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4962 messages, Last post on Dec 03, 2009 at 7:06 PM
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Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 28, 2007 4:24 pm) I put in a new non OEM coolant temp sensor when it first acted up. The temp gage read 1 bar below 200 degrees. Only the car acted up worse due to MAF, vac leaks, etc, so I cleaned and put back the original coolant temp sensor after a few weeks. Ever since, the temp reads half a bar higher. It went down slightly after bleeding out the air. Should I swap back to the newer sensor? Does the temp gage read different because one sensor sends a more accurate signal or because the old sensor makes the engine run hotter? |
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Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 20, 2007 3:57 pm) If the DexCool is red (orange?) it's not been in there 11 years! It should be changed every 2 years but it's 5 years optimum. Actually if you have a voltmeter, put the negative on the ground of the battery and the positive lead into the coolant in the radiator. If it shows more than .3 or .4 volts, time to change out the DexCool because you're getting voltages generated form the metals in the system that shouldn't be due to additives in the coolant having worn out. The coolant leak... could that be an elbow that seals with little o-rings? In Bonnevilles they often mention that as a problem area. |
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I have a '01 Pontiac Montana. The fuel gauge reads fine with the tank full, but is totally inaccurate below half tank. When the gauge starts reading all over the place I know I'm getting close to empty. I have had fuel gauge problems on other vehicles in the past and they have generally been bad ground issues. Anyone know where the sender ground is on these vehicles? Is that likely to be the culprit this time too? Any help would be appreciated
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Replying to: s1091 (Feb 08, 2005 10:04 am) |
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Replying to: svtmustang (Mar 29, 2007 12:33 pm) Most of these are inside the fuel tank. Fuel tank must be dropped to access it. |
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Daughter took my 93 Chevy Blazer to college and transmission went bad...can't get out of 2nd. Could I drive it a hundred or so miles to get it home? Obviously would have to take the back roads. The terrain is hilly also. Any advice?
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Replying to: bwebber1 (Apr 01, 2007 11:45 am) |
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Any body know how to take off the tail light assembly for replacement. Wife backed into a car and broke the clear caseing and of course now I have to replace the whole thing. |
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I have a 1998 2L Escort Wagon (190,000Km) and a 2000 Altima SE (136,000Km) I have reasonable mechanical aptitude and a good set of tools. I would like to do my own tranny flushes using synthetic Mobil 1 and wondered if this was a DIY job. I believe that the Escort has a filter and that I would need to drop the pan and replace the filter and the pan gasket. I have been told that the Altima does not have a filter. If I need to buy some equipment or tools (a fluid pump?) as a one off expense that would be OK. Could I ask you these questions: 1. Is this a DIY job? 2. Can you either point me at a resource where I can get some generic instructions on how to do a tranny flush or can you give me the basic steps to follow? Thank you for your help,
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Replying to: gliderrider (Apr 02, 2007 7:29 am) Flushes on high milage cars have the possibility of breaking loose some 'crud' which does not flush out, but does lodge in some place where it will cause a problem. Look at the owners manuals. There may be one out there that does call for a flush, but all I've ever seen just call for a drain of fluid, change of filter (if there is one), and refill with the same type fluid. If the original tranny fluid has gotten you to these milages, why are you considering changing to some other type (synthetic)? Removing all the fluid from auto trannys is about impossible (it will not drain out of the torque convertor, leaving about 40% of the fluid undrained). So, you are going to be mixing two different fluids if you go to synthetic. So, my advice is to just drain and refill with original fluid called for in your owner's manual. Can you do this? I don't know. Most auto trannys will NOT have a drain plug. You will have to drop the pan. Sometimes there may be 'something else' in the way that must be removed. Not much you can do (without a service manual) except crawl under there and look. When you 'drop a pan', it's a mess. Fluid will start pouring out all around the pan. Unless you have a huge catch pan, you may make a big mess. The pan and fluid that remains in it is somewhat heavy, so you have a potential for even a greater mess. Tranny fluid stains, is oily, and thin and runny. You've been warned....
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