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4964 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 5:17 PM
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I have a '01 Pontiac Montana. The fuel gauge reads fine with the tank full, but is totally inaccurate below half tank. When the gauge starts reading all over the place I know I'm getting close to empty. I have had fuel gauge problems on other vehicles in the past and they have generally been bad ground issues. Anyone know where the sender ground is on these vehicles? Is that likely to be the culprit this time too? Any help would be appreciated
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Replying to: s1091 (Feb 08, 2005 10:04 am) |
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Replying to: svtmustang (Mar 29, 2007 12:33 pm) Most of these are inside the fuel tank. Fuel tank must be dropped to access it. |
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Daughter took my 93 Chevy Blazer to college and transmission went bad...can't get out of 2nd. Could I drive it a hundred or so miles to get it home? Obviously would have to take the back roads. The terrain is hilly also. Any advice?
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Replying to: bwebber1 (Apr 01, 2007 11:45 am) |
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Any body know how to take off the tail light assembly for replacement. Wife backed into a car and broke the clear caseing and of course now I have to replace the whole thing. |
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I have a 1998 2L Escort Wagon (190,000Km) and a 2000 Altima SE (136,000Km) I have reasonable mechanical aptitude and a good set of tools. I would like to do my own tranny flushes using synthetic Mobil 1 and wondered if this was a DIY job. I believe that the Escort has a filter and that I would need to drop the pan and replace the filter and the pan gasket. I have been told that the Altima does not have a filter. If I need to buy some equipment or tools (a fluid pump?) as a one off expense that would be OK. Could I ask you these questions: 1. Is this a DIY job? 2. Can you either point me at a resource where I can get some generic instructions on how to do a tranny flush or can you give me the basic steps to follow? Thank you for your help,
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Replying to: gliderrider (Apr 02, 2007 7:29 am) Flushes on high milage cars have the possibility of breaking loose some 'crud' which does not flush out, but does lodge in some place where it will cause a problem. Look at the owners manuals. There may be one out there that does call for a flush, but all I've ever seen just call for a drain of fluid, change of filter (if there is one), and refill with the same type fluid. If the original tranny fluid has gotten you to these milages, why are you considering changing to some other type (synthetic)? Removing all the fluid from auto trannys is about impossible (it will not drain out of the torque convertor, leaving about 40% of the fluid undrained). So, you are going to be mixing two different fluids if you go to synthetic. So, my advice is to just drain and refill with original fluid called for in your owner's manual. Can you do this? I don't know. Most auto trannys will NOT have a drain plug. You will have to drop the pan. Sometimes there may be 'something else' in the way that must be removed. Not much you can do (without a service manual) except crawl under there and look. When you 'drop a pan', it's a mess. Fluid will start pouring out all around the pan. Unless you have a huge catch pan, you may make a big mess. The pan and fluid that remains in it is somewhat heavy, so you have a potential for even a greater mess. Tranny fluid stains, is oily, and thin and runny. You've been warned....
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Replying to: bolivar (Apr 02, 2007 11:38 pm) In answer to your question, the reason I wish to use synthetic is that I have had it extend the life of a Mercury Villager tranny that was at 168,000km and had developed hard changes from 1st to 2nd. After adding Mobil1 the hard changes disappeared and I sold the vehicle 11 months later at 189,000km with the tranny still performing normally. A friend had slippage problems with a Subaru and followed my recommendation to use Mobil1. In his case the vehicle is still running two years later and 62,000km later with no tranny problems. Two cars do not make a scientific study but this is what I am going by. In terms of loosening crud in the tranny I was wondering what a tranny flush would do that might be different to a pan only fluid change? Also I am probably wrong but I thought that Mobil1 was compatible with regular tranny fluid?
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Replying to: gliderrider (Apr 03, 2007 3:59 am) 1) disconnect the transmission fluid line (input line) at the radiator (The transmission fluid is cooled by the radiator just so you know). 2) take a small diameter hose and put one end over the transmission line. Put the other end in a bucket to catch all the old fluid. 3) have somebody poor clean tranny fluid into the reservoir from the top while the tranny pumps fluid out of the line into your bucket. 4) when the tranny fluid runs clear you are completely flushed. Stop the engine and reconnect the tranny line at the radiator.
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