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Maintenance & Repair Maintenance & Repair - Archived Discussions Don't see a discussion that covers your problem? Suggest it here. 
13 messages, Last post on Dec 27, 2003 at 7:09 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair - Archived Discussions Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
This discussion is ARCHIVED. To reactivate the discussion, post a request in the Lost? Ask the M&R Host for directions! discussion.
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I've moved your question about your Cadillac turn signal problems to our "Electrical Gremlins" topic, which is here: Electrical Gremlins MrShiftright Host |
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Hi folks, I have a 1996 Toyota Paseo that was recently fully serviced at a Toyota Dealership, including a power steering flush. When I drive the car, I occassionaly get a "chirping" sound from the front left (driver) wheel area. It's quite hard to peg down what the sound is exactly. Also: - it's not always there! Seems more prevalent in cold conditions. Once the car is warmed up, or after highway driving, it fades away. - it increases/decreases in speed (the chirping) based on how fast I go. - it seems to become more pronounced when turning. In fact, in the early stages it only did it if the wheel was off center position. Any ideas?I want to sell the car and don't want to spend a lot more money on maintenance after spending 1200 Canadian 2 months ago :\ Best Regards Jarrett |
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I have a 2002 Chevy Trailblazer. Can someone tell me how to adjust the parking brake? The cable has stretched and no longer engages the brake. Thanks for your help! |
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tblazer---you might want to check in with the TB Owner's Club: Chevy Trailblazer Owners shroud -- very tough to diagnose "sounds" on the Internet. You might have the front brake pads checked for a loose anti-rattler; also a wheel bearing comes to mind perhaps. We currently don't have any Paseo discussions because the car hasn't been produced for 5-6 years now. MrShiftright Host |
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Document ID# 746217 2002 Chevrolet TrailBlazer - 2WD Inspect the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir. If the brake fluid is midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, no brake fluid needs to be removed from the reservoir before proceeding. If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, using a appropriate tool, remove the brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding. Raise the vehicle and secure it safely. Index and remove the tire and wheel assembly. Remove the rear brake caliper assembly, relocate the brake caliper to the side. Notice Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent, whenever it is separated from its mount and the hydraulic flexible brake hose is still connected. Failure to support the caliper in this manner will cause the flexible brake hose to bear the weight of the caliper, which may cause damage to the brake hose and in turn may cause a brake fluid leak Remove the rear brake pads from the mounting bracket. Remove the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Remove the brake rotor retaining clips, if equipped. Notice Whenever the rotor has been separated from the axle flange, clean any rust or foreign material from the mating surface of the axle flange and brake rotor. Failure to do this may result in increased lateral runout of the rotor and brake pulsation. Important If the brake rotor is not going to be replaced but just removed from the hub, mark the brake rotor left or right and relationship of the brake rotor and a wheel stud. In doing so, is will reduce the possibility of vibration in the brake system. Remove the brake rotor. Rotate the park brake adjusting nut until a light drag is felt between the shoes and rotor. J 21177-A drum-to-shoe clearance gauge is recommended. Proper clearance between rotor and shoe is .025" Apply high temperature silicone brake lubricant to the brake caliper guide pins. DO NOT apply the lubricant to the brake pad retaining clips. Install the brake caliper mounting bracket. Tighten the caliper mounting bracket bolts to 70 N·m (52 lb ft). Install the rear brake pads to the mounting bracket. Install the rear brake caliper on the mounting bracket. Tighten the brake caliper mounting bolts to 31 N·m (23 lb ft). Install the wheel and tire, observing the index marks. Tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 140 N·m (103 lb ft). Install the wheel hub cap, if equipped. Lower the vehicle. Caution Do not move the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is obtained. Failure to obtain a firm pedal before moving vehicle may result in personal injury. Pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly in order to seat the brake pads. |
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Where is discussion on detailing cars? I would like to discuss how northerners with nice cars can wash and detail their cars during the winter, possibly in the absence of a heated garage. Can I wax at 34F? That sort of thing. Didn't really see a topic for it... |
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I think the various Zaino and non-Zaino topics pretty much cover it, but if you want to do a search on "detailing", and you see an archived topic you think would be of interest, let me know back here and I will activate it for you. Shifty the Host |
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There's also Paint and Body Maintenance & Repair, which has more general talk. kirstie_h Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host |
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A member of another automotive site posted this one today. Funny as ****, but obviously doesn't reflect on anyone here at Edmunds'. How many forum members does it takes to change a light bulb? 1 to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed 14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light bulb could have been changed differently 7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs 1 to move it to the Lighting section 2 to argue then move it to the Electricals section 7 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light bulbs 5 to flame the spell checkers 3 to correct spelling/grammar flames 6 to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" ... another 6 to condemn those 6 as stupid 2 industry professionals to inform the group that the proper term is "lamp" 15 know-it-alls who claim they were in the industry, and that "light bulb" is perfectly correct 19 to post that this forum is not about light bulbs and to please take this discussion to a lightbulb forum 11 to defend the posting to this forum saying that we all use light bulbs and therefore the posts are relevant to this forum 36 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this technique and what brands are faulty 7 to post URL's where one can see examples of different light bulbs 4 to post that the URL's were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected URL's 3 to post about links they found from the URL's that are relevant to this group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group 13 to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all headers and signatures, and add "Me too" 5 to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot handle the light bulb controversy 4 to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?" 13 to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions about light bulbs" 1 forum lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now and start it all over again. |
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