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Maintenance & Repair Got a Quick, Technical Question?
4967 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 8:25 PM
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Replying to: bolivar (Apr 02, 2007 11:38 pm) In answer to your question, the reason I wish to use synthetic is that I have had it extend the life of a Mercury Villager tranny that was at 168,000km and had developed hard changes from 1st to 2nd. After adding Mobil1 the hard changes disappeared and I sold the vehicle 11 months later at 189,000km with the tranny still performing normally. A friend had slippage problems with a Subaru and followed my recommendation to use Mobil1. In his case the vehicle is still running two years later and 62,000km later with no tranny problems. Two cars do not make a scientific study but this is what I am going by. In terms of loosening crud in the tranny I was wondering what a tranny flush would do that might be different to a pan only fluid change? Also I am probably wrong but I thought that Mobil1 was compatible with regular tranny fluid?
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Replying to: gliderrider (Apr 03, 2007 3:59 am) 1) disconnect the transmission fluid line (input line) at the radiator (The transmission fluid is cooled by the radiator just so you know). 2) take a small diameter hose and put one end over the transmission line. Put the other end in a bucket to catch all the old fluid. 3) have somebody poor clean tranny fluid into the reservoir from the top while the tranny pumps fluid out of the line into your bucket. 4) when the tranny fluid runs clear you are completely flushed. Stop the engine and reconnect the tranny line at the radiator.
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Replying to: jasmith52 (Apr 03, 2007 3:01 pm) Here are a few possible points. -The metal lines into the radiator may be difficult to remove. If there is a rubber line in there (used many times as a flex joint between the solid steel lines and the radiator), I would break the lines there. Usually jointed by screw clamps. If there are no rubber lines, take care to not rip the line out of the radiator. Speaking from experience of changing a radiator, these connections can be very tight. -You will have a 'balancing' job of guaging the outgoing flow, and pouring new fluid into the fill tube. You don't want to let the fluid run low in the tranny while the motor is running. This might cause severe problems, quickly.
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Replying to: bolivar (Apr 03, 2007 9:16 pm) I was just out at the car and there are rubber pipes connecting the radiator to the tranny. Bolivar's warning about keeping a balance between the fluid going to waste and the new fluid being added is well taken. Does anyone know how much tranny fluid the sump under the tranny holds? |
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Replying to: gliderrider (Apr 04, 2007 3:26 am) With the cost of replacement transmissions, I started taking this to the dealer to get it done right. |
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Replying to: gliderrider (Apr 04, 2007 3:26 am) How about drain a quart... add a quart? Start off with an empty quart bottle.
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It sounds like the process is add fluid at the transmission dipstick fill tube while the pump takes it out to the tube at the radiator. I had thought (and changed my mind) about doing a flush by connecting to both tubes at the radiator. For the one going back to the tranny just connect it to something like a 2-liter bottle with the bottom cut off and keep fluid in it (2nd person holding it and pouring in bottles of transmission fluid) while the fluid coming out the other tube is caught in a container. When the fluid coming out through the clear plastic tube is clear, you're done, and probably have used about 15 quarts for a 12 quart transmission. I decided to do the gentler thing and drop the pan and replace 6 of the 12 and do that 2 ro 3 times in a row. Essentially get complete change without shocking the crud in the transmission. |
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Replying to: jipster (Apr 04, 2007 4:41 am)
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Replying to: gliderrider (Apr 04, 2007 6:59 am) |
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I've read through ALL the forums searching for a possible solution to my problem and I haven't exactly found what I was looking for... My car starts up fine, but many times when I start it non of the guages, radio, A/C, OnStar, Cruise, etc. will work. Turn signals and hazards work fine. Took it to the dealership one day when it was actually acting up, and the guy said he wasn't getting any error codes on it at all...which I believe, I was standing right next to him in the parking lot. Checked all the fuses, no issues there. He says it could be an ignition switch, but not sure. I'm reading that it's possible it the bcm. By the way, this usually only happens when it's warm outside. I'm from NE OH, so yesterday when it was 80, they didn't work at all. Today it was 35, and everything worked fine. Any ideas?????
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