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4955 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 9:56 AM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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#3268 of 4955 Rear Brakes on a VW Beetle??? by jonny5_24 Mar 14, 2007 (6:39 am)
How do I compress the cylinder? Is there some trick I am missing? Please help!!! Replies to this message: kiawah (Mar 14, 2007 3:09 pm) burdawg (Mar 15, 2007 5:31 am)
#3269 of 4955 2004 Grand Prix Cd Player by abc1923 Mar 14, 2007 (7:23 am)
Hello, I hope somebody can help me with this problem. On my Grand Prix, cd player suddenly stopped working. I can not even put cd in. It seems like two metal thing is not letting cd in. any ideas? Thank you
#3270 of 4955 Re: Rear Brakes on a VW Beetle??? [jonny5_24] by kiawah Mar 14, 2007 (3:09 pm)
Replying to: jonny5_24 (Mar 14, 2007 6:39 am) I haven't worked on a VW Beetle, but on all my other cars and trucks with disk brakes.......you simply put a large C-clamp on it and tighten it down slowly (the brake fluid will flow back up to the master cylinder). Take care not to crimp any of the gaskets with the clamp. One side of the clamp on the center of the cylinder, the other side on the back side of the caliper.
#3271 of 4955 Re: Rear Brakes on a VW Beetle??? [jonny5_24] by burdawg Mar 15, 2007 (5:31 am)
Replying to: jonny5_24 (Mar 14, 2007 6:39 am) You most likely need to turn the piston in with a special tool. On rear discs this is almost always the case unless there's a separate parking brake system (like in many MB's). You can get universal tools at most auto parts, and actually, I've made my own out of hardwood blocks.
#3272 of 4955 Exhaust Leak into Cooling System - Coincidence? by cslemaker Mar 15, 2007 (9:31 am)
I have a 1989 Trooper 4-cylinder. Is there any way the actions involved in disconnecting the stuff connected to or near the valve cover, removing the valve cover, adjusting the valves, then closing things back up could cause an exhaust leak into the coolant passages to develop? I had a valve adjustment performed and immediately thereafter noticed the temp gauge doing funny things. Under the hood I found that coolant had filled the reservoir and sprayed the engine and underside of the hood. After trying a few other things (such as a new radiator cap), my mechanic pulled the spark plugs, pressurized the cooling system, and informed me that one of the cylinders then contained coolant. (I would bet it was the same cylinder that had low compression and necessitated the valve adjustment. I would also bet that it was the exhaust valve causing the low compression.) I find it very hard to believe that this was 100% pure coincidence (valve adjust & exhaust leak). Thanks for your opinion and answer to my opening question.
#3273 of 4955 Using engine to brake? by billwv Mar 15, 2007 (10:48 am)
Hi, I didn't know where to post this question, but I am sure many here can answer. With an automatic transmission is it wise to shift to a lower gear when going down a hill to hold the car back and not have to use the brakes as much? For example: going down a 2 mile hill with 35 mph limit I shift my Scion xb with four speed automatic into 2nd gear. It will coast at just about 35 down the hill and I don't have to use the brakes. My brother says I will wear out the transmission -- I say they are designed for that -- who is right? Thanks, Bill Replies to this message: kiawah (Mar 15, 2007 12:16 pm) jipster (Mar 15, 2007 5:14 pm)
#3274 of 4955 Re: Using engine to brake? [billwv] by kiawah Mar 15, 2007 (12:16 pm)
Replying to: billwv (Mar 15, 2007 10:48 am) Brake pads are much cheaper and easier to replace, than transmission and engine wear. If I had a heavy vehicle in a lot of mountain passes I would consider it to keep from overheating the brakes (did this w/Suburban pulling a trailer), but normally you should just leave it in drive and use the brakes. Many years ago, I used to have an old SAAB V4 manual transmission, of which the transmission actually allowed the vehicle to overrun the engine (ie. no slowing the vehicle). I think it was called free-wheeling, IIRC. You actualy would just take your foot off the gas and the car would coast going down hill....then just put foot back on the gas to go up the next one. This enabled better mpg, and lower engine/transmission wear. That was one of the few good things that car did, but that is a whole another story. Replies to this message: jipster (Mar 15, 2007 5:14 pm)
#3275 of 4955 Re: Using engine to brake? [kiawah] by jipster Mar 15, 2007 (5:14 pm)
Replying to: kiawah (Mar 15, 2007 12:16 pm) Brakes are cheaper than a transmission, but if you lose your brakes from overheating going down a steep mountain road you're in big trouble. I'd check your owners manual. The manual on my 99 Buick Regal states not to drive in second gear for more than 25 miles or at speeds over 55mph. So, 35 mph should be safe.
#3276 of 4955 Which engine is better ? by jiamin Mar 16, 2007 (8:34 am)
Assume two engines are of the same displacement. One is V6 and the other is V8. Replies to this message: qbrozen (Mar 16, 2007 12:21 pm) Mr_Shiftright (Mar 16, 2007 1:29 pm)
#3277 of 4955 Re: Which engine is better ? [jiamin] by qbrozen Mar 16, 2007 (12:21 pm)
Replying to: jiamin (Mar 16, 2007 8:34 am) uhhh... can you give more details? Displacement isn't everything, and neither are cylinders. How is the fuel mileage in each? How much HP and torque in each? Should reliability be taken into account? What about weight?