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4963 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 5:02 AM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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#4623 of 4963 NOT HEATING ANYMORE by pappy24319 Sep 19, 2008 (12:45 pm)
I put some block seal in and so far everything is working the way it is suppose to, I want to thank everyone that replied to my messages, you guys were great, your response time was fast. I have been on some forums that take two or three days for them to reply. I sure know were to come to now, I will post another one I'm having trouble with. Thanks again
#4624 of 4963 Hybrid noise by dan143 Sep 23, 2008 (7:15 am)
Our 2007 4 cyl Auto Camry Hybrid has this strange cracking, clicking noise whenever we slow to turn or are starting from a standstill and backing up turning. It just started two months ago. The dealership changed the intermediate steering column because of an alert issued by Toyota. The problem still exists and we are told we need new brake pads. There is only 20,000 miles on the car. This will be the 5th time we will be taking our car in for repair or diagnosis. Does the intermediate steering column requier grease to operate? The noise never happens when we are driving on the freeway only when we slow to turn or negotiate a turn or back up. Any help would be appreciated. Replies to this message: bolivar (Sep 24, 2008 1:35 am) burdawg (Sep 24, 2008 6:03 am)
#4625 of 4963 Re: Hybrid noise [dan143] by bolivar Sep 24, 2008 (1:35 am)
Replying to: dan143 (Sep 23, 2008 7:15 am) You may need brake pads, but those noises don't sound like brake noise. It's under warranty. Keep taking it back until they fix it correctly.
#4626 of 4963 Re: Hybrid noise [dan143] by burdawg Sep 24, 2008 (6:03 am)
Replying to: dan143 (Sep 23, 2008 7:15 am) Who told you that the pads needed replacing? Were they actually checked or just someone said it without really knowing? I have to agree with bolivar that it doesn't sound like brake noise, but with a hybrid I'm not 100% sure.
#4627 of 4963 Head bolts by ducks13 Sep 27, 2008 (2:22 pm)
I have a 97 honda passport with a 3.2 V6, it is the same as an Izuzu. I have never worked on an engine with highly stressed head bolts before and am a little confused by what I have observed. The bolts seem to be extremly tight although the torque spec for the new bolts is only 47 ft-lbs. I would guess that it is taking 125+ ft-lbs to break them loose. One of the bolts actually broke when I loosened it and one of the bolts was already broken when I got to it. The shop manuals say these bolts should be replaced, not reused, when you change the head gaskets. I believe they are 12mm bolts. I have the hayes shop manual and got alldata's online shop manual too and they both have the same torque spec. I think hayes says they should be lubricated while alldata's said dry. So, my questions is, does 47 ft-lbs sound like the right torque spec and if so why were the bolts so tight when I removed the old ones? Thanks Replies to this message: bison2 (Sep 28, 2008 6:41 am) Mr_Shiftright (Sep 28, 2008 9:02 am)
#4628 of 4963 Re: Head bolts [ducks13] by bison2 Sep 28, 2008 (6:41 am)
Replying to: ducks13 (Sep 27, 2008 2:22 pm) I have no experience with your particular engine, but generally in a case like yours ,the headbolts could have seized in the treads or on the bolt shank if no antiseizure compound or tread sealant was used at installation in the past due to corrosion by coolant seepage. an other possibility could be that the bolts where overtorqued by the last person that worked on the engine. generally takes more force to loosen a bolt that has been tight for a long time than was required to tighten it. most head bolts are torque to yield these days and stretch a bit ,so they recommend using new bolts once removed,maybe yours where reused. bolt torque is lower if you have a aluminum head and/or block,than on steel components.
#4629 of 4963 Re: Head bolts [ducks13] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Sep 28, 2008 (9:02 am)
Replying to: ducks13 (Sep 27, 2008 2:22 pm) Those are M11 bolts and 47 ft lbs is correct. AllData says not to use oil. If you use anti-seize do NOT overtorque even one little ft lb. Installing dry is also fine but you have to chase the threads (clean them with a tool) in the head to make sure you aren't getting false torque readings from a binding thread. Over-torquing is just as risky, if not riskier, than under torquing since it's quite possible the bolt will move off its higher than normal torque. And yes, brand new bolts all around, please.
#4630 of 4963 Ford Expedition driveline vibration by tmoretta Oct 02, 2008 (6:55 am)
I have a '99 Ford Expedition 5.4 liter 92000 miles. It has developed a vibration only when pulling hard uphill or towing. It feels like a u joint, but, on inspection they look, feel tight. There is some play in the output shaft from the trans. I know that the Explorers have a problem in this area. Is this a problem common to the Expediton too? What is the fix? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Oct 02, 2008 7:14 am)
#4631 of 4963 Re: Ford Expedition driveline vibration [tmoretta] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Oct 02, 2008 (7:14 am)
Replying to: tmoretta (Oct 02, 2008 6:55 am) Does this sound applicable? Article No. 99-15-7 07/26/99 ^ BODY BOOM - SPEEDS OVER 72 KM/H (45 MPH) - DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE ^ SHIMMY - SPEEDS OVER 72 KM/H (45 MPH) - DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE ^ VIBRATION - SPEEDS OVER 72 KM/H (45 MPH) - DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE FORD: 1997-1999 EXPEDITION LINCOLN: 1998-1999 NAVIGATOR ISSUE A vibration at speeds above 72 km/h (45 mph) may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by an imbalance in one or more of the driveline components resulting in a resonance that produces a vibration in the seat or steering column. ACTION Refer to the following Drive Diagnostic Procedure and System Balancing Procedure. Follow the initial drive diagnostic and note any changes after each drive. PART NUMBER PART NAME XL1Z-4602-AB Driveshaft XL1Z-4802-AA Driveshaft F85Z-5E269-EA Exhaust Pipe Bracket XL1Z-4602-BA Driveshaft F85Z-4B473-AA Damper Assembly OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: 98-18-7, 98-5-2, 99-1-1
#4632 of 4963 2002 F-150 sputters during acceleration, may be AC related by 1potato Oct 06, 2008 (10:09 am)
My F 150 automatic with the 4.6 Triton and 107,000 mi sort of sputters, coughs, lurches (hard to describe), when I am on the gas. The engine light does not come on and it keeps running. It seems to involve the AC. If I run the air it does it, if I turn the air off while driving it still does it. If I turn the air off before shutting the truck off, and don't turn it back on the next time I drive, it runs fine. Please help, I need to sell this truck, but want to solve the problem first