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Ford F-250 Owners

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#728 of 1181 2005 F250 fuel consumption by tuneman9 Nov 26, 2006 (6:10 am)
Hello everybody, I'm new here. I just found this place with a search because I wanted to ask a few questions about my new truck. Well, it's new to me anyway! It's 2005 F-250 Lariat FX4. It has the 5.4L in it with 3.73's and according to the computer it getting 9.8 mpg. Is the info screen in the dash entirely accurate? I have been told that it may take awhile but it may increase. The truck had 7600 miles on it when I bought it and now has 9200. That 9.8 is actually up from when I first got it but not by much. I think it was 9.4 when I test drove it. I am being told of other people in other trucks with the same size engine that they are getting in the teens. The engine runs great and there doesn't seem to be a problem with the vehicle but it seems kind of low for normal driving (not towing) which is kind of scary because I bought it to tow a 26' Jayco 7100#. I opted out of a V-10 or Diesel because I don't tow all the time with it. OK next question. The TBC on the the newer Super Dutys, mine does not have it. I found the controller w/ the replacement master cylinder online for $399. Has anyone bought one of the trucks without it and then put one in yourself? Changing the master cyl. doesn't look hard and the controller is a plug-in deal. Ford is telling me that I need to have it re programmed so that the truck will recognize it. They only want $900 for the whole thing plus install. Is it worth it? I am using a Tekonsha Voyager at present and it works but it's in the way. I like the integrated one better. I have been told that there is no comparison between the OEM and aftermarket. Thanks in advance any info will be greatly appreciated. Sorry for such a lengthy post. tuneman Replies to this message: lzrdking98 (Nov 26, 2006 4:41 pm) cepterjockey82 (May 07, 2009 4:04 pm)
#729 of 1181 The integrated TBC. by mschmal Nov 26, 2006 (6:49 am)
The integrated TBC is uniquely different from any after market unit because it runs off of the Master Brake Cylinder, NOT the brake light circuit. The OEM can also recognize when you engage ABS on the truck and will fade off the trailer brakes slightly so that you don't lock them.   I know some after market units "claim" to be proportional. Not sure if its worth $900 if you are not towing that frequently.   As for your MPG, the F-150 is rated for like 14 city, 19 highway, The F-250 is a bigger heavier brick to push through the wind, plus the different gearing. If you drive over 65, you will never get good MPG. If you get up to 12 overall average, that is good.   Mark.
#730 of 1181 Re: 2005 F250 fuel consumption [tuneman9] by lzrdking98 Nov 26, 2006 (4:41 pm)
Replying to: tuneman9 (Nov 26, 2006 6:10 am) congrats on your purchase. However, that is all I have favorable to say. Your MPG is way off. Something is wrong. Your computer should read city 14 0r 15 and highway as much as 20mpg. As for the towing, I would not have purchased the 5.4l gas model. I would have selected the bullet proof tow anything diesel 6.0L model. You are going to have trouble down the road. Diesels tow stuff not gas. Also, your 26' trailer is more than 7100lbs. Those stickers that show the weight of your coach are bare bones and not loaded numbers. They are not accurate. You are pushing the limits for that motor. Good luck. I would sell and buy a diesel. I have the 2006 f250 6l and I get 18-20mpg and 14 towing. Replies to this message: cepterjockey82 (May 07, 2009 4:04 pm)
#731 of 1181 Turbo or Wastegate problem? by powerstroke00 Nov 28, 2006 (2:33 pm)
I have a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3L and for the last week or so it has made a one of a kind roar out of the exhaust. Now i am a fan of a loud exhaust but this sound has to mean trouble. I also noticed that when I really accelerate that my wastegate is not letting out the air from the turbo, so that seems to be the noise I hear from the exhaust. The sound is a higher pitch than normal and is a good bit louder. Also i noticed that when my wategate would normally blowoff instead I am just getting my check engine light flashing at me. Anyone had this problem or have any suggestions? Thanks for any help.
#732 of 1181 Brand New-First Post 6.0 Litre by easton4 Dec 02, 2006 (10:34 pm)
My Dad purchased a 2007 250 Crew Cab LWB two wheel drive XL with the automatic yesterday. Will the 6.0 motor be dependable considering everything you current owners have discussed and learned over years? Where can I find a site that discloses the number of problems documented by the manufacturers, Navistar and Ford? Thank You for any helpful advise!
#733 of 1181 general maintence by vern14 Dec 03, 2006 (11:40 am)
Replying to: pf_flyer (Nov 07, 2003 5:46 am) Hey, I just bought a '99 7.3L PSD 4x4 with 137K on it. I am wondering what general maintence I should do on it. I figure a oil change is a no brainer. I changed the air filter, should I change the fuel filter? Also it has been cold here this last week and even though I plug it in I still have issues starting it, the engine has a hard time getting up to the operating RPM range. it kicks out a good deal of exhuast as well. Any ideas or thoughts on this issue??? Thanks Replies to this message: wpalkowski (Dec 05, 2006 5:26 am)
#734 of 1181 Re: general maintence [vern14] by wpalkowski Dec 05, 2006 (5:26 am)
Replying to: vern14 (Dec 03, 2006 11:40 am) Just remember that on this truck an oil change with the filter is about 16 quarts, and you've got to use an oil that's rated for diesel operation like Shell Rotella-T.   By all means change the fuel filter, and don't forget to drain the fuel line water separator. Since it's cold where you live you should also get winter diesel fuel additive - it prevents diesel fuel from gelling on cold days and preventing your diesel motor from running. Most service station switch over to winter blend diesel that resist gelling, but the fuel additive is extra insurance. The additives also inhibit algae growth in your fuel tank.   Also, get some coolant test strips. They're used to measure the concentration of the anti-cavitation additive in the radiator. Cavitation is small bubbles in the coolant along side the cylinder walls - they expand and cause hot spots on the cylinder - over time they cause erosion of the metal. That's not good if you want to keep the truck for a long time.   On the subject of cold days. When you turn on the key - the "Wait to Start" light turns on - that shows that the glow plugs are warming the cylinders. Wait for the full 20 seconds, and then try to start. You may even want to cycle the glow plugs a couple more times to warm things up more. If the engine's been warmed with the glow plugs, it usually starts fairly easily, and doesn't kick out all that much smoke. Just a thought though, if waiting to start doesn't help the rough starting, then check to see if your Glow Plug relay is working. That's one of those items that seems to wear out after 100k miles. It's a cheap fix that makes a world of difference in the winter.   Good luck and have fun with the new truck. That motor is just about broken in.
#735 of 1181 Block Heater Question by kwk3 Dec 05, 2006 (6:30 pm)
I've been a private sport fishing boat captain for over twenty years and have operated boats with diesel engines from six to sixteen cylinders. With the older two cycle engines, keeping the block heaters on even in mild tempatures made starting alot easier and almost eliminated exhaust smoke. Also I've been told that with warm oil wear on some or many internal parts is greatly reduced.   I have a 2004 6.0L superduty. My question is would there be any benefit to having my block heater on even in mild climate (keeping the engine/oil warm) as there is with the two cycle marine engines???????   Kenny Replies to this message: wpalkowski (Dec 13, 2006 5:51 am)
#736 of 1181 F-250 fuel system problem by shovel Dec 12, 2006 (4:23 pm)
My 1988 F250 4x4 460 auto has stopped pumping fuel to the fuel rail. Relay is working when the key is turned on and activating the high pressure pump on the frame but I am not hearing the tank pump at all. Please note that the rear tank has not worked in several years , so I have been using the front tank only. Before I pull the pump to replace it is there any place I should check before doing this ? Isnt the low pressure tank pump powered through an oil pressure activated circuit? I have also replaced the filter.
#737 of 1181 Re: Block Heater Question [kwk3] by wpalkowski Dec 13, 2006 (5:51 am)
Replying to: kwk3 (Dec 05, 2006 6:30 pm) Block heater's draw like 1000W or 1200W of power. The money you save by not paying the Electric Company would probably pay for most of your engine rebuild 350K miles down the road.

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