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4963 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 5:02 AM

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#2019 of 4963 Re: failed emission test [tim5660] by crankshaft Sep 12, 2005 (4:58 pm)
Replying to: tim5660 (Sep 12, 2005 7:15 am) i got a feeling the O2 sensor may not have been hot enough due to waiting in line possibly.your high speed readings were great.maybe the engine was shut off in line.i would make sure you have clean engine oil in the engine,if you have to wait in line keep the engine running at a high idle to keep the O2 sensor good and hot.do not fill your gas tank immediately before your visit either.for the "retest"use gas which contains a small amount of alcohol(up to ten percent).i read that mixture helps lower emmisions.do not use high octane unless your manual calls for it or there is a detonation problem.high test may actually hurt the readings.after all this studying you should ace the exam. Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Sep 12, 2005 5:43 pm) alcan (Sep 13, 2005 2:09 am) tim5660 (Sep 14, 2005 3:39 pm) imidazol97 (Sep 14, 2005 4:27 pm)
#2020 of 4963 Re: failed emission test [crankshaft] by imidazol97 Sep 12, 2005 (5:43 pm)
Replying to: crankshaft (Sep 12, 2005 4:58 pm) I agree with all crank said. For our tests we used to have here in Ohio, adding a tank of fuel with alcohol in it and before the test driving a long distance before stopping at the emission test facility would help. I had a recent oil change and drove about 15 miles down the interstate and then would 3-4 miles to the check site.
#2021 of 4963 Ignition Distributor-90 Acura Integra? by krossover Sep 12, 2005 (6:31 pm)
So my check engine light came on then went away after I stopped and restarted the care but noticed a loud squeek coming out of the distributor. 2 days later the car died on me at night. After doing research on the net, I figured it might be a tune-up issue so I begin doing a tune up when I break the ignitor in the distributor. As I go to remove the ignitor I stripped the screw head so I fork up $75 to have a guy come check it out. Upon removing the entire disturbutor he tells me that it's FROZEN because he couldn't turn the rotor manually and that I would need an entire new Distributor. Then and there I became weary of what he said because when the rotor was in (before I broke the ignitor) it would rotate when I started the care. So my question(s) is: -Is it true that if you can't rotate the rotor manually when the distrutor is out, it is damaged and needs replacement with an entirely new one? -How reliable is an after market distributor in your opinion? Any help and/or advice greatly appreciated. Replies to this message: alcan (Sep 13, 2005 3:11 am)
#2022 of 4963 Re: How do you solve the real problem of sulfer smell by jbruce Feb 03, 2005 by jbruce [jbruce] by boomer9 Sep 12, 2005 (7:33 pm)
Replying to: jbruce (Feb 07, 2005 7:59 am) Did you ever get any results from this rotten egg smell issue? My daughter just purchased a 2006 Toyota Solara and is getting this same smell. WE had the problem with a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner in the family as well.
#2023 of 4963 Re: Two easy ones (I think) [210delray] by bolivar Sep 12, 2005 (9:56 pm)
Replying to: 210delray (Aug 29, 2005 8:03 pm) I've not been reading messages for a while, so maybe you have gotter later replys. I would trust the manual for the amount of oil to add. If you are using the recommended filter. One smaller might mean less oil is needed - a larger one might show the underfill you are seeing. The engineers that designed the motor should have given the spec for the manual. You might not even have a correct dipstick in the motor. Cadillac Northstars almost all give a half quart low reading when the recommended 7 1/2 quarts are used. All the dipsticks seem to be wrong. If you put more oil into a Northstar to the 'full' mark on the dipstick, it just pulls it through the PCV system and burns it.
#2024 of 4963 Re: Is power train fluid change needed on Corolla'03 @ 20K mi? [toyocor] by bolivar Sep 12, 2005 (9:59 pm)
Replying to: toyocor (Aug 30, 2005 8:02 am) Do you need to change the power steering fluid and have the injectors cleaned at 20,000 mile? No. Probably never need to have these services done.
#2025 of 4963 Re: 1992 Eagle Talon Brake Problems!!! [rhicon] by bolivar Sep 12, 2005 (10:07 pm)
Replying to: rhicon (Sep 01, 2005 4:33 pm) The disc rotors are probably warped. This causes 'pulsing' when braking. The noise may be the 'wear sensors' which make a noise when the brake pads are worn out. Have your brakes fixed. It will probably need new rotors and pads.
#2026 of 4963 Re: failed emission test [crankshaft] by alcan Sep 13, 2005 (2:09 am)
Replying to: crankshaft (Sep 12, 2005 4:58 pm) Good advice except for the O2 sensor temp. According to my info it uses a heated sensor.
#2027 of 4963 Re: Ignition Distributor-90 Acura Integra? [krossover] by alcan Sep 13, 2005 (3:11 am)
Replying to: krossover (Sep 12, 2005 6:31 pm) "-Is it true that if you can't rotate the rotor manually when the distrutor is out, it is damaged and needs replacement with an entirely new one?" The distributor housing has 2 bushings which support the shaft. There should be virtually no resistance to the shaft turning whith the distributor off the engine.
#2028 of 4963 Re: re mazda 626 atx [mazda626atx] by alcan Sep 13, 2005 (3:19 am)
Replying to: mazda626atx (Sep 12, 2005 9:20 am) Any cracks or other damage in the air intake system after the MAF will allow unmetered air to enter the engine, causing a lean condition and pretty much all the symptoms you describe. A leak in the air filter housing won't do it, but brings up another possibility. Most MAF's use a heated wire, with the ECM monitoring the current through it. As airflow increases, there's more cooling effect on the hot wire and decreased current flow through it. If unfiltered air has been pulled through, check for a dust bunny on the MAF hot wire. Will insulate it and cause your symptoms. Can usually be cleaned by a blast of aerosol air intake cleaner after removing the MAF sensor. Don't get too Rambo with it, the wire's pretty thin. Replies to this message: mazda626atx (Sep 13, 2005 8:16 am)