A Place to Post A Question That Doesn't Need a Discussion--Only One Quick Answer!
- #3292 of 4960
-
78 mb piston lube problem
by uteoat
-
Mar 22, 2007 (6:58 am)
-
|
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a mercedes 123 diesel. There are no oil jets in this one as described in the book. Looking further I have found no oil passage in the conrods. The engine was recently rebuilt and the conrod numbers don't match up with the corresponding cylinders, so they might have been replaced.
My question is how does the oil cooled piston get the lubrication it needs if there is no way for the oil to get to it?
I,ve posted in other forums to try to get this question answered and am hoping there is some mechanical genius out there that can help me out with this one.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
uteoat 
|
- #3293 of 4960
-
Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [imidazol97]
by dave8697
-
Mar 22, 2007 (10:44 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 22, 2007 5:10 am)
It is a '96 Riviera. I will bleed the coolant fitting tonite to check if I have had air in the system ever since I changed out the coolant temp sensor. After that I will use a fine brush on the MAF along with the CRC electrical spray. The bolts on the 3-way vacuum fitting on the supercharger that I tightened last nite may have done something. No idle fluctuations in 3 trips today so far but way too early to tell.
|
- #3294 of 4960
-
high idle
by john_doe_wny
-
Mar 22, 2007 (1:02 pm)
-
|
|
Hi, I have a 98 Taurus w/dohc with 123000 miles and at start up it idles high. Doesn't matter if engine is warm or not. 1500-1800rpm. Once I've tapped the gas it idles down and is fine. This happens winter or summer so outside temp doesn't really bother it. The check engine light doesn't come on. Once I've tapped the gas or the car is in gear it idles fine. (even in park after it's been in gear it's fine) I've used bottled gas cleaners but no help. Any thoughts would be great.
|
- #3295 of 4960
-
Re: high idle [john_doe_wny]
by dave8697
-
Mar 23, 2007 (9:08 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: john_doe_wny (Mar 22, 2007 1:02 pm)
The things that caused me high idle were gaskets gone bad that could only be corrected with gasket replacement. If you can tap it down like my '86 ciera then maybe it should go down by itself. Try cleaning and oiling the cam off the throttle plate. spray the linkages with wd-40. There could be a vacuum diaphram that pushes a link to kick it off hi idle. the vacuum line could be leaking or the diaphram bad. Check the throttle cables for interference including from the cruise control unit. Have you cleaned the throttle plate axle with gumout? That could hang it up too. My '86 Ciera idle is always high now too and it's probably the mixture control solenoid inside the electronic carb. I have to get a new solenoid for it. Going to the junkyard today. Found a new one for $96 but I hate to spend that much on a 21 year old car. I replaced this part for my '84 Camaro once and it did the trick, restoring about 8 mpg. The Ciera has dropped from 28 down to 22 mpg as the solenoid went bad. The bad solenoid always lets it run super rich and it's also ruining the new cat converter too.
|
- #3296 of 4960
-
Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [jipster]
by dave8697
-
Mar 23, 2007 (9:21 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: jipster (Mar 22, 2007 4:50 am)
I bled the coolant fitting and tightened the vac fitting more on top of the SuperCharger and tightened the new gasket I just put in between the SC and throttle body a little more. It may have settled in the 3 days since I put it in. I also took out the MAF and cleaned it with a model paint brush dipped in CRC. I cleaned all sides of both filaments, rinsed it in CRC spray and put it in. Then I drove 80 miles this morning to work and back and it is running perfect. I bled the coolant a little more after I got home. It is finally acting normal. I think my mileage is back to normal. 28.3 yesterday on a 150 mile tank and at 100 miles on the new tank top off, the fuel gage is still sitting on full so I'm hopeful it's back the way it used to be. It seems like if it is fixed now, it was one big vac leak, a couple small vac leaks, and a dirty MAF all adding together to screw it up. Maybe the air in the coolant contributed too. I'm gonna cancel my appt with Buick tomorrow morning and check the mileage after about 300 miles.
|
- #3297 of 4960
-
Re: high idle [dave8697]
by john_doe_wny
-
Mar 23, 2007 (9:47 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 23, 2007 9:08 am)
Thanks Dave, I'll try these things you've said and see how it works. The car just runs so good otherwise I hope it's an easy fix. How do I get to the throttle plate axle? Can that be done without taking anything apart? If not what needs to be done to get to it? Thanks again
|
- #3298 of 4960
-
Rapid Parasitic Drain
by piratedave
-
Mar 24, 2007 (5:23 pm)
-
|
The battery in my 1995 Mitsubishi Montero drains very quickly - in just a few hours. The battery is new and alternator seems to be charging, OK.
I have already tried pulling and replacing all fuses, relays and fusible links that I could find. I also tried disconnecting the alternator, starter and ignition switch but the volts would still drop rapidly when the + cable was re-attached. I have also tried chasing down shorts but haven't found anything obvious, yet. Any other ideas??
|
- #3299 of 4960
-
Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [piratedave]
by user777
-
Mar 25, 2007 (3:32 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: piratedave (Mar 24, 2007 5:23 pm)
with a voltmeter across the battery, or amp-meter in-line, as you pull and replace each fuse, have you recorded what voltage bumps, or current draw changes have occured for each circuit? because the one that causes the most significant bump is probably the circuit at fault.
do you have multiple fuse / relay centers? for example, in my accord, there is one in the engine compartment, but then there are also two on each side of the lower dash.
do you have any power windows, sunroof or seats? those would be my first suspect.
another thing is possible here. that is your fuse / relay center is sitting in a moist environment and somehow shorting a hot circuit to ground.
|
- #3300 of 4960
-
Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [user777]
by 0patience
-
Mar 25, 2007 (10:35 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: user777 (Mar 25, 2007 3:32 am)
One word of caution while trying to find a draw on newer vehicles. Understand that some modules on newer vehicles are "stay alive" modules and will show a draw for quite some time after the vehicle has been shut off before they will shut down.
Vehicles with things like cascade lighting, remotes, alarms and such will often have modules that are still "thinking" for upwards of an hour after the vehicle is shut down.
|
- #3301 of 4960
-
Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [0patience]
by user777
-
Mar 25, 2007 (10:59 am)
-
|
|
Replying to: 0patience (Mar 25, 2007 10:35 am)
this is very true, but they most likely aren't significant current draws, certainly not ones that force a battery quickly down. maybe i'm missing your point.
|
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Maintenance & Repair 
