Last post on Apr 11, 2012 at 9:56 PM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair
What is this discussion about?
Lights, Electrical, Interior, Car Warranties, Coupe, Convertible, Hatchback, Truck, Sedan, Wagon, SUV, Van
#1 of 94 no start, no instrument panel
Nov 11, 2003 (9:46 am)
My 1997 bravada will turn over but there are no instrument cluster readings. After jiggling every electrical connection under the hood, eventually instrument cluster activates (or relay warms up?) and engine fires right up. any suggestions ?
#2 of 94 open all the connectors up
Nov 11, 2003 (1:43 pm)
one at a time, of course... put a little dielectric grease on each connector finger... and then mate-open-mate the connectors several times to scrape light tin oxide corrosion off and coat the metal with the dielectric grease.
if that doesn't do it, or if you see some really colored connector fingers instead of metal-looking, scrape 'em down with a penknife, then repeat 1st paragraph.
#3 of 94 Temp Gauge went haywire
Nov 14, 2003 (8:50 am)
10 mins before my alternator went out in my 1999 Olds Alero the temp gauge needle started going up and down and then it reversed. So now that I have a new alternator, I thought every thing would go back to normal, but it didn't. The temp gauge needle sits on the otherside of the H and C. Whats the solution?
#4 of 94 you mean like the short end of the needle is between H and C
Nov 14, 2003 (6:47 pm)
and the long end points way out to inaction junction 180 degrees away? that's not good. that's a dead gauge and sure enough. will require removing the IP, removing the wiring board from behind it, and then replacing the gauge in many instances.
if the gauge is stuck between H and C and doesn't move, it could be a dead gauge or a dead function out of the engine control computer.
I don't like the sound of this. there MIGHT be some hope... a blown ground wire or a dead fuse.
Replies to this message:
- zitface (Oct 23, 2003 11:27 pm)
- Mr_Shiftright (Oct 24, 2003 12:28 pm)
- swschrad (Oct 24, 2003 3:45 pm)
- Mr_Shiftright (Oct 24, 2003 7:13 pm)
- swschrad (Oct 24, 2003 9:55 pm)
- zitface (Oct 29, 2003 8:00 am)
- swschrad (Oct 29, 2003 12:29 pm)
- Mr_Shiftright (Oct 30, 2003 4:49 pm)
- karnane (Nov 14, 2003 3:51 pm)
- swschrad (Nov 14, 2003 6:51 pm)
- gudge (Oct 15, 2004 11:49 am)
#6 of 94 Instrument and running lights no worky.
Oct 23, 2003 (11:27 pm)
Out of the blue my instrument and running lights went out. I thought.. oh it is a fuse. (which from my past experiences has been the case) All fuses look good and I see nothing obvious wrong.
Can anyone provide some input as to what else to look for?
Oct 24, 2003 (12:28 pm)
Well the only thing that controls both of those functions would be the headlight switch.
#8 of 94 or possibly a relay or ground point
Oct 24, 2003 (3:45 pm)
but it would be useful in your case to scare up a wiring diagram of the appropriate circuits and start chasing continuity.
just for the randy hell of it, what year and model ford ya got, because there are boarders with manuals out there....
Oct 24, 2003 (7:13 pm)
yeah, but....when you turn the light switch to the first position, what goes on? Right...running lights and instrument lights. I think the answer is jumping up and down and waving its hand here...
(the eternal optimist).
Do you use a relay on dinky instrument lights?
#10 of 94 ford has had a number of light switch issues in the 80s and 90s
Oct 24, 2003 (9:55 pm)
so that's a real good place to start looking, I agree. quite possibly, worth replacing that switch on spec just because they almost got pushed into a recall on those switches, like the ignition switches.
but if that doesn't do it, you're back to slogging along with test lights.