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4960 messages,  Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:23 AM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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#4750 of 4960
Re: Honda Civic Hybrid CVT Fluid Change?? [jonathann] by bolivar
Mar 17, 2009 (11:35 pm)
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Replying to: jonathann (Mar 17, 2009 7:35 am)

Wow, that is a strangely written and somewhat confusing owner's manual set of instructions. 4 refills.
 
I'm not sure what it is saying. But, if there is nothing just previous to these instructions (about flushing out fluid when a substitute was used), I sure might read it to mean that when the maintenance light and reminder is displayed, it needs the 4 drain and refills.
 
I think I would try to have a nice talk with a service manager or tech and see if the big shop manual gives a better description of what is needed here. And look at the time the labor rates says is needed for this. If it is less than 1 hour, I think it is a drain and refill. If 2 hours or more, I think it's a 4 time drain, fill, and drive procedure.
#4751 of 4960
SAAB 9-5 SE 2000 Overheated Dealer says replace turbo by belfast3
Mar 24, 2009 (2:33 pm)
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2000 SAAB 9-5 SE Turbo, AT, 95,000 miles. My 18 year old grandson said car was overheating when stopping. He said oil light came on. He topped up coolant and drove it next day. Stopped with a lot of white smoke coming from exhaust. He said his friend saw blue smoke the previous day. Had it towed to dealer, who said it needed the turbo replaced cost $2,900 and it might need new engine. I said do not do anything. Another SAAB auto shop said it sounds like a head gasket problem $1500. Any ideas and real cost?
#4752 of 4960
Re: SAAB 9-5 SE 2000 Overheated Dealer says replace turbo [belfast3] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Mar 24, 2009 (4:00 pm)
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Replying to: belfast3 (Mar 24, 2009 2:33 pm)

Well until these shops stop guessing and do some tests, it's hard to say.
 
I can tell you a few things
 
A bad turbo can't cause overheating but can cause blue smoke
 
White smoke is a sign of bad head gasket, that's true.
 
SOOOOOO, if I were in your shoes, first thing I'd do is have the car tested for a bad head gasket. Any shop who says "they aren't sure"------take your car out of there immediately and go somewhere where they are sure of what they are doing.
 
Regarding the turbo, that could be inspected during the head gasket change.
 
And now the question on everyone's lips---is a 2000 Saab SE worth fixing?
 
I'd say for a head gasket yes....for a head gasket AND a turbo---that's getting iffy. The car does not have a lot of value---maybe $5K if it's really nice?
 
Whatever you do, don't give a shop a 'blank check' on this car. Ask for tests, then evaluate, get estimates, etc.
 
If you don't get straight answers, try another shop.
#4753 of 4960
Re: SAAB 9-5 SE 2000 Overheated Dealer says replace turbo [Mr_Shiftright] by euphonium
Mar 24, 2009 (6:46 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Mar 24, 2009 4:00 pm)

Not disagreeing, but isn't it fair to weigh the worst case cost against the Sales Tax and immediate depreciation of a younger vehicle replacement? Not to mention interest on any loan and insurance premiums.
#4754 of 4960
Re: SAAB 9-5 SE 2000 Overheated Dealer says replace turbo [euphonium] by obyone
Mar 24, 2009 (11:52 pm)
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Replying to: euphonium (Mar 24, 2009 6:46 pm)

My 18 year old grandson said car was overheating when stopping. He said oil light came on. He topped up coolant and drove it next day.
 
Overheating and oil light represents two different problems. The additional coolant should've helped the overheating though might be a tad late. The oil light indicates low oil pressure aka low oil level which could also be cause by the introduction of coolant into the oil. Having both overheating and oil light I would think would indicate a "no drive" scenario. Meaning don't drive the car.
 
From reading what you've posted it seems the head gasket is a guarantee while the motor replacement is not and neither is the turbo. Course you also need to address why the coolant was low if it wasn't draining into the engine via the failed head gasket.
 
I'd try and get a local mechanic to take a look at the car. Steer clear of the dealerships unless there are no other options. Try asking friends and relatives for references.
#4755 of 4960
Re: SAAB 9-5 SE 2000 Overheated Dealer says replace turbo [obyone] by belfast3
Mar 25, 2009 (8:07 am)
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Replying to: obyone (Mar 24, 2009 11:52 pm)

Thanks Euphonium for the speedy reply. He had car towed to dealer. I am having it towed to an auto repair shop which specializes in SAAB etc in Tucson, where my grandson lives. I will keep forum posted.
#4756 of 4960
Re: SAAB 9-5 SE 2000 Overheated Dealer says replace turbo [euphonium] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Mar 25, 2009 (8:33 am)
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Replying to: euphonium (Mar 24, 2009 6:46 pm)

Well there's an argument both ways on this car, and yours is as good as mine. It's a marginal type of thing, an 'on the fence" decision.
 
I don't know why people keep driving cars when they are overheating or if there's been an oil light on---this just makes it all worse. I realize they want to get home and all that but there's a reason that light is RED.
#4757 of 4960
They are getting old by dave8697
Mar 29, 2009 (4:06 pm)
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All my old GM's are leaking more this spring. I don't know if it was the sitting out in the cold or just rubber drying out from old age.
Leaks I'd like to fix to keep the driveway from getting stained up:
 
'96 Riviera with 171,000 miles. I used a 1/2 bottle oil leak stop and after 200 miles still have some tiny leaks. They have been diminished by about 80%. Should I have used a full bottle? Same car has had a trans fluid leak in flex hose to radiator since I got the car. It is leaking where the metal line from engine is crimped to rubber part just behind radiator. I am leery of using additive because I just read that they soften rubber seals but then problem comes back worse later. Trans has no other leaks. I was wondering if I could tighten a band clamp over the aluminum outer shell at hose crimp and stop the leak.
 
'99 Sonoma with 106,000 miles. Had 1 and got 3 new leaks over winter. Had a PS line leak at a crimp when I bought it. I put in PS fluid with leak stop last week. Will it work? I only was able to add about 5 ounces of the qt bottle. Unbolting the line seemed like a lot of work to be able to add more.
 
The two front shocks, now 10 yrs old, started leaking the same day, about the first warm day of spring. Do they stop leaking after a while, and is there any risk to not changing them once they leaked?
 
Had oil leak from drain plug rubber washer being 10 yrs old. Put a new one in and that leak was cured for $1.25.
 
Now for worst leak. On last really cold day of winter, I got to work and coolant was leaking from front and back of engine. I can't tell where from on the 4.3 V6. Took off air intake lines for better look and nothing visable. freeze plugs are good. It is coming from above spark plug height. More in back than front. Not from any hoses. Leak is pretty big. I was going to try prestone stop leak but the leak is pretty big. Oil is clean (normal) and truck starts and runs great. If I try prestone and it doesn't work, can I use the Bars leak stop with the black pellets? Research shows an intake manifold weakness in these late 90's 4.3s. Any way to find leak?
 
1998 Astro with 115,000 miles. It was in garage all winter but this is first year in new house without heated garage, so it went below 32 on those 8 degree nights. I used the other half of the oil leak stop and I drove about 160 miles so far and no leak yet. It was at a metal line to rubber flex line joint in the oil cooler line to the radiator. That makes 3 flex line crimp leaks in 3 vehicles for 3 different fluids. This one is oil. This Astro also got a coolant leak about the same time as the Sonoma and same engine and leak from trans/engine interface as well (drips off starter motor mount bolt). I put most of a bottle of prestone stop leak in and it sealed it up. For now the Astro is dry underneath. Is there any harm to the oil leak stop I put in? Will I have to use it every oil change? The Astro is due for an oil change in about 1000 miles. I use QS 5w-30.
#4758 of 4960
Re: They are getting old [dave8697] by burdawg
Mar 30, 2009 (6:33 am)
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Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 29, 2009 4:06 pm)

Well, it sounds like these vehicles need lots of demurred maintenance. Those leaks at the crimps on the flex lines pretty much means they need to be replaced. That's where they typically take the most stress.
Those coolant leaks in the V6's near the back of the engine could very well be intake manifold gasket problems, but then again it could be something much less severe.
Sounds like it's time to get out the tools, or the checkbook, (or both I guess) which ever applies.
Stop leak can only do so much.
#4759 of 4960
Re: They are getting old [burdawg] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Mar 30, 2009 (8:53 am)
Reply

Replying to: burdawg (Mar 30, 2009 6:33 am)

Stop leak is a very temporary measure that will just come back to haunt you. I agree, the power steering hoses must be replaced.
 
Also oil stop leak will not work on any seal that surrounds a spinning shaft of some type.

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