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1076 messages, Last post on Sep 09, 2008 at 6:55 PM
You are in the Ford F-Series Forum. Your Host is kcram
I have a 2002 Ford F-250 Super Duty CC, V-10, auto. with 50000 miles. The rotors have warped twice. This is my first Ford. I have had other trucks that did not warp rotors like this. Is this a problem with cc because of weight? Ford seems to know about this problem but has chosen to ignore it. I believe I can fix this for about $1200 by installing Slotted Frozen rotors. I am very unhappy with Ford because of this common complaint. I may not buy another one, Ford has let me down. What have others done?
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I purchased a brand new 2006 ford f250 diesel. Manuals say to tow after 500 mile break in. Seems a little too soon. Does anyone have any suggestions or comments. Can I hit the road, or should I wait a while. Please let me know
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Replying to: doscar (May 11, 2006 12:31 pm) Warped Rotor Myth I've got exactly the same configuration truck, except it's an '01, F350. I've got 47K on it. Original rotors, new front pads at 40K. Never any problems with warping. Turned front rotors just to start clean, and then broke the new pads in.
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Replying to: wpalkowski (May 12, 2006 5:04 am) |
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| I just bought a 99 F250 Super Duty with the 5.4. I knew the truck would be thirsty. However, i m still looking for ways to improve MPG's. which will give me the best results? Air intake, exhaust, hypertech programmer, Ect..ect..?? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. | |
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Replying to: lzrdking98 (May 11, 2006 10:50 pm) kcram - Pickups Host |
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My truck: 1996 Ford F-250 7.3 L power stroke The problem: Flashing wait to start light- truck shuts off and will not restart until wait to start light comes back on. Is random, has no warning, no pattern to problem, only does it every few days. Truck also develops a very mild skip just prior to truck shutting off. After truck starts, skip doesn't seem to be present until problem occurs again. I have replaced the following: Crankshaft sensor, IDM Module, PCM, fuel pump, fuel heater, ignition switch, removed and cleaned all known or visible grounds, changed type of oil from delo 15w40 to shell rotella 15w40. I am completely at a loss as to what is causing this problem. Can you help? Thanks |
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I bought a 2006 F250 and broke it in at 500 miles. After which I installed the hypertech programmer and set it at stage 2. I am loving it. Incredible hp, and torque. I love the shift patterns and firmness as well. Most of all, I was getting 12mpg, but now after install of programmer I am getting 17.2 and climbing. So far, I highly recommend this product. Troy
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This is my 86 year old father's truck so my facts are second hand. He says sometimes the fuel is drawn from one tank only and at other times it draws both down together --as this is over a period of days or weeks it is not possible to correctly evaluate his handling of the situation.... Two questions: 1. is the electric fuel switching valve similar to a chevy unit that defaults to the main tank in the event of valve failure? 2. Is the truck plumbed in anyway that would allow fuel to be drawn from both tanks simultainiously? Any diagrams or schematics would be appreciated Thanks, rriggs
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Replying to: rriggs (May 22, 2006 1:16 pm) In my 1990 and 1993 F150s with dual tanks, the valve setup was such that, as long as it was working correctly, fuel could only be drawn from the tank selected on the dash. When the valve malfunctions (stays open), what usually happens is, fuel is drawn from the selected tank, but some will actually spill back into the tank not selected since the passage is open. This would have the opposite effect than what your dad describes... the other tank would actually gain some fuel. It would be a multiple malfunction to draw fuel from both tanks, since not only would the valve be stuck, but the fuel would have to somehow be pumped from both tanks. If your dad's 250 is indeed losing fuel from both tanks simultaneously, then there is definitely a problem that needs attention, though. kcram - Pickups Host |
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