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4960 messages, Last post on Nov 25, 2009 at 8:23 AM

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What is this discussion about? Brakes, Electrical, Engine, Exhaust

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#2007 of 4960 Re: 99 GMC Savanna--plugs??? [workdawg] by alcan Sep 11, 2005 (12:47 am)
Replying to: workdawg (Sep 09, 2005 12:38 pm) At the business end of the spark plug wires: http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/medium/0900823d8018ac4a.gif
#2008 of 4960 ml 320 by smallwood Sep 11, 2005 (4:39 am)
my 320 ml 2001, had a test done and the people told me it is the fuel trim ? what is a fuel trim and how do i fix it .... Replies to this message: alcan (Sep 12, 2005 4:22 am)
#2009 of 4960 94 Honda Passport engine tick by shanmac Sep 11, 2005 (6:50 pm)
Can anyone give a sugestion as to what the ticking is on my Passport??? Have been told 4 different things 1. the lifters 2. timing belt 3. the injectors 4. bad gas this has been going on for a couple of weeks and almost sounds like the fan blade hitting it's cover. Many thanks to those who can help!! Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Sep 12, 2005 7:37 am) shanmac (Sep 15, 2005 2:19 pm) Mr_Shiftright (Sep 16, 2005 10:27 am)
#2010 of 4960 Re: ml 320 [smallwood] by alcan Sep 12, 2005 (4:22 am)
Replying to: smallwood (Sep 11, 2005 4:39 am) There isn't "a fuel trim", it's a condition. The engine control computer turns fuel injectors on and off to provide the correct air/fuel mixture, based on inputs from several sensors monitoring engine operating conditions. After the fuel is burned, the oxygen sensors in the exhaust system send a signal back to the computer to fine tune the mixture. If the sensors signal back that there's excessive oxygen in the exhaust indicating a lean mixture, the computer will start increasing the amount of fuel supplied (+ fuel trim). If the sensors detect low oxygen indicating a rich mixture, the computer will decrease the fuel supplied (- fuel trim). If the computer reaches the limit of how much fuel it can add or take away, a code is set for fuel trim. If the code was for + trim, the engine's running lean. If the code was for - trim, the engine's running rich.
#2011 of 4960 failed emission test by tim5660 Sep 12, 2005 (7:15 am)
My 93 Toyota Land Cruiser failed the idle portion of the GA emission test. All other portions passed, but the CO% at idle is 1.70, while 1.20 is passing (the 2500rpm number was .003, with 1.20 to pass). They said it didn't contain enough air (?). I did an ignition tune up prior to the test, and have checked the air filter and cleaned the throttle body since, the attendant recommended high octane and injector cleaner to improve this. What else can I do, or is this something for a professional? Replies to this message: crankshaft (Sep 12, 2005 4:58 pm) imidazol97 (Sep 12, 2005 5:43 pm) alcan (Sep 13, 2005 2:09 am) tim5660 (Sep 14, 2005 3:39 pm) imidazol97 (Sep 14, 2005 4:27 pm)
#2012 of 4960 Re: 94 Honda Passport engine tick [shanmac] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Sep 12, 2005 (7:37 am)
Replying to: shanmac (Sep 11, 2005 6:50 pm) You hear this when your car is idling and you lift the hood and listen, or are you talking about hearing it as you are driving? If AT IDLE with you looking in, I can tell you to eliminate BAD GAS If WHILE RUNNING, you can eliminate injectors So what you need to do is tell us if this is at IDLE or running, and if the noise increases steadily as you accelerate, and the noise decreases in frequency as you decelerate---or if the noise stays the same no matter what you do? Replies to this message: shanmac (Sep 15, 2005 2:19 pm) Mr_Shiftright (Sep 16, 2005 10:27 am)
#2013 of 4960 Oil pressure light won't go out after rebuild Geo Metro by sterjess Sep 11, 2005 (6:37 pm)
Hello all, I have a question of why my oil pressure light won't go out after I just rebuilt my engine in my '92 Geo Metro. I used all standard size bearings. I pulled my oil pressure sending unit and started it to see if any oil is getting to it and oil started coming out of the hole so oil is being pumped, just not very much it seems. When I put it together I used assembly lube on all the bearings, could it be that this lube is blocking the passages some and might just take awhile of running to get through? I let it run for a minute or so and pulled my oil fill cap off to see if any oil was being thrown by the cam and it doesn't appear that it is. I also noticed when I was putting it together the oil passages on the head gasket I used didn't seem to be the same sizes as the passages on the head and block. The rebuild kit I used is by ITM if anyone has used them before. I've only let it run a couple of minutes since the rebuild but since the light isn't going off I'm not sure it's a good idea to let it run much more w/o knowing why it doesn't appear to have oil pressure. Any input would be appreciated. Replies to this message: Mr_Shiftright (Sep 12, 2005 9:50 am)
#2014 of 4960 1995 Cadillac DeVille Transmission Problem by jackiew Sep 12, 2005 (9:08 am)
Replying to: alcan (Dec 28, 2003 9:05 pm) I have a 1995 Cadillac and when the air temperature is cold outside, it will not shift into reverse or forward until it has warmed up for several minutes. One mechanic told me I needed to rebuild the transmission, but another retired mechanic feels that all it needs is to have the transmission filter replaced. Has anyone out there had similar problems with the cadillacs? And how was it resolved?
#2015 of 4960 re mazda 626 atx by mazda626atx Sep 12, 2005 (9:20 am)
Alcan and Mr shiftright if you remember the troubles I was having with the CEL and drawing code 159 MAF that I mentioned in post #1830. To repeat before I order the MAf do either of you think, that the air filter box being exposed (to the orange colored top of the filter that I can see in the front passenger side of the corner which is before MAF and the throttle housing could be the cause of any problems. Alcan you say a lot of times the intake housing has cracks and is taking in more air than it should. Could the air be coming in at the corner of the filter housing and be causing any problems? Would a lean air mixture cause loss of power in higher mountain ranges where air is even thinner? Also could MAF being out of whack for 3 months cause the newer symptom I described on may last day leaving Greece (on the way to airport car was shuddering a little at around 65 MPH and higher) After my wife dropped me off symptoms persisted till she got back to city and lower speeds (45 MPH ) and then car seemd fine to her aside from CEL. I am sending her back with new Filter and will examine closing of air filter box when I get back to Athens. Should I buy a new MAf just in case, and if the answer is yes, are the Bosch ones that I see online OK? Or do I need an OEM Mazda (remanufactured only ). Thx a lot Replies to this message: alcan (Sep 13, 2005 3:19 am) mazda626atx (Sep 13, 2005 8:16 am)
#2016 of 4960 Re: Oil pressure light won't go out after rebuild Geo Metro [sterjess] by Mr_Shiftright HOST Sep 12, 2005 (9:50 am)
Replying to: sterjess (Sep 11, 2005 6:37 pm) Well if you were getting NO oil pressure the engine would sound like the hammers of hell. Best thing you can do first off is screw in a regular oil pressure gauge and see how much pressure you have. Don't mess around with idiot lights at this point. If your gauge shows unacceptable oil pressure there is probably an assembly issue somewhere, yes. You might drop the pan if you can and check the oil pump pickup tube and screen.