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Pickups Ford F-Series Ford F-250 Owners
1181 messages, Last post on Nov 09, 2009 at 7:43 PM
You are in the Ford F-Series Forum. Your Host is kcram
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Replying to: nealj (Feb 06, 2009 12:55 pm)
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Replying to: okko1 (Feb 06, 2009 2:14 pm) kcram - Pickups/Wagons Host |
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Replying to: threefoot (Sep 14, 2005 2:59 am) |
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Hi and Help!, I have a 99 F250 Diesel. I am the original owner. It has 220,000 miles and a 6- speed manual tranny. I tow a big six-horse trailer quite a bit and have a SuperChips adjustable system for the truck. For over a year now the truck won't start unless it has been plugged in. I have had the truck into the Ft. Collins, CO dealership three times (including right now) and they can't seem to get to the bottom of it. I have had the glow plug relay replaced several times, numerous glow plugs, wiring harnesses, and the pcm once. I believe it has a recalled and replaced cam shaft sensor as well. If the truck sits for a couple days, it won't start unless I use starting fluid, which I don't like to use. When it does start, it runs on less than the 8 cylinders until completely warm. The truck has no problem starting the same day once it has been running earlier in the day. What the heck?? |
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Replying to: ford_dude1 (Dec 20, 2008 5:06 pm) Your front hubs won't engage because the hubs are locked in with a vacuum system. If the vacuum system wears out, the 4x4 light comes on, the transfer case engages, but the hubs don't. It happened to me once. Just be happy it did not fail when the truck was in 4 wheel drive! That also happened to me once - hubs would not disengage but light goes out. Blew up my tansfer case at 80 mph! Vacuum activated hubs - what a joke! My hubs say "lock" and "auto". Not the old "lock" and "free." |
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I have a 2002 F250 and the door ajar light on the dash is staying on even with all the doors shut. The dome light stays on also. After I drive for a few minutes, the light goes off on the dash, the doors lock, and the dome light goes off. Anyone else have this problem?
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Replying to: Racerx_86 (Jan 29, 2009 8:02 am)  12,000 miles and the chrome rims would throw off the tape - on wheel balancing weights. If you tow a lot and then unhitch for a highway trip, then "lightness" of the back of the truck can set up your oscillation. Ck the shocks go for Monroe ( Napa) HD (yellow) air shocks or the expensive red&white Ranchos. Ck your tire balancing AND air pressure ( ie 72-80 psi for "E" rated 10 ply tires) Hope this helps - j PS. Count your rear spring leafs (and HD helper spring if any) to make sure they match... |
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My experiences good and bad the last 8 years: 1 Oil leak Appx 70 -75k "not seen" by Walmart until my dirt driveway showed a puddle. 2 Frt Whl bearings 101,k 150,k and 212,k first two sets defective from Ford. 3 Cam Positioning Sensor 170,k ?? NOW I find a Jan ' 07 recall notice Ford.com. (this caused all sorts of dia-nogs form fuelpump to every injector needing to be replaced) 4 Electrical short in Wire Harness under left front Valve cover (for real!!). This caused the truck to just shut down any old time, worse than # 3 CPSensor. 5 Two Fuel Leaks 1.- fuel drain petcock replaced and 2. - a fuel line from the bottom underside up to the fuel bowl rubbed itself a hole. 6 Oil leak "O" ring bottom left front oil pump? behind Pwr Strg pump. 7 Bad side wall blowouts of Firestone ATX 275 16's all eight of them. I now run Dunlop 245 16 E rated 10 ply street tires 8 Throw in one radiator (use the Diesel Radiator additive!!!) Three alternators and two (serpentine) belt tensioners (sp) - the latest one is designed much better. I learned. Do not go to Ford, find a good honest trained mechanic who "likes" diesels. In Savannah GA, I trust C & W Diesel Repair in Garden City. Do use the Ford or Carquest Diesel Radiator additive, and a fuel additive - Lucas is good, and throw in a little transmission fluid into your fuel every month or so. Keep your tires at 6-8 pounds below max ( 80 is max. for "E" rating). Change the oil after you've added the second quart (about 3 - 5 k miles between oil changes) And please use a HD Lucas Oil additive at each oil change and try to work your way up to Valvoline (Napa) straight 40 Weight oil in 5 gallon containers - you'll go 5 - 8 k between oil changes. Hope this helps. I wish I had a mechanical (diesel) background. This is from my experience and mechanics will smile and be happy to replace each injector (all 8) for $300. + a piece. Thanks for your time - jim |
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WE HAVE UNDONE EVERYTHING, BUT CAN ONLY GET THE TRANSMISSION TO SLIDE BACK ABOUT 1/2 INCH.
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Hello I have a 2003 F250 diesel. Have replaced the alternator three times since December 22nd 2008. Cost a small fortune at the dealer but they cannot fine anything wrong. After about twenty minutes of ideal time alternator gets so hot you can fry eggs on it. Have insatlled two new batteries about two weeks ago and still have the same problem. Alternator now gone again. Batteries don't seem to be draining as I used a amp meter while the truck is off and no load. While engine is running and everything off total load is about 25 amps. I am at a loss here with a truck that I cannot use. Any suggections would be great appreciated. Thank you in advance.
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