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4960 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:23 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
A Place to Post A Question That Doesn't Need a Discussion--Only One Quick Answer!
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Replying to: shanmac (Sep 11, 2005 6:50 pm) If AT IDLE with you looking in, I can tell you to eliminate BAD GAS If WHILE RUNNING, you can eliminate injectors So what you need to do is tell us if this is at IDLE or running, and if the noise increases steadily as you accelerate, and the noise decreases in frequency as you decelerate---or if the noise stays the same no matter what you do?
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Hello all, I have a question of why my oil pressure light won't go out after I just rebuilt my engine in my '92 Geo Metro. I used all standard size bearings. I pulled my oil pressure sending unit and started it to see if any oil is getting to it and oil started coming out of the hole so oil is being pumped, just not very much it seems. When I put it together I used assembly lube on all the bearings, could it be that this lube is blocking the passages some and might just take awhile of running to get through? I let it run for a minute or so and pulled my oil fill cap off to see if any oil was being thrown by the cam and it doesn't appear that it is. I also noticed when I was putting it together the oil passages on the head gasket I used didn't seem to be the same sizes as the passages on the head and block. The rebuild kit I used is by ITM if anyone has used them before. I've only let it run a couple of minutes since the rebuild but since the light isn't going off I'm not sure it's a good idea to let it run much more w/o knowing why it doesn't appear to have oil pressure. Any input would be appreciated.
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Replying to: alcan (Dec 28, 2003 9:05 pm) |
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Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF that I mentioned in post #1830. To repeat before I order the MAf do either of you think, that the air filter box being exposed (to the orange colored top of the filter that I can see in the front passenger side of the corner which is before MAF and the throttle housing could be the cause of any problems. Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it should. Could the air be coming in at the corner of the filter housing and be causing any problems? Would a lean air mixture cause loss of power in higher mountain ranges where air is even thinner? Also could MAF being out of whack for 3 months cause the newer symptom I described on may last day leaving Greece (on the way to airport car was shuddering a little at around 65 MPH and higher) After my wife dropped me off symptoms persisted till she got back to city and lower speeds (45 MPH ) and then car seemd fine to her aside from CEL. I am sending her back with new Filter and will examine closing of air filter box when I get back to Athens. Should I buy a new MAf just in case, and if the answer is yes, are the Bosch ones that I see online OK? Or do I need an OEM Mazda (remanufactured only ). Thx a lot
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Replying to: sterjess (Sep 11, 2005 6:37 pm) Best thing you can do first off is screw in a regular oil pressure gauge and see how much pressure you have. Don't mess around with idiot lights at this point. If your gauge shows unacceptable oil pressure there is probably an assembly issue somewhere, yes. You might drop the pan if you can and check the oil pump pickup tube and screen. |
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I have a 1995 Cadillac and when the air temperature is cold outside, it will not shift into reverse or forward until it has warmed up for several minutes. One mechanic told me I needed to rebuild the transmission, but another retired mechanic feels that all it needs is to have the transmission filter replaced. Has anyone out there had similar problems with the cadillacs? And how was it resolved?
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Replying to: jackiew (Sep 12, 2005 10:44 am) |
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Replying to: tim5660 (Sep 12, 2005 7:15 am) |
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Replying to: crankshaft (Sep 12, 2005 4:58 pm) |
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So my check engine light came on then went away after I stopped and restarted the care but noticed a loud squeek coming out of the distributor. 2 days later the car died on me at night. After doing research on the net, I figured it might be a tune-up issue so I begin doing a tune up when I break the ignitor in the distributor. As I go to remove the ignitor I stripped the screw head so I fork up $75 to have a guy come check it out. Upon removing the entire disturbutor he tells me that it's FROZEN because he couldn't turn the rotor manually and that I would need an entire new Distributor. Then and there I became weary of what he said because when the rotor was in (before I broke the ignitor) it would rotate when I started the care. So my question(s) is: -Is it true that if you can't rotate the rotor manually when the distrutor is out, it is damaged and needs replacement with an entirely new one? -How reliable is an after market distributor in your opinion? Any help and/or advice greatly appreciated.
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