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#3290 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [dave8697] by jipster Mar 22, 2007 (4:50 am)
Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 21, 2007 6:27 pm) how do I bleed the air out when I change the coolant? Open the coolant air bleed valve, there is only one,it's located on the thermostat housing. When you're filling the radiator, if coolant starts coming out of valve close it..otherwise close the valve after the radiator is full. I don't know about the additive.. the manual states it unnecessary and "may be harmful". I always say if it ain't broke don't fix it... so up to you on that one. But, the Dexcool is suppose to be changed every 5 years or 150,000 miles, whichever comes first. Some people here recommend sooner than 5 years. Heck, I would proably just change the MAF sensor. I had a free diagnostic code test done free at our local Autozone... code read the problem with the MAF. The dealership wanted $89 to run the diagnostic test and diagnoise to pinpoint problem. I was in a bit of a bind time wise and had them go ahead and do the test, then replace the MAF sensor on my Buick Regal LS. My car was cutting out though on occasion at stop light and slow braking. Anyhow, hope you can get things squared away. Replies to this message: dave8697 (Mar 23, 2007 9:21 am) dave8697 (Mar 28, 2007 3:26 pm) imidazol97 (Mar 28, 2007 4:24 pm) and 1 more... dave8697 (May 02, 2007 9:12 pm)
#3291 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [dave8697] by imidazol97 Mar 22, 2007 (5:10 am)
Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 21, 2007 6:27 pm) You don't say what car model and what year. I know on my 3800s the service manual says to fill, you can use the bleeder screw to purge air if you want. Run the motor until the lower radiator hose is warm indicating a flow through thermostat and then run motor at 2500 rpm 5 times for a several seconds. That will move water through the system, and the heater core, to move air out to the bleeder screw area and into the radiator where it purges to the reservoir naturally. Then you can bleed again at the screw to remove all the air. It's important to remove all the air because one factor in deterioration of DexCool is mixing with air as it's moving through the motor and radiator. Some people recommend changing DexCool every two years or 24-36 K miles just like the abrasive green stuff. DexCool has many good properties that conserve aluminum and other parts of the cooling system. Early seals on 3800 parts in 97 or so were changed in composition because they reacted with DexCool after it deteriorated. MAF sensor can be removed. I've heard a mechanic talk about cleaning the wire very, very gently like with an artist's brush. If you look at it under magnification it will have dirt particles growing off of it like hairs. But the wire is extremely fragile. Replies to this message: dave8697 (Mar 22, 2007 10:44 am)
#3292 of 4960 78 mb piston lube problem by uteoat Mar 22, 2007 (6:58 am)
I'm in the middle of rebuilding a mercedes 123 diesel. There are no oil jets in this one as described in the book. Looking further I have found no oil passage in the conrods. The engine was recently rebuilt and the conrod numbers don't match up with the corresponding cylinders, so they might have been replaced. My question is how does the oil cooled piston get the lubrication it needs if there is no way for the oil to get to it? I,ve posted in other forums to try to get this question answered and am hoping there is some mechanical genius out there that can help me out with this one. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, uteoat
#3293 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [imidazol97] by dave8697 Mar 22, 2007 (10:44 am)
Replying to: imidazol97 (Mar 22, 2007 5:10 am) It is a '96 Riviera. I will bleed the coolant fitting tonite to check if I have had air in the system ever since I changed out the coolant temp sensor. After that I will use a fine brush on the MAF along with the CRC electrical spray. The bolts on the 3-way vacuum fitting on the supercharger that I tightened last nite may have done something. No idle fluctuations in 3 trips today so far but way too early to tell.
#3294 of 4960 high idle by john_doe_wny Mar 22, 2007 (1:02 pm)
Hi, I have a 98 Taurus w/dohc with 123000 miles and at start up it idles high. Doesn't matter if engine is warm or not. 1500-1800rpm. Once I've tapped the gas it idles down and is fine. This happens winter or summer so outside temp doesn't really bother it. The check engine light doesn't come on. Once I've tapped the gas or the car is in gear it idles fine. (even in park after it's been in gear it's fine) I've used bottled gas cleaners but no help. Any thoughts would be great. Replies to this message: dave8697 (Mar 23, 2007 9:08 am) john_doe_wny (Mar 23, 2007 9:47 am)
#3295 of 4960 Re: high idle [john_doe_wny] by dave8697 Mar 23, 2007 (9:08 am)
Replying to: john_doe_wny (Mar 22, 2007 1:02 pm) The things that caused me high idle were gaskets gone bad that could only be corrected with gasket replacement. If you can tap it down like my '86 ciera then maybe it should go down by itself. Try cleaning and oiling the cam off the throttle plate. spray the linkages with wd-40. There could be a vacuum diaphram that pushes a link to kick it off hi idle. the vacuum line could be leaking or the diaphram bad. Check the throttle cables for interference including from the cruise control unit. Have you cleaned the throttle plate axle with gumout? That could hang it up too. My '86 Ciera idle is always high now too and it's probably the mixture control solenoid inside the electronic carb. I have to get a new solenoid for it. Going to the junkyard today. Found a new one for $96 but I hate to spend that much on a 21 year old car. I replaced this part for my '84 Camaro once and it did the trick, restoring about 8 mpg. The Ciera has dropped from 28 down to 22 mpg as the solenoid went bad. The bad solenoid always lets it run super rich and it's also ruining the new cat converter too. Replies to this message: john_doe_wny (Mar 23, 2007 9:47 am)
#3296 of 4960 Re: 3800 Series II SC idle fluctuations [jipster] by dave8697 Mar 23, 2007 (9:21 am)
Replying to: jipster (Mar 22, 2007 4:50 am) I bled the coolant fitting and tightened the vac fitting more on top of the SuperCharger and tightened the new gasket I just put in between the SC and throttle body a little more. It may have settled in the 3 days since I put it in. I also took out the MAF and cleaned it with a model paint brush dipped in CRC. I cleaned all sides of both filaments, rinsed it in CRC spray and put it in. Then I drove 80 miles this morning to work and back and it is running perfect. I bled the coolant a little more after I got home. It is finally acting normal. I think my mileage is back to normal. 28.3 yesterday on a 150 mile tank and at 100 miles on the new tank top off, the fuel gage is still sitting on full so I'm hopeful it's back the way it used to be. It seems like if it is fixed now, it was one big vac leak, a couple small vac leaks, and a dirty MAF all adding together to screw it up. Maybe the air in the coolant contributed too. I'm gonna cancel my appt with Buick tomorrow morning and check the mileage after about 300 miles. Replies to this message: dave8697 (Mar 28, 2007 3:26 pm) imidazol97 (Mar 28, 2007 4:24 pm) dave8697 (Mar 28, 2007 5:20 pm) dave8697 (May 02, 2007 9:12 pm)
#3297 of 4960 Re: high idle [dave8697] by john_doe_wny Mar 23, 2007 (9:47 am)
Replying to: dave8697 (Mar 23, 2007 9:08 am) Thanks Dave, I'll try these things you've said and see how it works. The car just runs so good otherwise I hope it's an easy fix. How do I get to the throttle plate axle? Can that be done without taking anything apart? If not what needs to be done to get to it? Thanks again
#3298 of 4960 Rapid Parasitic Drain by piratedave Mar 24, 2007 (5:23 pm)
The battery in my 1995 Mitsubishi Montero drains very quickly - in just a few hours. The battery is new and alternator seems to be charging, OK. I have already tried pulling and replacing all fuses, relays and fusible links that I could find. I also tried disconnecting the alternator, starter and ignition switch but the volts would still drop rapidly when the + cable was re-attached. I have also tried chasing down shorts but haven't found anything obvious, yet. Any other ideas?? Replies to this message: user777 (Mar 25, 2007 3:32 am) 0patience (Mar 25, 2007 10:35 am) user777 (Mar 25, 2007 10:59 am) piratedave (Mar 26, 2007 5:08 pm) burdawg (Mar 26, 2007 8:05 pm) and 1 more...
#3299 of 4960 Re: Rapid Parasitic Drain [piratedave] by user777 Mar 25, 2007 (3:32 am)
Replying to: piratedave (Mar 24, 2007 5:23 pm) with a voltmeter across the battery, or amp-meter in-line, as you pull and replace each fuse, have you recorded what voltage bumps, or current draw changes have occured for each circuit? because the one that causes the most significant bump is probably the circuit at fault. do you have multiple fuse / relay centers? for example, in my accord, there is one in the engine compartment, but then there are also two on each side of the lower dash. do you have any power windows, sunroof or seats? those would be my first suspect. another thing is possible here. that is your fuse / relay center is sitting in a moist environment and somehow shorting a hot circuit to ground. Replies to this message: 0patience (Mar 25, 2007 10:35 am) user777 (Mar 25, 2007 10:59 am) piratedave (Mar 26, 2007 5:08 pm) burdawg (Mar 26, 2007 8:05 pm) user777 (Mar 27, 2007 9:04 am)