Got a Quick, Technical Question?

4960 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:23 AM

You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright

What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

A Place to Post A Question That Doesn't Need a Discussion--Only One Quick Answer!

Outline

Messages Page 331 of 496: 1; ...; 328; 329; 330; 331; 332; 333; 334; ...; 496; Prev; Next; Last

#3300 of 4960 Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [user777] by 0patience Mar 25, 2007 (10:35 am)
Replying to: user777 (Mar 25, 2007 3:32 am) One word of caution while trying to find a draw on newer vehicles. Understand that some modules on newer vehicles are "stay alive" modules and will show a draw for quite some time after the vehicle has been shut off before they will shut down. Vehicles with things like cascade lighting, remotes, alarms and such will often have modules that are still "thinking" for upwards of an hour after the vehicle is shut down. Replies to this message: user777 (Mar 25, 2007 10:59 am)
#3301 of 4960 Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [0patience] by user777 Mar 25, 2007 (10:59 am)
Replying to: 0patience (Mar 25, 2007 10:35 am) this is very true, but they most likely aren't significant current draws, certainly not ones that force a battery quickly down. maybe i'm missing your point.
#3302 of 4960 Re: key stuck in ignition [rocki7] by hoodlatch Mar 26, 2007 (8:40 am)
Replying to: rocki7 (Mar 05, 2007 8:25 am) I've got a 97 S-10 with the same problem.
#3303 of 4960 Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [user777] by piratedave Mar 26, 2007 (5:08 pm)
Replying to: user777 (Mar 25, 2007 3:32 am) Thanks. I tried pulling every fuse, again, just to make sure I didn't miss something and still didn't find the bad circuit. I have ordered a wiring diagram so I can make sure I'm not missing a relay somewhere - I already found some behind the dash. I also think it might be in the alternator cable - pulling the fusible link on that circuit stops the drain. Replies to this message: burdawg (Mar 26, 2007 8:05 pm) user777 (Mar 27, 2007 9:04 am)
#3304 of 4960 Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [piratedave] by burdawg Mar 26, 2007 (8:05 pm)
Replying to: piratedave (Mar 26, 2007 5:08 pm) If you can disconnect the alternator and stop the drain, I would suspect the integral regulator in the alternator is shorted. Replies to this message: user777 (Mar 27, 2007 9:04 am)
#3305 of 4960 Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [burdawg] by user777 Mar 27, 2007 (9:04 am)
Replying to: burdawg (Mar 26, 2007 8:05 pm) exactly.
#3306 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [dave8697] by dave8697 Mar 28, 2007 (3:26 pm)
Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 23, 2007 9:21 am) Problem solved. The idle has totally smoothed out since the bolt tightening on the vacuum fitting plate and the MAF sensor brushing with CRC. Checked mileage today on 296 mile tank and it was 28.5 for combined city and hwy. That is definitely back to normal and as good as 68,000 miles ago when I first got the car. Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Mar 28, 2007 4:24 pm) dave8697 (Mar 28, 2007 5:20 pm) dave8697 (May 02, 2007 9:12 pm)
#3307 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [dave8697] by imidazol97 Mar 28, 2007 (4:24 pm)
Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 28, 2007 3:26 pm) I reread the thread and you asked about sealant for the new coolant and I didn't respond... I used 2-3 pellets of the organic material sold at GM parts counters. It's a finely ground something or other that swells anywhere it starts to seep out of the liquid and seals. There are 5 pellets in a pack for a few dollars. They might tell you how much to put in at the dealer. I think there's a special blend for Northstars. But for my 3800's I was told by service manager to use a couple. Each time I do a two-year DexCool change, I rinse with plain water a couple of cycles and run the motor, drain, and refill after cooling. So I figure it lost the free, circulating particles from the original pellets. I wouldn't use any commercial stopleak type materials for fear of blocking the heater. Replies to this message: dave8697 (Mar 28, 2007 5:20 pm)
#3308 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [imidazol97] by dave8697 Mar 28, 2007 (5:20 pm)
Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 28, 2007 4:24 pm) Thanks, my leak is slight but it will be good to plug it. I bought the car at 7-8 yrs old and 88,000 miles on it. I figure the first two owners did not flush it. I added about 2 qts new last year but it definitely needs changed. I will try the organic pellets and flush it. It took three bleeds to get all the air out. I put in a new non OEM coolant temp sensor when it first acted up. The temp gage read 1 bar below 200 degrees. Only the car acted up worse due to MAF, vac leaks, etc, so I cleaned and put back the original coolant temp sensor after a few weeks. Ever since, the temp reads half a bar higher. It went down slightly after bleeding out the air. Should I swap back to the newer sensor? Does the temp gage read different because one sensor sends a more accurate signal or because the old sensor makes the engine run hotter?
#3309 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [dave8697] by imidazol97 Mar 28, 2007 (5:48 pm)
Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 20, 2007 3:57 pm) I finally found the original post. It's not in the links and I missed it. If the DexCool is red (orange?) it's not been in there 11 years! It should be changed every 2 years but it's 5 years optimum. Actually if you have a voltmeter, put the negative on the ground of the battery and the positive lead into the coolant in the radiator. If it shows more than .3 or .4 volts, time to change out the DexCool because you're getting voltages generated form the metals in the system that shouldn't be due to additives in the coolant having worn out. The coolant leak... could that be an elbow that seals with little o-rings? In Bonnevilles they often mention that as a problem area.