Last post on May 06, 2013 at 12:20 AM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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Messages Page 556 of 567

#5547 of 5658 Brakes Grinding by bmw__m5

Jun 14, 2012 (1:37 pm)

I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey. Last summer I got new brake pads because the previous ones where grinding. About 2,000mi. after the brake job, I took a trip up to White Mountains. While I was driving I barely touched the brake pedal and just used engine braking to hold my speed. But I lent the car to a friend, whom I doubt practiced the same driving technique, and after it was returned it was immediately apparent that there was an issue. The brakes grind quite a bit especially when cold. From my research I concluded that they where glazed and that with time, the glazed portion should wear off. A year and 25,000mi. later they still grinding. I had them inspected at the place I purchased them and they said that there was dirt on them that hey cleaned off, but otherwise they where fine. Is there anything I can do to fix it short of replacing the pads? Will (or has it) damaged the rotor? The Odyssey (and most other Honda Products) are famous for there inadequate brakes, 11.7in front discs on a car that weighs 4,600lbs. unloaded. Are there any brake pads that can help prevent glazing that fit this car? I have had the same issue plus rotor warping on all other Honda products I've owned (2001 Aucra MDX, 2003 MDX, 2007 Odyssey) and I do not consider myself a brake rider. Luckily, this one hasn't warped, I believe the dealer over tightened the lug nuts on my previous cars by 60-70 lbs-ft, a torque wrench prevented warping on this Odyssey.

#5549 of 5658 Re: Ideas why my truck doesn't start? [byrn] by zaken1

Jun 15, 2012 (9:20 pm)

Replying to: byrn (Jun 08, 2012 7:48 am)
Before even buying a compression gauge (assuming you already have a spark plug socket) pull all the plugs and inspect them in sunlight or under a bright light. If the plug center insulators are all wet; there probably is a head gasket leak that is allowing coolant into the cylinders, and is wetting the plugs. if you crank the starter with the plugs out, and coolant shoots out of the spark plug openings; the head gasket is GONE. The head may also be cracked or warped; so if the head is pulled; it should be checked for both cracks and warpage by a competent machine shop.
 
A screw in type gauge is much easier to use than a push in gauge. Remove all the spark plugs and disconnect one of the primary wires from the ignition coil before running the compression test. Crank the motor through four compression strokes on each cylinder (the needle will jump on each compression stroke), and write down each reading. The compression pressure should be somewhere between 150 and 180 psi in each cylinder. There should be less than 15% difference between the lowest and highest readings. If the compression is less than 125 psi on all cylinders; the timing belt or chain has jumped out of synch or broken. If most cylinders have good pressure; but one or two adjacent cylinders read a lot lower than the rest; there is a bad head gasket. Just one low compression cylinder could mean either a burned or stuck valve in that cylinder. Ongoing substantial coolant loss or coolant in the oil or oil in the radiator indicate a head gasket problem.
 
A head gasket leak can also be confirmed by buying a hand pump type cooling system pressure tester that fits the size radiator filler opening used on your truck; filling the radiator to the top, inserting the gauge into the radiator filler neck, and pumping 14 psi pressure up on the gauge. If the pressure drops by 5 psi or more in the first minute; there is a severe coolant leak. If there is no sign or an external leak; it is most likely being lost through the head or head gasket.
 
The previous heating problems which led to the thermostat removal; along with the heating problems experienced after the thermostat was installed; all scream "bad head gasket".

#5551 of 5658 85 octane by steve_ HOST

Jun 19, 2012 (4:23 pm)

A journalist would like to speak to someone who fuels up with 85 octane and has experienced engine issues or a weaker performance at lower elevations because of it. If you use or have used 85 octane, and would like to share your story with a reporter, please send your daytime contact info to predmunds.com no later than Wednesday, June 20 at 2 p.m. Pacific/5 p.m. Eastern.

#5553 of 5658 94 Acura Integra by herc76

Jun 26, 2012 (11:10 am)

Hello,
 
I have been out of the country for about a year. So while I was gone my Integra has been sitting without being driven. What are the issues that I need to resolve before I can start driving it again?

#5554 of 5658 Re: 94 Acura Integra [herc76] by colin_l

Jun 26, 2012 (11:14 am)

Replying to: herc76 (Jun 26, 2012 11:10 am)
Drain the gas tank and replace the battery. Air up the tires. Then try to start it.
 
If it starts, go to gas station (I'm assuming you will put in only 1-2 gallons from a container) and fill 'er up and put in a bottle of Techron. Drive home and let the engine cool somewhat, then change the oil and filter.
 
Viola! Ready to drive.

#5555 of 5658 Re: 94 Acura Integra [colin_l] by herc76

Jun 26, 2012 (11:18 am)

Replying to: colin_l (Jun 26, 2012 11:14 am)
I was told there is a chance that the fluids would need to be replaced. Is that true?
 
Thanks

#5556 of 5658 Re: 94 Acura Integra [herc76] by colin_l

Jun 26, 2012 (11:49 am)

Replying to: herc76 (Jun 26, 2012 11:18 am)
Are you planning to do this work yourself, or have a shop do it?
 
I advised you to drain and refill the gas and engine oil. The other fluids in the vehicle such as transmission fluid, engine coolant and differential oil will be fine.

Messages Page 556 of 567

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