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4968 messages, Last post on Dec 06, 2009 at 4:49 PM
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A Place to Post A Question That Doesn't Need a Discussion--Only One Quick Answer!
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Replying to: maverick7wi (Oct 28, 2008 9:24 am) Total pain in the butt...I want to figure out who this company is and how to get a hold of them and how to deactivate this system from my car...all I know about the company is this ID number and the name identity...I googled it all night and all I came up with is your post about this and the thing for sale on E-Bay...this thing sucks anyone with help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks! I have an "Identity" anti-theft system installed on my 2000 Toyota Tundra. The previous owner installed it. I have brought it to two different Alarm/Car Radio shops and they both claimed I do not have an anti theft system installed. They looked in the ignition area, behind the radio and couldnt find anything. This system utilizes a keyfob. I push a button when it wont start and what do you know, it starts. It does this intermittently. The FCC ID is: QY7ADM625 I have looked on the internet and cannot find the company who made this particular device. Any help disabling this system would be greatly appreciated. I dont have to worry about my truck being stolen in North Dakota. |
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I have a 1998 DS, the oil light came on last winter, when it happened the car shuttered a little and never did it again (it was also 20 below wind chills. I checked the oil and it was were it was when I had the oil changed 4-5 qts. The night this happened I let the car sit for about 1-2 hours check all the fluids, nothing was low and started again..no light at first, then after 25 miles the light came on again. Since then I've had it put on a hand held computer coder and it came up nothing.. no codes at all. This kept going on (after 25 miles the oil light came on) so I had to leave it close to home, in the mean time someone else used it almost daily M-F only driving 6 miles a day. After about 3-4 months of this the light just stayed on. I was told it might just be the dummy light, and I'm thinking it might be the pump. Any suggestions?????? I want to find out and either get it fixed or get rid of it. Ivy
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Replying to: ivyn (Oct 01, 2009 8:53 pm) One thought, back in 1977 I bought a '66 Plymouth Valiant with the slant six from a friend of my parents. It was a real rust bucket, but it was my first car and cost $75! When the engine was warm and the air temperature hot, the oil light would come on occasionally at idle. The guy I bought it from said he had the pump output or pressure checked, and it was OK. I later heard that when the oil is hot and thins the pressure may be lower. If you live in a cold climate and are using 5W-20 oil, maybe ths is a problem as the engine warms? So, I guess you need to find out if the pump is working correctly, and if the sending unit is working correctly. In either case, I wouldn't go far and I'd star building up my credit rating and savings account, if possible! I don't think a 1998 car is going to store many codes at all, and whatever it might store is probably just related to sensors, as opposed to mechanical problems. |
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Replying to: ivyn (Oct 01, 2009 8:53 pm) The light goes on (usually) when oil pressure is about 5 lb PSI or less. That's not much oil pressure. The only sure way to know would be to screw in an analog gauge that actually reads in numbers. If that gauge shows 5 psi or less, then you would have to drop the pan and check the oil pump for wear, the oil pump screen for clogging, the oil pump pickup tube for damage or being loose (creating suction of air) or.....bad engine bearings. Keep in mind that an oil pump does not CREATE oil pressure---the bearings do that. The pump merely sets the flow. |
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Oil light on really means STOP NOW, as soon as it is safe to do so, and call a tow truck....or take a roll of the dice and drive home....very risky. Some automakers used to alarm the oil pressure light---I wish they'd all do that. |
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Hi experts, My truck is a 1997 Silverado 4X4 ext cab, 125 000km. Recently, I got a noise coming out from the front wheel train. Because I knew the right front wheel bearing was due to replaced (because the anti-lock system was not working anymore), I brought it to the garage and the wheel bearing was replaced. I also decided to have all the wheel bearings replaced. So, 4 new wheel bearings and the noise is still there, more noticeable while steering to the left. When I steer the wheel to the right side, the noise goes off. I can feel the vibration the noise makes (sounds like: "whoam-whoam-whoam") in the truck floor. The garage checked for a defective motor support but no luck. The universal join has also been replaced a few months ago. Edit: still having the noise with new tires. Any clue? Thanks.
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Replying to: silverado9000 (Oct 07, 2009 2:05 pm) |
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Replying to: silverado9000 (Oct 07, 2009 2:05 pm) |
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When an auto product is describing dimension, ( or any product, really) like say a roof cargo pod, and they say for example 30 X 20 X 10, is that *always* L X W X H ??
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