Last post on Oct 08, 2013 at 2:43 PM
You are in the Lexus RX 300/330/350
What is this discussion about?
Lexus RX 330
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#1858 of 1867 Re: RX330 power windows [jodar96]
Feb 18, 2013 (6:52 pm)
After having my dead battery replaced on my RX330, none of the windows worked from the master control panel. After doing what you suggested, opening all doors etc., all windows can once again be controlled from the driver's side panel. Thank you so much!
#1859 of 1867 A few more points
Feb 21, 2013 (8:08 am)
Thank you kyra9ts for the kind words. I did buy the 2005 RX-330 I was looking at, and I've had it now for over six months and still like driving it, as I expected I would. It had the towing package factory-installed (transmission cooler behind the left-front bumper, high-capacity alternator, etc), all but the trailer hitch itself, which I recently added. The Draw-Tite brand hitch is available all over the web, is a Class III hitch that matches the specs on the RX, 350 lb tongue weight, and 3,500 lb towing limit, and it was an easy install, bolting right in place. Prices vary, but the hitch itself is the same everywhere (Draw-Tite P/N 75153), so search for price, reputation, and delivery fees.
I need to do the wiring yet, which is a pain, but necessary. If you have the towing package factory-installed, you don't need to add the wiring harnesses that include a "black box" and a wire that needs to be hooked up to the battery. "Etrailer" makes an inexpensive wiring kit that simply clamps onto the existing wiring (behind the panels and under the cargo floor; installation detailed elsewhere in these logs), and their part number is 118002. Normally, this part number does not come up on most web sites. Rather, the harness/black-box arrangement does, so search for the P/N if you already have the heavy-duty alternator installed as part of the factory-installed towing package: if you have an auxiliary radiator behind the hole in the left-front bumper, you probably have the factory towing package.
Prior to buying the truck/vehicle, I didn't know about the rack steering box problems, and so didn't check under the truck/vehicle for leaks. Nor did I check the power steering fluid because it sits under the engine cover on the passenger side, and unless you remove that cover you can neither check the level nor top it off. My Lexus dealer's mechanic was very helpful. He told me it was expensive, but he could get an after-market, new rack for a lot less money than the Lexus replacement rack, and I gave him the go-ahead. I'll presume that the part he got was a Toyota or OEM part, but regardless, he saved me about $500 on the replacement.
I also had a bad ballast on the drivers side. I bought a replacement OEM ballast, and replaced it myself, saving about $1,000 over the dealer replacement process (parts and labor). It was actually pretty simple following instructions also in these pages, and anyone who knows the difference between a half-inch socket and a half-inch drive can probably accomplish the whole process fairly easily.
One point to make. My ballast was ruined not by a leaking bezel or headlight cover, but by water that splashed up from the road to the underside of the truck, judging by the sand and grit inside the ballast itself. It's not sealed, you see, and while plain, clear water normally won't hurt low-voltage electronics, in FL, near the beaches we occasionally get salt-water splashing up, which will corrode components. Anyway, corrosion was everywhere inside the ballast even though nothing else penetrated the headlight housing (or fogged the lenses).
The ballast is enclosed on five sides (fours ides and the top) by the stamped/cast case, with an aluminum cover over the remaining side, which as I noted is not sealed, and, horror of horrors, is facing downwards with nothing between it and the road except for the air-space between them, making it a magnet for anything that splashes upwards. With the new ballast, I sealed the only un-sealed portion of the case with RTV/sealant, which was right around the edge of the cover where it met the case. It looked a little rough (okay, sloppy) when I finished, but effectively made the whole thing a sealed unit, which, barring any failing components, will probably last longer than the truck itself. Also seal the area where the wires exit the case with the same goop!
You don't need to pot the entire ballast as some manufacturers claim to do, and the stamped/cast case is a sufficient heat-sink to keep it running cool forever, so sealing the case should not cause any undue heating problems.
In the process of replacing my ballast I took a ton of pictures and did a nice write-up of the process, but couldn't figure out how to get the word doc posted, so didn't. If anyone is interested, either put up a simple "how-to" and I'll post the whole thing as a word doc. The major problem with this chat is that you can't post but a few pictures, so it's not possible to put the whole thing into the chat itself (unless you're a moderator or whatever) with narrative - picture - narrative - picture, etc. which is a drag when you've got a series of steps to describe. If anyone knows a good way to post this doc, email me and I'll send it to you and you can post it! If anyone just wants a copy of the doc, email me and I'll send it directly.
Been fun sharing.
#1860 of 1867 Re: Rattle [rx330_2005]
Apr 27, 2013 (11:46 am)
Hi, I had the same thing. My 04 Lexus RX330 had the same rattling noise. it seemed under the driver seat. I didn't know what it was in the beginning till I looked under the car and realized that there is a plastic flap that in hitting the underbody of the car when driving over 40MPH (it was gas tank under body protector/shield). I went to the dealership and they said they can modify it, what they did is just cut the tip of the flap to make it shorter, they tried to charge me $35 for cutting a piece of plastic that I could of done it myself. Just cut the tip off (modify it), or buy and new shorter gas tank under body protector for $400.
#1862 of 1867 Re: A few more points [paul1307]
Jun 30, 2013 (10:24 am)
I would appreciate very much the pics and writeup of the RX330 ballast replacement in the word doc
#1864 of 1867 Re: A few more points [paul1307]
Aug 08, 2013 (1:29 pm)
I would be most interested in your doc with pictures on how to replace the ballast. In addition I would be interested to know where you bought your ballast and part number or something so I would know what to buy. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
#1865 of 1867 Re: A few more points [paul1307]
Aug 09, 2013 (9:40 pm)
I too would be very grateful if you could share your notes and pictures on how to change the ballast. I am not a pro in auto repairs but think that with decent instructions and lots of pictures I should be able to do it. Also, where you bought the ballast and the part number would be extremely helpful.
#1867 of 1867 Re: A few more points [paul1307]
Oct 08, 2013 (2:43 pm)
Hey paul1307, just saw this post about replacing ballast on 04 rx330, can you provide me with doc on how to do it? thanks p.s. you post says to email you, how do I do that?