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4968 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 4:49 PM
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I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima SE Automatic with 145K miles. It had 68K miles when I bought it in '99 and has provided near flawless service since. Last week I noticed that the tachometer showed 2500 rpm at highway speeds (75+ mph) and the shift was in D and the OD was on. It ran at the higher-than-normal revs for over 100 miles and later dropped to the normal 1800 rpm. Problem has not recurred. Question: Is it time to flush and change Transmission fluid? Or, does the Maxima have a sealed unit that does not require the fluid replaced? If yes, What is the recommended frequency? I have not done an ATF changeout in the last 5 years. Would appreciate any feedback / similar experience. |
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My '95 Mazda was in the shop last week for a cooling system check (had been running a little warm), and the mechanic left the radiator cap on "half cocked" when he was done. Drove the car about 150 miles, then it suddenly overheated - warped heads, blown head gaskets, leaking radiator, O2 sensors ruined. Mechanic says not his fault - car was running warm previously. I say has never gotten this hot (before or since), so loose radiator cap is prime suspect. Can anyone confirm or deny either argument? Thanks, AET |
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Argument somewhat in your favor, but without full knowledge of the situation, don't quote me. A pressurized cooling system has a higher boiling point than a non-pressurized system. Something like 2 lbs pressure raises boiling point 1 degree (did I get that right, guys?). So yes, a cooling system with relieved pressure would boil over sooner than one with pressure. However, if your car had a pre-existing condition, it could be argued that this was an inevitable result regardless of cap on or off. Were I Solomon the Great, I would decree that the mechanic accept a partial responsibility and give you a break on parts or labor, without admitting any "guilt". |
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| Hi, I bought a 97 prelude with the auto tran in sept. It is a great car...the only thing that I notice is when I start to accelerate from stop I sometimes hear a little creaking noise from the front passenger side wheel area. Its just a brief noise - like 1/4 sec. I only hear this when the temperature is below 32F. If I go for a long drive it will then go away when I accelerate. The car only has 51,700km (32,300 miles)on it and the brakes were serviced 6000km ago. Could it be just stiffness in that shock since it seems to occur below freezing? Thanks. | |
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| Yeah, probably the shock mount is protesting a bit. If you don't hear anything when it's warmed up, or when you hit a hard bump, I wouldn't worry about it. Perhaps when you next get new tires and a wheel alignment, you can have the shock mounts looked at, or just replace them next time you do struts---about 70K-80K miles would be a good time. | |
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I just purchased a 2004 Ford Explorer XLS 4x4, and it's equipped with the tire pressure monitoring system, I know sensors in the factory wheels transmit continual readings to a control module on board. I want to use aftermarket wheels and tires for winter/snow use and I need to know what conflicts I'll have to deal with when not using factory wheels (if that can be done). It seems to me that with the sensors (inside the wheels) transmitting a signal, warning lights will be activated and drivability problems may crop up without these readings. Can you explain if I can do this or not? |
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Hey What up I have a 1986 Buick Riviera, and it has a Graphic Control Center. The thing is that the radio went bad on it, and I want to put a cd player I have in the car. I can't find where the radio is. IF any one can help me out it would be awesome thanks. Greg |
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My power steeering pump works fine, but makes a whiny sound. Someone suggested I add a little "hi-tac" (sp?) to the fluid to quiet it. Anyone heard of this stuff and/or if it or any additive can quiet the pump? |
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Ask over at www.crutchfield.com, I've had success with them.
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Replying to: kkollwitz (Jan 10, 2004 8:44 pm)
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