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Chrysler Town & Country and Dodge Grand Caravan 2005+

1422 messages, Last post on Sep 25, 2009 at 8:55 AM
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Replying to: marine2 (Feb 03, 2006 11:33 pm) |
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Replying to: gctony (Feb 04, 2006 9:45 pm)
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Replying to: frogger123 (Feb 05, 2006 9:12 pm) I was quite concerned using that light weight of oil in my van as I live in Phoenix and it can get up 120 in the summer. But the service tech said it was ok. Our 2004 Civic also says to use 5W20.
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Replying to: marine2 (Feb 05, 2006 2:04 pm) In contrast, my 2006 Sienna LE has a VERY attractive interior but the exterior styling is NOT as attractive as DC minivans. The HVAC and stereo controls on the Sienna are NOT as user friendly as those on my 2002 T&C LX. I hope my 2006 Sienna is as reliable in 4 years as is my 2002 T&C. |
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Replying to: marine2 (Feb 05, 2006 10:36 pm) General consensus is that the specification for 5-20 is impossible to meet, unless the oil is mostly synthetic. General consensus is that 5-20 oil is designed to fall at the high end of permissible weight for a 20 weight, not that far from the bottom end of 30 weight oils. Most 5-20 formulations are supposed to be very resistant to shearing and loss of viscoscity, since the formulations use a lot of high viscoscity index synthetic base stock. So, once again, the the debate between the "20" and "30" is not so easy to resolve. However, an extreme ambient temperature such as the 120 degree summer is certainly a factor in choosing oils. My preference if I were in Phoenix would be to play it safe and use Mobil 1 5-20 which is a full synthetic, or even Mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic. Each are very well engineered, and we all know that the 5-20 spec if there more to save gas than save engines, and that the 3.8 WILL still take 5-30 oil. I would try to get your dealer's ok; when Ford owners faced this dilemma several years back, the Ford customer service line told customers they could run any oil approved by their dealer without risking voiding the warranty. Alternatively, do 3,000 mile oil changes instead of 6,000 mile changes. 3,000 mile changes are pushed very hard by the current (2006) owner's manual. |
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Replying to: marine2 (Feb 05, 2006 10:36 pm) If an engine is consuming oil, I would think that a lighter weight oil might pass through easier. |
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An important point to remember is that those oils are both 5 Weight oils. True, the 5W-20 theoretically thins out less than does 5W-30 when hot, but they are both still 5W oils. A couple of posts back made an interesting point about the differences in the composition of the two oils, and to me at least, the difference didn't sound all that great. Question: Which is thinner, 0W-40 or 5W-30? Answer: 0W-40 Frogger123, if you want to put a REAL oil in your van, you might want to consider Mobil 1 0W-30 or even 0W-40 (a markedly better oil than even the 0W-30). Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: gowmtribe (Nov 28, 2005 5:47 pm) |
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Replying to: shipo (Feb 06, 2006 9:08 pm) |
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Replying to: frogger123 (Feb 06, 2006 9:44 pm) 0W oil flows better when cold meaning that the oil in your engine is already flowing before the engine has even started, even in frigid arctic conditions. In the case of Mobil-1, their 0W oils meet the following specifications: 0W-30 - GM 6094M, GM 4718M (Corvette spec) - Ford WSS-M2C929-A - ILSAC GF-4 - API SM/CF - ACEA A1/B1 0W-40 - Mercedes MB 229.5 - BMW Longlife 01 - Porsche Approval List 2002 - VW 502.00/505.00/503.01 - GM-LL-A-025 (gasoline) - GM-LL-B-025 (diesel) - ACEA A3, B3/B4 - API SM/CF1 This means that these two oils happen to have the most certifications of any other Mobil-1. In theory, I doubt that 0W oils have much of an advantage beyond the cold start, however, due to the extra additive packages that Mobil puts in their 0Ws, they happen to be their best oils. For our two DGCs, I use 0W-30 when I can find it, otherwise I use 5W-30, which by the way only carries the following certifications: - GM 6094M, GM 4718M (Corvette spec) - Ford WSS-M2C929-A - ACEA A1/B1 - ILSAC GF-4 (API Certified - Starburst) Best Regards, Shipo |
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