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Ford F-250 Owners

1234 messages,  Last post on Nov 20, 2012 at 5:46 PM

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What is this discussion about? Ford F-250, Ford F-250 Super Duty, Truck

Messages Page 75 of 124

#741 of 1234 Help my ford start by saltydog73

Dec 30, 2006 (5:49 pm)

I have a 1991 F250 7.3L Diesel that has decided to stop starting... hopefully, someone here can make some suggestions. When I try to start the truck, the solenoid clicks once and then everything electrical dies. I had the starter bench tested at AutoZone and they say that it is fine, as are the batteries (tested also). I connect the two battery wires to the solenoid and leave it hanging rather than connecting it the fly wheel... one solenoid click and nothing. I replaced the stupid "Ford" solenoid on the fender of the truck (I don't know why Ford insists on two solenoids but that can be for another post) - one click solenoid and nothing. I took a jumper cable and went between the + post of one battery and the corresponding post on the starter's solenoid... this time I get one solenoid click, a few (5-6) cranks and then nothing. The wire on the jumper cable heats up and starts melting the plastic sheath (I think if it was heavy enough gauge that jumping the battery to the solenoid would work). My dad tells me to check all the cable connections (+/- wires)... I checked and cleaned all the (+) connections with a wire wheel on a grinder or sandpaper so they are all clean (bare metal). I didn't check or clean the engine or frame grounds because I think that if I had a ground issue, my battery to starter solenoid jumping would produce the same results as without the jumping... I did nothing to the ground when I run the jumper cable. My next option is to replace the battery cables... I call Ford and they want $300 for the cables (are you f-ing kidding me? I understand copper is expensive but how does the dealership justify that price?), AutoZone wants $110... note about the cable; the (-) cables are pretty standard, the (+) cable is connected to the left-hand battery, runs to the right-hand battery, and then splits. From here, one wire (16 gauge) goes to the "Ford" fender solenoid and then goes to the starter solenoid; the other wire (4 gauge) goes to another post on the starter solenoid. I am going to wait until Tuesday to see how much a battery shop can make the cable for me, but before I do that, am I missing something that I can check or change? Could my jumper between the (+) on one terminal to the starter solenoid really work if I had a ground issue? Again, when I do this, all the battery wires are connected as they would be from the dealership. I generally drive the truck to tow my boat only; this all happened when I took it for a drive (ran about 20 min) and then turned it off outside of a store... hasn't started since.

#742 of 1234 Re: f-250 2000 superduty pu fuel problem [cclink] by msoard

Dec 31, 2006 (6:31 pm)

Replying to: cclink (Nov 01, 2006 8:19 pm)
i saw your message about your fuel pump problem with your 250 and wonder wether i am in the same boat. i have a 99 f250, 5.8L triton, and have had several situations out on the highway where i have experienced significant loss of power and couldn't get the speed much over 40--lots of shaking and shimmying if i gave it gas.
 
did you get your problem fixed and was it your fuel pump? and how difficult/expensive to fix?
 
thanks for any advise!

#743 of 1234 Injector Problems by

Dec 31, 2006 (7:44 pm)

Have a 1999 F-250SD, 7.3L Diesel...Last week I had two injectors go out at the same time, number 4 & number 7.Now I have had big rigs for years and never had this happen...Why would this happen in my pickup truck...showed now signs of any problem...Been using oil additive and fuel additive with new ULSD fuel. Could this be the problem /the new fuel..??

#744 of 1234 clutch master cylinder by blacksmoke6

Jan 01, 2007 (7:46 pm)

I own an 01 F-250, when i bought it, it had 67k on it. Now I have 79k on it and am on my 3rd clutch master cylinder. Has anyone else had this same problem? Does anyone have a solution to the problem? The only ones i can find are made of cheap plastic. Someone please help me with my problem

#745 of 1234 Re: 99 F250 V-10 cranks but won't start [jutahh1] by stan_top_down

Jan 04, 2007 (6:02 pm)

Replying to: jutahh1 (Dec 22, 2006 10:03 pm)
Had a similar problem with my 2001 7.3L Diesel. Had it hauled to the Ford dealer because it was under extended warranty. Unfortunately the warranty did not cover the damage done by a squirrel that had taken up residence in the engine compartment. $700 worth of re-wiring later, the truck now works fine!

#746 of 1234 Re: lifter tap by orvin1

Jan 05, 2007 (7:52 am)

Replying to: connon (Dec 01, 2003 10:18 am)
Can anyone suppy info on lifters in the 7.3l power stroke? I have recently detected a noticeable tapping noise and was told that it is due to a lifter. What remedies are available and possible $ outlay.

#747 of 1234 What is normal? by keroburner

Jan 06, 2007 (2:58 pm)

I have a 2004 F250 Super Duty with the 6 liter diesel. I recently added an EGT gauge and a turbo boost gauge. I tow an 8,000 lb. toy hauler. At highway speeds on flat ground the boost runs about 10 lbs. and the exhaust gas temp. about 800 degrees. Pulling a hill, the boost goes to 30 lbs. and the EGT up to 1,000 degrees. I don't know what is a normal range and Ford won't answer my question. Anyone know what these specs should be?

#748 of 1234 Re: What is normal? [keroburner] by wpalkowski

Jan 07, 2007 (8:56 am)

Replying to: keroburner (Jan 06, 2007 2:58 pm)
Your truck is configured from factory to run around those levels. IF you start chipping it and changing the operating parameters, then your boost and EGTs will rise more You can spike your EGTs to 1200-1400 deg for short bursts and run your truck all day long 1000 degrees with no issues.
 
If the turbo is real hot when you're going to shut down, you just can't shut off the truck - the oil stops pumping and the heat will degrade the oil sitting in the turbo and possibly over time cause premature bearing wear. You need to run the truck on level streets or idle it for a while to keep the oil circulating while the temperatures go down. When it gets around 300-400 degrees you can shut off safely. SHould only take a few minutes.

#749 of 1234 6.0 fuel mpg by scooter06

Jan 07, 2007 (12:27 pm)

i just bought a 03 super duty super cab 4x4 with 6.0 i tow a 5x8 trailer with maybe i ton of tools in it but towing or empty i can only get 12 to 13 thats city and hwy driving does that sound right i was hoping for more and should i run the 40 centain or 45 i love this truck but iam thinking about chipping it for more mpg whats the best safe way to do it ?

#750 of 1234 Spanky New 2007 F250 has a shimmy at 55..is that normal?? by trucklady2007

Jan 07, 2007 (8:31 pm)

This is my very first diesel truck and it has only 150 miles on it so far. Picked it up last week and noticed a shimmy approaching 55 that evened out at 60. The steering wheel shook moderately.
Its a basic 5 speed manual quadcab shortbed needed to haul a 25 foot travel trailer. Doesn't have a hitch yet either...any advice on where to go to get one put on?
thanks ..glad I found this forum!

Messages Page 75 of 124

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