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Vans & Minivans Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan 2005+
1422 messages, Last post on Sep 25, 2009 at 8:55 AM
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Replying to: marine2 (Feb 05, 2006 10:36 pm) If an engine is consuming oil, I would think that a lighter weight oil might pass through easier. |
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An important point to remember is that those oils are both 5 Weight oils. True, the 5W-20 theoretically thins out less than does 5W-30 when hot, but they are both still 5W oils. A couple of posts back made an interesting point about the differences in the composition of the two oils, and to me at least, the difference didn't sound all that great. Question: Which is thinner, 0W-40 or 5W-30? Answer: 0W-40 Frogger123, if you want to put a REAL oil in your van, you might want to consider Mobil 1 0W-30 or even 0W-40 (a markedly better oil than even the 0W-30). Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: gowmtribe (Nov 28, 2005 5:47 pm) |
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Replying to: shipo (Feb 06, 2006 9:08 pm) |
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Replying to: frogger123 (Feb 06, 2006 9:44 pm) 0W oil flows better when cold meaning that the oil in your engine is already flowing before the engine has even started, even in frigid arctic conditions. In the case of Mobil-1, their 0W oils meet the following specifications: 0W-30 - GM 6094M, GM 4718M (Corvette spec) - Ford WSS-M2C929-A - ILSAC GF-4 - API SM/CF - ACEA A1/B1 0W-40 - Mercedes MB 229.5 - BMW Longlife 01 - Porsche Approval List 2002 - VW 502.00/505.00/503.01 - GM-LL-A-025 (gasoline) - GM-LL-B-025 (diesel) - ACEA A3, B3/B4 - API SM/CF1 This means that these two oils happen to have the most certifications of any other Mobil-1. In theory, I doubt that 0W oils have much of an advantage beyond the cold start, however, due to the extra additive packages that Mobil puts in their 0Ws, they happen to be their best oils. For our two DGCs, I use 0W-30 when I can find it, otherwise I use 5W-30, which by the way only carries the following certifications: - GM 6094M, GM 4718M (Corvette spec) - Ford WSS-M2C929-A - ACEA A1/B1 - ILSAC GF-4 (API Certified - Starburst) Best Regards, Shipo |
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| Need advice. I am selling in N.J., my 2004 Touring, white, 11,600 miles, excellent condition, power liftgate, power doors, trac control, clean title. On trade the dealer is offering $14,200. What would be a fair selling price if put in local paper? The depreciation rate is amazing on this van, orig msrp was $31k. | |
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Replying to: marine2 (Feb 05, 2006 2:04 pm) 
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Replying to: fish8 (Feb 07, 2006 8:02 am) Best Regards, Shipo |
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Replying to: shipo (Feb 07, 2006 8:13 am)
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Replying to: shipo (Feb 07, 2006 4:10 am) Mobil 1 0W-40 is a European spec formula which emphasizes engine protection and long oil life instead of maximum fuel economy, which is typical of most European spec oils (although you indicate it DOES pass the SAE "SM" requirement, which has at least some fuel economy - friction modifier - requirements). One of the things I learned about this oil, when I had a couple of VW's that required it, is that it is formulated at the "thin" end of the 40 weight specification, so it is only a little thicker than a typical 30 weight oil, and should therefore have a neglible effect on mileage. BTW, unless an oil is loaded up with unstable viscosity index improvers, which a full synthetic won't be, the important number for "warmed up" operations is the second number - don't get scared off by the "0" part of the multi-grade (or by the "5" in typical oils). True, if you are buying a cheap dino oil (house brand Autozone, or Walmart's Supertech), then a 10-30 might hold its viscosity on the freeway in the desert better than a 5-30 from the same blender, and might be closer to "30" after 3,000-5,000 miles of driving have sheared down the viscoscity index improvers - but if you have full synthetic, those oild WILL stand up to heat better, hold their grade a lot longer, and seldom shear down to a thinner weight. That's one of the reasons I think full synthetic oil changes are the way to go, and since Walmart offers them for about $30 including parts (the oil itself is $25-28 of that, depending on the current sale price for the oil), labor, and fluid top-offs, there's no real financial reason for shortchanging the quality of lubricants we run in our vehicles.
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