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4960 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:23 AM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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#2015 of 4960 re mazda 626 atx by mazda626atx Sep 12, 2005 (9:20 am)
Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF that I mentioned in post #1830. To repeat before I order the MAf do either of you think, that the air filter box being exposed (to the orange colored top of the filter that I can see in the front passenger side of the corner which is before MAF and the throttle housing could be the cause of any problems. Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it should. Could the air be coming in at the corner of the filter housing and be causing any problems? Would a lean air mixture cause loss of power in higher mountain ranges where air is even thinner? Also could MAF being out of whack for 3 months cause the newer symptom I described on may last day leaving Greece (on the way to airport car was shuddering a little at around 65 MPH and higher) After my wife dropped me off symptoms persisted till she got back to city and lower speeds (45 MPH ) and then car seemd fine to her aside from CEL. I am sending her back with new Filter and will examine closing of air filter box when I get back to Athens. Should I buy a new MAf just in case, and if the answer is yes, are the Bosch ones that I see online OK? Or do I need an OEM Mazda (remanufactured only ). Thx a lot Replies to this message: alcan (Sep 13, 2005 3:19 am) mazda626atx (Sep 13, 2005 8:16 am)
#2016 of 4960 Re: Oil pressure light won't go out after rebuild Geo Metro [sterjess] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Sep 12, 2005 (9:50 am)
Replying to: sterjess (Sep 11, 2005 6:37 pm) Well if you were getting NO oil pressure the engine would sound like the hammers of hell. Best thing you can do first off is screw in a regular oil pressure gauge and see how much pressure you have. Don't mess around with idiot lights at this point. If your gauge shows unacceptable oil pressure there is probably an assembly issue somewhere, yes. You might drop the pan if you can and check the oil pump pickup tube and screen.
#2017 of 4960 1995 Cadillac Deville shifting into gear when air is cold by jackiew Sep 12, 2005 (10:44 am)
I have a 1995 Cadillac and when the air temperature is cold outside, it will not shift into reverse or forward until it has warmed up for several minutes. One mechanic told me I needed to rebuild the transmission, but another retired mechanic feels that all it needs is to have the transmission filter replaced. Has anyone out there had similar problems with the cadillacs? And how was it resolved? Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Sep 12, 2005 2:12 pm)
#2018 of 4960 Re: 1995 Cadillac Deville shifting into gear when air is cold [jackiew] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Sep 12, 2005 (2:12 pm)
Replying to: jackiew (Sep 12, 2005 10:44 am) Sounds like a sluggish valve body. A trans. service might help. Back in more sexist times they used to call this "morning sickness". If nothing works you can drop the valve body and have it thoroughly cleaned I think without tearing into the transmission proper.
#2019 of 4960 Re: failed emission test [tim5660] by crankshaft Sep 12, 2005 (4:58 pm)
Replying to: tim5660 (Sep 12, 2005 7:15 am) i got a feeling the O2 sensor may not have been hot enough due to waiting in line possibly.your high speed readings were great.maybe the engine was shut off in line.i would make sure you have clean engine oil in the engine,if you have to wait in line keep the engine running at a high idle to keep the O2 sensor good and hot.do not fill your gas tank immediately before your visit either.for the "retest"use gas which contains a small amount of alcohol(up to ten percent).i read that mixture helps lower emmisions.do not use high octane unless your manual calls for it or there is a detonation problem.high test may actually hurt the readings.after all this studying you should ace the exam. Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Sep 12, 2005 5:43 pm) alcan (Sep 13, 2005 2:09 am) tim5660 (Sep 14, 2005 3:39 pm) imidazol97 (Sep 14, 2005 4:27 pm)
#2020 of 4960 Re: failed emission test [crankshaft] by imidazol97 Sep 12, 2005 (5:43 pm)
Replying to: crankshaft (Sep 12, 2005 4:58 pm) I agree with all crank said. For our tests we used to have here in Ohio, adding a tank of fuel with alcohol in it and before the test driving a long distance before stopping at the emission test facility would help. I had a recent oil change and drove about 15 miles down the interstate and then would 3-4 miles to the check site.
#2021 of 4960 Ignition Distributor-90 Acura Integra? by krossover Sep 12, 2005 (6:31 pm)
So my check engine light came on then went away after I stopped and restarted the care but noticed a loud squeek coming out of the distributor. 2 days later the car died on me at night. After doing research on the net, I figured it might be a tune-up issue so I begin doing a tune up when I break the ignitor in the distributor. As I go to remove the ignitor I stripped the screw head so I fork up $75 to have a guy come check it out. Upon removing the entire disturbutor he tells me that it's FROZEN because he couldn't turn the rotor manually and that I would need an entire new Distributor. Then and there I became weary of what he said because when the rotor was in (before I broke the ignitor) it would rotate when I started the care. So my question(s) is: -Is it true that if you can't rotate the rotor manually when the distrutor is out, it is damaged and needs replacement with an entirely new one? -How reliable is an after market distributor in your opinion? Any help and/or advice greatly appreciated. Replies to this message: alcan (Sep 13, 2005 3:11 am)
#2022 of 4960 Re: How do you solve the real problem of sulfer smell by jbruce Feb 03, 2005 by jbruce [jbruce] by boomer9 Sep 12, 2005 (7:33 pm)
Replying to: jbruce (Feb 07, 2005 7:59 am) Did you ever get any results from this rotten egg smell issue? My daughter just purchased a 2006 Toyota Solara and is getting this same smell. WE had the problem with a 2004 Toyota 4 Runner in the family as well.
#2023 of 4960 Re: Two easy ones (I think) [210delray] by bolivar Sep 12, 2005 (9:56 pm)
Replying to: 210delray (Aug 29, 2005 8:03 pm) I've not been reading messages for a while, so maybe you have gotter later replys. I would trust the manual for the amount of oil to add. If you are using the recommended filter. One smaller might mean less oil is needed - a larger one might show the underfill you are seeing. The engineers that designed the motor should have given the spec for the manual. You might not even have a correct dipstick in the motor. Cadillac Northstars almost all give a half quart low reading when the recommended 7 1/2 quarts are used. All the dipsticks seem to be wrong. If you put more oil into a Northstar to the 'full' mark on the dipstick, it just pulls it through the PCV system and burns it.
#2024 of 4960 Re: Is power train fluid change needed on Corolla'03 @ 20K mi? [toyocor] by bolivar Sep 12, 2005 (9:59 pm)
Replying to: toyocor (Aug 30, 2005 8:02 am) Do you need to change the power steering fluid and have the injectors cleaned at 20,000 mile? No. Probably never need to have these services done.