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4967 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 8:25 PM
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Replying to: drdonrs (Aug 12, 2009 5:34 pm) |
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Replying to: drdonrs (Aug 12, 2009 5:34 pm) If there is any warranty left, in order to protect the warranty, I would change the fluid. But I do think a 30,000 mile/24 month tranny fluid change is awfully short period. Unless - Is the the period from your owner's manual's service section, or is this a quoted period from your dealer? You do know they lie to you, right? Dealers wanting to do much shorter maintenance periods than called for in the manual is a well known way to move money from your pocket to theirs. |
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My car has a 10 year 100,000 mi powertrain warranty. The period specified is in the owners manual. The service writer is someone who I have trusted from a former dealer, that closed. He agreed that it was very low mileage, but in order to protect my warranty, just in case, it should be done. One other thing, he indicated that fluids like ATF fluid can breakdown over a long period, which in this case is 3 1/2 years.
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Replying to: drdonrs (Aug 13, 2009 4:48 am)
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Replying to: burdawg (Aug 13, 2009 7:05 am) |
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Replying to: drdonrs (Aug 13, 2009 4:48 am) - Go buy ATF and 9 quart drain pan. - Remove drain plug. - Wait a while. - Install drain plug. - Pour in 4 quarts and look at dipstick, then add 1 quart at a time until full. - Put receipt in owner's manual. Cost: $25 or less |
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Hi, i recently purchased a 2009 Chevrolet Equinox and i didn't think to get mudflaps. Are they a good idea or just a waste of money (any pro's or cons would be great)?? The Suv stays mainly on paved roads but i do drive on a gravel driveway at work 5 days a week. As for the winter time it is usually snowy on the roads here at least 6-7 months of the year. My last question is, are they easy to install yourself?
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Replying to: carstryke (Aug 13, 2009 10:57 pm) They are easy to install as Directions come with them. At most, you might need to use an electric drill, screwdriver, or other simple tool. |
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1992 Toyota Previa (AT 250 000 km) Belt squeal? I've had a very high pitched noise that is perhaps belt noise, from the belt on the AC compressor pulley. It has been there a year and only the last month it's got a little louder.It's a similar type of noise to a very common one we've all heard - from 'power steering' when you turn the steering wheel right to the maximum full lock - but the noise stops as soon as you back the wheel off an inch. BTW, is THAT noise caused by belt stress? The belt in my van on the AC compressor pulley looks OK (I replaced it about 6 years and 80 000km ago) but is perhaps just slightly less tight than it should be. But another thing - when I press on the belt between the pulleys, it squeaks loudly like rubber on metal - although the adjacent belt (running the alternator and power steering pump) makes no noise at all when pressed between the pulleys... is this squeaking symptomatic of a belt that's wearing out or too loose?
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Hi, thanks for reading. My 2001 Pontiac Montana has a parasitic drain. It will only start with a jump from another car (but does run once started). The battery is under a year old and tests good. With the positive battery cable connected only, I can measure 12.7V from the unconnected negative battery terminal to any frame bolt. I have eliminated the tail light assemblies. The alternator is good. I individually pulled every fuse and relay in the access box under the hood and the frame tested hot every time. If I disconnect the battery cable from the starter motor assembly AND the positive cable from the fuse box, the frame goes cold. Reconnecting either cable bring the frame hot again (12.7V). Do I have two shorts? Should I pull the starter and take it in for testing? Thanks
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