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Pickups Ford F-Series Ford F-250 Owners
1181 messages, Last post on Nov 09, 2009 at 7:43 PM
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Replying to: ford_dude1 (Dec 20, 2008 5:06 pm) Your front hubs won't engage because the hubs are locked in with a vacuum system. If the vacuum system wears out, the 4x4 light comes on, the transfer case engages, but the hubs don't. It happened to me once. Just be happy it did not fail when the truck was in 4 wheel drive! That also happened to me once - hubs would not disengage but light goes out. Blew up my tansfer case at 80 mph! Vacuum activated hubs - what a joke! My hubs say "lock" and "auto". Not the old "lock" and "free." |
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I have a 2002 F250 and the door ajar light on the dash is staying on even with all the doors shut. The dome light stays on also. After I drive for a few minutes, the light goes off on the dash, the doors lock, and the dome light goes off. Anyone else have this problem?
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Replying to: Racerx_86 (Jan 29, 2009 8:02 am)  12,000 miles and the chrome rims would throw off the tape - on wheel balancing weights. If you tow a lot and then unhitch for a highway trip, then "lightness" of the back of the truck can set up your oscillation. Ck the shocks go for Monroe ( Napa) HD (yellow) air shocks or the expensive red&white Ranchos. Ck your tire balancing AND air pressure ( ie 72-80 psi for "E" rated 10 ply tires) Hope this helps - j PS. Count your rear spring leafs (and HD helper spring if any) to make sure they match... |
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My experiences good and bad the last 8 years: 1 Oil leak Appx 70 -75k "not seen" by Walmart until my dirt driveway showed a puddle. 2 Frt Whl bearings 101,k 150,k and 212,k first two sets defective from Ford. 3 Cam Positioning Sensor 170,k ?? NOW I find a Jan ' 07 recall notice Ford.com. (this caused all sorts of dia-nogs form fuelpump to every injector needing to be replaced) 4 Electrical short in Wire Harness under left front Valve cover (for real!!). This caused the truck to just shut down any old time, worse than # 3 CPSensor. 5 Two Fuel Leaks 1.- fuel drain petcock replaced and 2. - a fuel line from the bottom underside up to the fuel bowl rubbed itself a hole. 6 Oil leak "O" ring bottom left front oil pump? behind Pwr Strg pump. 7 Bad side wall blowouts of Firestone ATX 275 16's all eight of them. I now run Dunlop 245 16 E rated 10 ply street tires 8 Throw in one radiator (use the Diesel Radiator additive!!!) Three alternators and two (serpentine) belt tensioners (sp) - the latest one is designed much better. I learned. Do not go to Ford, find a good honest trained mechanic who "likes" diesels. In Savannah GA, I trust C & W Diesel Repair in Garden City. Do use the Ford or Carquest Diesel Radiator additive, and a fuel additive - Lucas is good, and throw in a little transmission fluid into your fuel every month or so. Keep your tires at 6-8 pounds below max ( 80 is max. for "E" rating). Change the oil after you've added the second quart (about 3 - 5 k miles between oil changes) And please use a HD Lucas Oil additive at each oil change and try to work your way up to Valvoline (Napa) straight 40 Weight oil in 5 gallon containers - you'll go 5 - 8 k between oil changes. Hope this helps. I wish I had a mechanical (diesel) background. This is from my experience and mechanics will smile and be happy to replace each injector (all 8) for $300. + a piece. Thanks for your time - jim |
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WE HAVE UNDONE EVERYTHING, BUT CAN ONLY GET THE TRANSMISSION TO SLIDE BACK ABOUT 1/2 INCH.
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Hello I have a 2003 F250 diesel. Have replaced the alternator three times since December 22nd 2008. Cost a small fortune at the dealer but they cannot fine anything wrong. After about twenty minutes of ideal time alternator gets so hot you can fry eggs on it. Have insatlled two new batteries about two weeks ago and still have the same problem. Alternator now gone again. Batteries don't seem to be draining as I used a amp meter while the truck is off and no load. While engine is running and everything off total load is about 25 amps. I am at a loss here with a truck that I cannot use. Any suggections would be great appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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Replying to: jlindsey2 (Feb 19, 2009 6:33 pm) |
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Replying to: Spancat (Feb 20, 2009 5:02 am) The batteries and alternator got hot, all the water in my "sealed" batteries evaporated, and even though I managed to fill them, they still drained down the batteries' sides and the mounting brackets and grounded themselves all over again to repeat the cycle. You may have a loose wire over by the fuse-able link on the right inner fender (I think on the starter soliniod?) next to a vacuum pump. I fried my link (IT runs all the way to the back of the alternator) and it mine sparked and became weak (extra resistance) when I switched alternators w/o disconnecting the batteries first! I know, you try to learn from your mistakes. Also make sure your batteries are not being slowly drained overnight. There was some kind of test you could do to see if a wire, light (glovebox light?) or some solinoid was on or grounded. Also check to see if your aftermarket radio, phone charger, radar detector etc. was properly wired and or removed when you bought the truck and a live wire is just hanging touching ground (metal), and slowly draining the batteries so that when you do run your truck the alternator is overcharging to compensate for the drain or grounded wire. Also check Ford.com for you model's recalls. There may have been some regarding headlights - interior lights etc. Good Luck |
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Replying to: BroncoBCC (Feb 14, 2009 8:24 pm) |
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Replying to: ford4me (Feb 29, 2008 7:28 am) |
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