Last post on Jun 12, 2012 at 11:02 PM
You are in the Prices Paid - Buying & Leasing Experiences
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Nissan Titan, Truck
#551 of 828 Getting a great price for a Titam
Jul 05, 2005 (12:18 am)
Since I surf this site a lot, wanted to post my experience on getting my Titan.
First, what I picked up:
2005 Crew Cab SE 4x2 (Radiant Silver w/ Graphite)
~ SE Popular with Captain
~ SE Utility Bed
~ Big Tow
Actual Cost: $27,965 - $2,000 (rebate) = $25,965 +tax/tag Also got them to throw in Gold Preferred Extended Warranty (84months/70,000 miles) for $1095!
I must say that you have to do your homework when getting a Titan, or any car for that matter. Know what you want option & color wise and stick to it. Also know dealer invoice pricing for everything…. base cost, options, and holdback. Since there are so many dealerships out there, don’t be afraid to shop around and call everyone. I made use of Nissan’s website to build my Titan with the options I wanted and started shopping their dealership inventory for just what I wanted. After finding exactly what I wanted at several dealers, I emailed them to get a feel about their pricing.
First thing to remember, no dealers will haggle with you in email form, because it’s not worth their time to give you the best pricing since they have no guarantee that you will buy from them. The best I got from all the dealers from my emails is $200 above dealer invoice. My formula for what I want to pay is as follows, please note that all pricing is dealer invoice and not MSRP. NEVER pay MSRP or dealer markup!!! I broke it down to make it easier to understand:
1) Base + Options = A
2) A – Dealer Holdback = B
3) B x [Percent of profit going to dealer] = C
4) B + C = D
5) D + Destination Cost = Negotiated Selling Cost of Car (NSCC)
NSCC is what you will offer to dealer or you WALK! I then calculate several NSCC base on what percent I like to dealer to make. I usually used 1-3% or I walk. Remember that NCSS is the actual cost of the car, if and when the dealer sells it.
After getting the pricing, I picked up what I needed to make the deal… loan paperwork, insurance, all my documents on invoice pricing on the Titan, my laptop with my loan-calculator program, and the weekend newspaper ads on the current deal. Then I headed to one of the big dealerships, remember that big dealerships is more interested in volume sale so more willing to cut into their holdbacks to get inventory off the lot.
I got to the dealership and walked into the sales floor asking for a sales manager. I introduce myself and told them that I have done my homework on the Titan and I want to test drive a Titan listed on their inventory. I did not promise at this time that I want to buy a Titan… just giving them a hint that I’m interested in one. I gave him the VIN for the one I’m looking for; he looks it up and got me a set of keys. By now, he probably knew that I know what I’m doing and skipped a lot of the regular sales tactics on me. He then introduces me to a regular sales guy and got me a test drive.
After the test drive, it’s time to haggle! I picked a nice big room with a big table in one of their haggling rooms and sat down on one of the more comfortable chairs. All dealers will ask what you are planning on paying pre-month as a starting point for what they expect you to spend. DO NOT go that route! Instead… I asked the dealership to run my credit. By them running your credit, it gives me control of what’s happening next and to also allow me time to pull my paperwork and laptop out. As they ran my credit, I pull up the pricing chart that I have already made on my laptop so that I have that information handy when they come back.
By now, they completely skipped the sales guy all together and introduce me to their finance guy instead. They probably figured out by now that it’s all but useless trying to work MSRP with me, since I’m more in control of what’s happening. A hint for everyone… never haggle down from MSRP (sure loser), instead haggle up from their invoice. The finance guy asked what I wanted to pay monthly and if I have a down payment and/or trade-in. I told him that doesn’t matter and gave him the number that I wanted to pay for this Titan, before rebates and tax/tag. I gave him 1% to start, which they never go for; at least I have yet to get a car at 1% of dealer invoice. The finance guy took the offer back to whomever he needs to report to… then came back and told me it’s too low. Also went on a little about how the number I wrote down is way below MSRP and even below their invoice… which I know is part of their haggle tactics. They too are trying to get the best deal out of this.
I upped it to 2% and told him to try that. He looked at it and told me that I only added $230 to the last number and acted all insulted that I would only add a mere $230 when MSRP for the car was $31,230. I didn’t budge from my number and was willing to walk from the deal since I still had 3 more dealership to hit. Also, at this point… it’s best to show him what you want for a trade-in, if you brought a car to trade-in. This is the best time because the trade-in could be used as a deal breaker for a lower selling price. I didn’t so I just told him to work with that number. He told me he’ll try and see what he can do, but also added that if he got me that price… am I willing to get it today. I told him yes and off he went.
After about 10 minutes, he came back with the monthly breakdown and loan sheet. Sorry, I don’t know what they call it… but this had the price that I asked for, a quick loan PAR and a break-down of monthly payment at a given APR. He told me that he got me the price that I was asking for and also was willing to give me a 60 month loan on it at 3% APR for the total cost of the Titan. This is where asking them to run your credit comes in handy… interested of them trying to get the most out of the sale, they are now working on the kickback from selling loans. Which is fine by me, since my main goal is to get the Titan at the best possible price.
Before agreeing on anything, I went over the cost of the Titan again… making sure that we are talking about the same numbers, making sure the rebates is what it’s suppose to be (and not added into the number already) and double–check the APR rate. I also told him that I have a down payment and like to apply it to the purchase. The loan wasn’t bad either and I calculated the monthly with loan program on my laptop right away… found it a worthwhile deal and shook on it. The rest is paperwork and history…
My final calculation for my NSCC:
1) $24,948 + $2,640 = $27,588
2) $27,588 - $828 (Nissan’s is 3% of total invoice) = $26,760
3) $26,760 x 2% = $535
4) $26,760 + $535 = $27,295
5) $27,295.20 + $670 = $27,965
NSCC = $27,965
My cost before taxes, doc and license was $25,965. My drive-off cost was $28,561 + $1095 (Extended Warranty) = $29,656. Hope this helps someone out there and also give you a hint as to what can you do to get the best possible deal :o) ~Titank.
#552 of 828 Work the Deal
Jul 05, 2005 (5:09 pm)
I just got my '05 Titan King Cab LE with 4x4 and Big Tow package for $29,700 + TTL and Warranty. MSRP was $33,500. The vehicle has a Rockford Fosgate system, leather, adjustable pedals that work with the memory seats and mirrors, (for the wifey), Utility Bed, captain chairs, and many other options. Work the deal and see what you can do.
Not that I'm pointing you to a Ford (who by the way failed to secure me in one of their trucks), but they are now doing the Employee discount like Chevy/GMC are doing. This will give you a good comparison on price versus options. If Ford can give you the same price on a comparable Titan, you need to take that back to the Nissan dealer so they know what they are competing against. They don't want to lose business, especially not to one of the big three truck makers.
Remember, right now is a great time to buy and deal. Trucks aren't bringing in much profit. It's all about moving metal and selling as many units as they can so it reflects well on their financial numbers. If Ford and GM can bring down their prices,....Nissan can to if they want to compete.
#553 of 828 REally worked a deal!!!!
Jul 05, 2005 (11:16 pm)
Prospective Titan Owners:
I picked up mine on Saturday July 2nd.
2005 LE CC in Red Brawn
Big Tow, Slidng bed extender, floor mats.
Negociated 1163 under invoice (holdback was 845, plus 318 more, 418 with tow hooks)
Out the door 30100
I thougth tow hooks were standard on LE but saw two that didn't have them. Dealer to throw them in, cost $100 installed.
If so my invoice would change to 30656
I got the exact color, interion color, and options that I wanted and the dealers who had the truck would not offer the best price, Found one dealer who would trade for it. Better to trade a truck that is not selling for one that you have a buyer for.
I live in Southern California and feel I got a pretty good deal.
I hope this helps you get your deal!!!
#554 of 828 Good deal and dealer in SOCAL
Jul 05, 2005 (11:17 pm)
Let me know if anyone needs a dealer who will make a great deal in SoCal.
#555 of 828 Cost of A Titan SE
Jul 06, 2005 (3:26 am)
The Dealer wants $100.00 over invoice. The Invoice with options 30,531
Options SE popular package 1350.00
Big tow 400.00
Under seat storage 150.00
Out the door with 2000.00 rebate $28,531 plus tax etc.
I am thinking that this is and OK deal any one else with experience could comment?
#556 of 828 Re: Good deal and dealer in SOCAL [jcaley]
Jul 06, 2005 (4:08 am)
I just posted a deal I was offered #555 I am moving to Lake Havasu City so So. Cal. Is not that far. What do you think of what I was offered?
#557 of 828 Re: Good deal and dealer in SOCAL [gfisher]
Jul 06, 2005 (8:06 am)
I think everyone's deal here falls in line with good negotiating. I shopped hard for a few weeks hitting all dealers in my Austin, Tx. area. I hit Ford, Chevy, and Nissan. Didn't go with Dodge because if I was going to get a Hemi then I would go with the Nissan anyway since it is powerful and sounded just as good as the Hemi. It came down to price and options which Dodges don't have a lot of.
KC's are slightly cheaper than CC's. That is accurate when you look at the MSRP's. CC's just cost more.
SE's with options end up costing more sometimes than LE's due to what comes standard on the LE's. If you get an SE within 26-28K range, you did well. It all depends on your options. LE's, which have lots of options included, will be in the 28-30K range depending on whether you add 4x4, offroad, bigtow, etc. Again, CC's will be more expensive than KC's. You either get more bed space and less rear seating room or more seating room and a shorter bed with less payload. It's all in what you want your truck for.
Since no one is making any profit on trucks (GM discount and now Ford is following suit), they just want to move units because its all they can do. Volume over profit for now on trucks. Take advantage of it.
And for those of you concerned with gas mileage, the bottom line is if gas mileage is an issue for you then you shouldn't be looking at full size half-tons. They all suffer in the gas mileage area. If you are concerned about a lot of towing and gas mileage, get a 3/4 ton diesel. Just remember the added maintenance costs ($80 oil changes for diesels every 5K and fuel filter changes every 10K).
#558 of 828 Re: Work the Deal [rrtitan]
Jul 06, 2005 (9:48 am)
there is a difference between GM and Ford offering employee pricing, and Nissan trying to compete with that. While Nissan dealers would be cutting so far into holdback and then some to meet those prices, and getting nothing in return as far as profit (if you want to call it that), Ford and GM are offering their dealers who participate in the "employee pricing for everyone" program a "commission" based on x% of the sale price, minus any fees or destination charges, etc. so ford and gm dealers actually MAKE something from the factory - where as the nissan dealers wouldnt...
its not always as simple as it seems!
#559 of 828 Re: Work the Deal [thenebean]
Jul 06, 2005 (11:50 am)
Not disagreeing there but Nissan still has to compete and they didn't build all these trucks to have them sit on the lots.
I got my Titan cheaper than I could get a Chevy or GMC with less options priced at the "employee discount". Basically, the Z71 is what would compete with a 4x4 Titan and the Z71 was the same price or more expensive with less options as an SE model Titan. The FX4 would be the competitor on the Ford side and don't get me started on their over-inflated MSRP. $38K MSRP for an FX4 with the same features/options as a Titan SE. Then they turn around and tell me, "We are saving you around 8K on the price of your truck."
Ford's employee discount may not be much better than the haggling you could do on your own. Bottom line is Nissan is competing with or without an employee discount.
'06 sales should be interesting.
#560 of 828 Re: Work the Deal [rrtitan]
Jul 06, 2005 (2:50 pm)
being as though i work at a ford dealer too (internet manager for both stores) i know that the ford employee price (A-plan) is about $1000 less than the X-plan (which is what our vendors get ) which ranges from $100 over to $300 under invoice. I'd say that the A-plan pricing, plus whatever incentives are available is a price that almost no one can negotiate from a dealer unless they are unbelievably desperate to get rid of cars. it really is an aggressive price, and consumers are lucky to have these kinds of options available.
and to comment on nissan - yes, nissan is going to have to be competitive - however people dont just buy a vehicle because of price - otherwise we'd all be buying Kias. people buy nissans (even though they can be more expensive than american cars) because people like them, they have a good reputation among other things.
while getting a great price is key - its not the only thing on people's minds when making a decision to buy a car!
my two cents...