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4944 messages, Last post on Oct 31, 2009 at 12:04 PM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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#4831 of 4944 Re: Please help. Interior lights not on...unless I'm pushing it continuously. [colacar] by kiawah Jun 11, 2009 (6:06 pm)
Replying to: colacar (Jun 11, 2009 5:59 pm) Take it apart, and figure out what is bent (or broke), that it doesn't work correctly. You've done the hard part, figuring out what the failing component is.
#4832 of 4944 Re: Please help. Interior lights not on...unless I'm pushing it continuously. [colacar] by euphonium Jun 11, 2009 (6:49 pm)
Replying to: colacar (Jun 11, 2009 5:59 pm) First time I had your light problem - it was the switch that needed adjustment - on a '39 Chev 4 door. It would slide up and down to turn on and off. The contacts just needed adjustment, bending. Perhaps the more expensive "Bodies by Fisher" had a 3 way to include door openings.
#4833 of 4944 Re: Please help. Interior lights not on...unless I'm pushing it continuously. [colacar] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Jun 11, 2009 (6:50 pm)
Replying to: colacar (Jun 11, 2009 5:59 pm) You might be able to pop the lens off and clean the contacts. You'll see how the switch works when you open it up. Sometimes you can bend the contacts to make a firmer contact with the switch.
#4834 of 4944 Trouble with my 98 grand cherokee 4.0 litre by eric784254 Jun 22, 2009 (10:47 am)
1998 jeep grand cherokee, 4.0 litre inline 6 cylinder, automatic tranny, 160k miles. Hesitation when stepping on gas (go) pedal. Replaced aic motor & ran it 40mph a distance of 5 miles & greater for a few days to let the computer reset to factory settings. Also replaced the map sensor,checked for vacuum leaks, replaced the air charge sensor, cleaned throttle body-top to bottom, checked the pcv valve assembly, & egr valve assembly. Checked plugs & plug gap, wires , cap, & button. Looks like its in good condition. Bought a new set of wires, plugs, cap & button, not sure if that's the problem. It sounds like it backfires a little throgh the throttle body. Was looking my haynes manual & it states that you CANNOT adjust the timing through the distributer because of the camshaft position sensor. No check engine light on either. I don't hear any vacuum leaks all. HELP!! Replies to this message: euphonium (Jun 22, 2009 8:41 pm)
#4835 of 4944 Re: Trouble with my 98 grand cherokee 4.0 litre [eric784254] by euphonium Jun 22, 2009 (8:41 pm)
Replying to: eric784254 (Jun 22, 2009 10:47 am) Is there a "20 Second Delay" valve between the vacuum advance and the carb port? If so, delete it by installing a new hose without it.
#4836 of 4944 Why men don't write advice columns by euphonium Jun 23, 2009 (3:28 pm)
I hope you can help me here. The other day, I set off for work leaving my husband in the house watching the TV as usual. I hadn't driven more than a mile down the road when the engine conked out and the car shuddered to a halt. I walked back home to get my husband's help. When I got home I couldn't believe my eyes. He was in our bedroom with the neighbor's daughter. I am 41, my husband is 44, and the neighbor's daughter is 22. We have been married for ten years. When I confronted him, he broke down and admitted that they had been having an affair for the past six months. I told him to stop or I would leave him. He was let go from his job eight months ago and he says he has been feeling increasingly depressed and worthless. I love him very much, but ever since I gave him the ultimatum he has become increasingly distant. He won't go to counseling and I'm afraid I can't get through to him anymore. Can you please help? Sincerely, Susan Dear Susan: A car stalling after being driven a short distance can be caused by a variety of faults with the engine. Start by checking that there is no debris in the fuel line. If it is clear, check the vacuum pipes and hoses on the intake manifold and also check all grounding wires. If none of these approaches solves the problem, it could be that the fuel pump itself is faulty, causing low delivery pressure to the injectors. I hope this helps Sincerely,
#4837 of 4944 95 camry differential fluid change question by toyotaman9 Jun 25, 2009 (4:22 pm)
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry 3.0 V6 with auto transmission. I want to change the differential and transmission fluids but do not know if there is a separate reservoir and drain plug for the differential fluid . If i do a transmission fluid flush am I also flushing and refilling the differential? Thank you Replies to this message: vcheng (Jun 26, 2009 3:43 am)
#4838 of 4944 Re: 95 camry differential fluid change question [toyotaman9] by vcheng Jun 26, 2009 (3:43 am)
Replying to: toyotaman9 (Jun 25, 2009 4:22 pm) I believe that the transmission and differential in that model of Camry have separate drains (10mm Allen) but the differential fills through the transmission, i.e. drain separately, and fill through the transmission dipstick for both until the level is correct. If you drain or flush the transmission only, the differential oil does not get changed, since it remains full of the old oil and will not accept new oil from the transmission unless it has been drained prior.
#4839 of 4944 bypass key by pbrower Jul 04, 2009 (4:15 pm)
can you bypass the chip in the ignition switch in a 1996 monte carlo Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Jul 05, 2009 4:31 am) imidazol97 (Jul 05, 2009 2:32 pm)
#4840 of 4944 Re: bypass key [pbrower] by imidazol97 Jul 05, 2009 (4:31 am)
Replying to: pbrower (Jul 04, 2009 4:15 pm) There are several articles about VATS and bypassing. Resistors are wired into the two wires at the bottom of the steering column connector that replace the circuit up to the steering wheel and lock cylinder. Resistors from RAdio Shack in series or alarm shops bypass this regularly and they get packages of resistors of the right values they use. Why do you think there's a problem with your VATS?