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4944 messages, Last post on Oct 31, 2009 at 12:04 PM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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#4780 of 4944 CVT transmissions. by jipster Apr 08, 2009 (3:52 am)
I guess they've been out for about 5 years now. Any idea on reliability compared to a regular auto. trans? Are the things rebuilt, overhauled, or just replaced when they breakdown? Cost to rebuild as opposed to a reg. auto trans?
#4781 of 4944 Re: FJ40 Vin Number Search [Mr_Shiftright] by wsome001 Apr 08, 2009 (12:29 pm)
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 07, 2009 1:45 pm) Well, I have had this vehicle about 8 years, and had it registered in Ca before, only last time, they didn't care about the missing VIN. The VIN that was welded over ocurred when a six inch lift was installed and a large spring leaf bracket was installed. The bracket is on top of most of the VIN, although you can still see some of it. It's possible that this vehicle has a shady past, I wouldn't know. I have the title, and I didn't think of VIN numbers back then, I was barely an adult at the time and didn't know anything. What does it mean to have it "bonded?" How do I do that? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Apr 08, 2009 2:33 pm)
#4782 of 4944 Re: FJ40 Vin Number Search [wsome001] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Apr 08, 2009 (2:33 pm)
Replying to: wsome001 (Apr 08, 2009 12:29 pm) Well if you can see part of the VIN, that should be enough for the inspector. Depends on how much is visible. Why don't you call California CHP and ask them? They often do these inspections and they know the rules. You can call anonymously on their information line. Bonding means you take out a bond for the value of the vehicle that guarantees the vehicle is not stolen. I'm kind of surprised they are hassling you if you have the old title. Sometimes one hand at DMV doesn't know what the other hand is doing or saying.
#4783 of 4944 strut repair question by richardstew Apr 13, 2009 (10:20 pm)
im planing on fixing my 2001 bmw 330i's front struts by replacing them the heinz repair manual is going to be my guide but i was told i would need some sort of clamp for removing and installing the struts is this true? or is following the manual the ok way of changing them. Replies to this message: kiawah (Apr 14, 2009 4:00 am)
#4784 of 4944 Re: strut repair question [richardstew] by kiawah Apr 14, 2009 (4:00 am)
Replying to: richardstew (Apr 13, 2009 10:20 pm) If you haven't done it before, I'd suggest just taking it somewhere to do. Lots of garages will do struts, even tire chains like National Tire Discount. I've done struts a number of times for my vehicles over the year, and just paid the last time. I don't know specifically about BMW, but I assume they're like any other strut, basically a compressed spring over top of a strengthed shock. The problem with doing it yourself, is even with the strut in a fully extended position (maximum length), the spring is compressed and is putting tension on the strut to extend it out to it's maximum length. If you just start unbolting things, at some point the parts and spring will break loose and send metal parts flying. You'll loose body parts you would rather have kept for a couple more years. The strut spring tool, allows you to apply compression pressure to the already compressed spring, so you then can unbolt it from the underlying shock. You put in the new shock, align everything properly, bolt the spring back on, and then slowly undo the spring tool. You can do it safely, but take care and make sure you get all the parts put back in exactly the same rotation that they came off in. A number of vehicles have had alignment problems and had to issue TSB's, when the strut was not assembled correctly at the factory. When I was at NTB getting tires and had the struts done, the guy had a tool bolted on the wall that held the whole strut, and with one movement of the large lever safely compressed the strut hold all the pieces in alignment, so that he could easily replace the shock. Very slick. You may want to investigate whether a shop would change the shock out of the strut for you at some minimal price, and then you mount the strut in the vehicle if you want to do that piece.
#4785 of 4944 Timimg Belt by oldfarmer50 Apr 14, 2009 (10:46 am)
Can anyone tell me when the timing belt should be changed on a Chrysler Cirrus with the Mitsubishi built 2.5L engine (6G73). Owners manual says nothing. Mitsu dealer says 60K on all their engines. Found an internet source that says 90K. Also, is that engine an interference type or not? Replies to this message: obyone (Apr 14, 2009 6:35 pm) bolivar (Apr 15, 2009 2:51 am)
#4786 of 4944 Re: Timimg Belt [oldfarmer50] by obyone Apr 14, 2009 (6:35 pm)
Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Apr 14, 2009 10:46 am) It is an interference motor. That being the case I'd opt for 60K on the timing belt and consider it cheap insurance.
#4787 of 4944 Re: Timimg Belt [oldfarmer50] by bolivar Apr 15, 2009 (2:51 am)
Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Apr 14, 2009 10:46 am) If the service part of the owner's manual does not specify it, then you possibly have a timing chain, not a belt. Chain usually do not have change intervals given, they are good for the life of the motor.
#4788 of 4944 Cooling fans run for no reason. by cricketcan Apr 15, 2009 (4:19 am)
2000/Buick/Century/3.1lt engine/Automatic trans/145,000 miles My cooling fans come on for no reason. The engine is cold and the the fans will come on and run the battery down. I've check the resistance on the cooling sensor. It was about 40 degrees outside and the ohms of res. was about 2500, about 140 degree's after running the engine for 10 to 15 minutes, it was 600 to 650 ohms. That is about right (Right)!!!! I pulled the plug to both fans and I have have 12.5 volts on the light blue wire on that harness. Is that part of the AC system. I can't find ant wire on the high side of the drier that is that color. Replies to this message: kiawah (Apr 15, 2009 4:43 am) cricketcan (Apr 15, 2009 5:42 am) obyone (Apr 17, 2009 12:10 pm)
#4789 of 4944 Re: Cooling fans run for no reason. [cricketcan] by kiawah Apr 15, 2009 (4:43 am)
Replying to: cricketcan (Apr 15, 2009 4:19 am) I can't speak to the specifics of your vehicle, I don't have the electrical schematics. The cooling circuitry for most vehicles has three parts, the control circuitry that determines when to turn on, a set of relays or even an integrated circuit, and the fan motors themselves. Your fan motors are turning, so they obviously have power and the motors aren't 'frozen' so those appear okay from your description. The relays are to there, because of the high current draw of the fan motors. Their contacts(points) are capable of handling the higher current draw and arching that can occur when you turn motors on and off. Usually when a relay is bad, it either never turns the fan on, or the fans are always on and never turn off. It is not abnormal for a relay to go bad. I'm not exactly sure of your symptom, because you say they "come on for no reason". If 'come on for no reason' means that they are off, and then they turn on, then your relay is probably okay. If 'come on for no reason' means that the fans are always running (or always running when the ignition is in ON position), then I would suspect the relays. If your fans are sometimes off and sometimes on, then I suspect that the relays might be okay. They are switching back and forth between on and off. You don't know for sure until you meter them out. But the typical relay failure is either 'never turns on', or 'never turns off'. For the control circuitry, in older vehicles it used to be that the thermostat controlled the relay. Then they wired in circuitry that when the A/C was turned on, it also turned on the relays to the fans no matter what the temperature. In newer cars the control circuitry is typically the engine computer, monitoring vehicle speed, a/c load, electrical voltage, engine rpm, engine temperature, ambient air temperatures, etc. If your relays aren't your problem, then you will need to get a set of electrical schematics for your vehicle which detail out what are the 'inputs' to the computer that are being monitored to turn on the relay and fans. You could have one of the 'inputs' bad (always calling for the relay/fans to be on), or your computer itself could be bad (misinterpretting the inputs, and turning the relay/fans on when not needed). Good luck. Replies to this message: cricketcan (Apr 15, 2009 5:42 am) obyone (Apr 17, 2009 12:10 pm)