Last post on Oct 28, 2013 at 1:21 PM
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Lincoln Town Car, Auto Body, Engine, Suspension, Sedan
#633 of 1123 mass air flow sensor??
Jul 24, 2007 (7:14 am)
I have a 1992 Lincoln Town Car which ran great till we replaced the air filter,4 months ago.as soon as we started it afterwards,it ran just awful.we figured out that it was the mass air flow sensor,so we bought a new one and put it in.now,the car runs fine under acceleration,but will die when coasting,and we have to pull over and restart it.according to what i've read just browsing the internet,this still sounds like the mass air flow sensor,but how could this be the problem?does anyone have any suggestions what may be causing this? thanks for your replies. karen
#634 of 1123 Re: mass air flow sensor?? [nsks475]
Jul 24, 2007 (11:07 am)
Our 94 TC's fuel filter was replaced when the Mass Air Flow Sensor was replaced. How old is your fuel filter? Ours is located under the car on the side, but I forget which side.
#635 of 1123 Re: mass air flow sensor?? [euphonium]
Jul 24, 2007 (5:39 pm)
we haven't replaced the fuel filter.i guess we can try that and see what happens.it couldn't hurt,anyways,and maybe it'll fix the problem. thanks. karen
Jul 28, 2007 (3:04 pm)
hi i have an issue if anyone can help? i have a 96 town car and there is a coolant hose that goes from where the water pump is underneath the intake manifold. were does this hose go? can i replace it without taking off the intake manifold? also the brake lines that go under the body on driverside rear any help would be appricated. thank you lonnie
#637 of 1123 Re: intake hose [lonnieamcon]
Jul 29, 2007 (5:59 am)
Unfortunately, I've been down this road before. On my 93 the intake manifold (plenum) had to be removed. You're looking at around $500 for a shop to do it. I believe the hose connects to a metal heater line directly under the manifold where you can't get to it. The hose is connected at this point by a metal crimp.
I believe they usually start leaking at the crimp point. It starts slowly and progresses. At first you won't see any coolant underneath because it stays in the v of the engine block. But you'll smell that tell tale odor of leaking coolant.
You have four options at this point. 1. If you don't ever use the heater you may be able to cap off the water pump outlet and the heater for a cheap fix. 2. Sell the car and let the next guy worry about it. 3. Live with it for maybe another 6 months until it gets serious . 3. Fix it right away.
To fix it you'll have to remove the plenum and everything connected to it. Cut the metal tube at the crimp point as the crimp can't be reused. Put a new hose on with a new metal clamp at both ends. Replace the plenum, reconnect everything and hope a pray it doesn't happen again while you still own the car.
I've commented on the stupidity of this design before. I would never buy a car/truck with this setup again. Most owners don't know about this expensive problem just waiting to happen. It's not a matter of if... but when. Rubber wears out and leaks. Why you have to go thru all this nonsense is beyond me.
#638 of 1123 Re: intake hose [peachpie5254]
Jul 29, 2007 (8:11 am)
thanks peachpie5254 for the info this helps narrow my options. if you have another comment on another factory ideal as to the metal brake lines the run along the frame rail (thats fine) until it gets to the rear wheelwell and then goes under the body between it and the frame rail any way to change theses with out lifting the body? any info on this issue would be appreciated also.
#639 of 1123 Lincoln 4.6 Under The Intake Hose
Jul 30, 2007 (1:58 pm)
I have replaced a number of these hoses without using the expensive Ford/Lincoln hose and without removing the intake manifold. It takes a little more than an hour to make this fix. Procedure: Disconnect battery at the negative post; Remove the black structure that is on the top of the engine; Slip the serpentine belt off of the alternator; remove the alternator; drain about a half gallon of coolant out of the radiator; slip the hose clamp off of the hose that is connected behind the water pump; cut the hose using a box cutter or hawkbill as far as you can under the manifold and remove it; at the other end of the hose at the fire wall, disconnect and remove the hose from the heater core. You will need to buy a piece of heater hose about 4 feet long. The diameter has to match the size of the hose that fits the connection at the water pump. You will need a piece of "L" shaped hose that looks similar to the piece that was removed from the fire wall. In most instances I've had to destroy the old hose to get it off. This small hose has to be the same diameter as the hose removed from the heater connection. Because the hoses will not be the same size, you will have to buy an adapter to fit one end of the 4 foot hose and the end of the "L" shaped hose. Push the 4 foot hose under the manifold. It will pass beside the old hose. It will come to the back of the engine where you can pull it over near the heater connection. At the heater connection, clamp on the "L" shaped hose. Place the adapter in the other end of the "L" shaped hose; Put the hose clamps on; Cut the 4 foot hose to the length needed to fit the connector. Refill the coolant tank, reconnect and reassemble and you are ready to go. By the way, does your 96 have the all plastic black manifold? If it does then you may be looking at replacing it. They have a tendency to crack. It takes about four hours to replace it.
#640 of 1123 Re: check trac, zero temp 2000 TC [adjuster]
Aug 12, 2007 (1:58 am)
Hi Idowling, Did the problem ever come back? I am driving a 2002 TC in Amsterdam Holland and this weeek the same problem occured while I was driving on the freeway, after restarting the engine the check trac light was off and the temp was as normal, within 2 minutes it came back on again and the temp meter showed zero degrees again,
On several forums I have placed this problem but have no solution yet,
maybe you can help,
greetings from Amsterdam,
#641 of 1123 Re: check trac, zero temp 2000 TC [rijk0291]
Aug 12, 2007 (6:15 am)
Hi; Yes I finally did find the solution to this problem. I posted the solution earlier, I guess you didn't see that. The cause is a bad spark plug coil and spark plug covered with rust, leaking spark to the engine block. It will usually be the one on the passenger side-rear of the engine, the #4 coil, but one other person I know of had the other side rear coil bad, the #8 coil. The coil will cost about $50.00 at Auto-Zone. This problem is caused by water getting into the deep hole that the spark plug and coil sit in on top of the engine. Check the heater hoses for a leak and fix that if needed. I found no heater hose leak on my car and suspect that rain water gets into the engine compartment and leaks into the rear spark plug holes as the engine slants down lower at the rear. Fix this now, I didn't fix this soon enough and had to replace the transmission because this problem also causes rough shifting which broke the gears in my transmission. I also had to replace one cat because unburned fuel wrecks that too. /\/\ark
#642 of 1123 Re: check trac, zero temp 2000 TC [adjuster]
Aug 12, 2007 (11:20 pm)
Thanks a lot Mark, I am now going to work on the car, I did had a bad coil about a year ago, but the engine ran on 7 cylinders then and did not stall, so I didn`t think it was same problem, I will surely check for leaks,
greetings from Amsterdam,