Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 8:29 PM
You are in the Buick Century
What is this discussion about?
Buick Century, Buick, Electrical, Engine, Sedan, SUV
#557 of 592 Re: 1999 century rear lights [glennsbus]
Nov 23, 2011 (10:52 am)
Problems with trunk lights and/or remote trunk release from glove box or key fob? It looks like GM used the wrong grade of wire for the harness between the car body and the trunk lid - too few strands and too stiff for all that flexing during weather extremes. Once you start having trouble and find at least one broken wire, expect the others to follow. I had five break in my Buick Century 2000 before I gave in and replaced all the conductors with more appropriate wire. The best fix without replacing the whole harness is cutting out a length of the wire and splicing in new wire (use the same gauge but more strands if possible), with the joints on both ends safely outside the flex area. You'll need to be able to make solid connections and make them watertight. Use cable ties to keep the joints from moving when the lid moves.
#558 of 592 Re: Century 2000 Limited sedan [daebyoh]
Nov 30, 2011 (11:19 am)
Junkyard motor? At about 210,000 miles, my '98 had already had intake and head gaskets (heads resurfaced) redone. At about 230,000 miles the camshaft broke. After finding a machine shop that does "line boring" and $1200 later, I found out that GM was so nice that they put hollow camshafts in all of their 3.1 and 3.4 litre motors. All six of the shops told me that the camshaft usually breaks at about 150,000 miles. Finding a "line boring" shop was the biggest chore. Not too many of them exist in NW Ohio. Did you or your friend talk to any machine shops? It's alot easier to change the cam and lifters before it breaks. Knowing what I do about these silly cars, I'll recommend you first, research what I've said and second, take another couple of weekends, pull the motor and replace the camshaft before it breaks. If not, you'll probably find out that the car will just shut off for no appearant reason and not restart. Mine happened on the interstate on my way to work. I'll, also, recommend that you replace the shift solonoids in the transmission at the same. At the GM dealer, I bought all four for mine for under a hundred dollars. It takes longer to remove the side case than it does to change all four solonoids. You'll change the fluid, seven quarts, and filter about forty bucks for the whole deal. Then you can have all of the major Century issues out of the way. I'm at about 350,000 miles now. Hope you find this useful. I wish I Knew some of this stuff before finding out the hard way.
#559 of 592 Re: Electrical Mayhem Please Help! [airmech1]
Dec 25, 2011 (3:23 pm)
I've had this similar prob with Olds, and Buick's inparticular.......depending on the engine, and how many you have, it's been the coil, or coil pack, that was the culprit
#560 of 592 Removing Trunk Lock Cylinder on 1999 Buick Century?
Jan 14, 2012 (10:10 am)
I broke the entrance key for my 1999 Buick Century Classic. Fortunately, or perhaps unfortunately, the fragment went flying into the snow rather than jamming in the trunk. I broke into my car and can drive it with the ignition, but obviously I can't drive around much longer without being able to lock it. Was curious if you guys have ever removed a trunk lock cylinder? I do not wan't to damage the electronic release or strip it. I also don't want to pay a mechanic to do this if it is a practical task to do myself. Thank You!!
#561 of 592 shift solenoid/tps
Jan 14, 2012 (2:58 pm)
i have a 2002 buick century and it has been acting up by surging from a dead stop and i have shifting problems. its almost as if the motor has no power. it doesnt want to accelerate and takes forever to get up to speed. but it didnt thro any codes. it did throw a high voltage code but i was thinking wouldnt it trip the check engine light? also i was told there is two shift solenoids in the trans a 1-2 and a 2-3 but i cant find the 1-2 solenoid anywhere. does any1 have any idea what this would be a solenoid or the tps (throtle position sensor)?
#562 of 592 tire size &1 more
Feb 21, 2012 (9:15 am)
sorry new to this site didnt know where to actually ask these questions
1. i have a 94 century and am looking into new tires. the current ones came off my old non running 95 century size is 185/75/14. i was told they dont make my tire anymore from several tire places. what would be the size i would need then?
2. i have a two part question here, my car is hardly ever in the shop it is always fixed by my dad. my anti lock brake light is on. hes checked the rear wheels for locking up. hes checked the brake lines and front roaters for rubbing ( dont know what that actually means) hes checked to see if the fuse is bad incase it was a false/positive in the dash lights. the car stops fine and the brakes never lock up. what else should he check to make this light go off? and will the part that needs fixing interchange from the non running 95 century?
#563 of 592 Hard to start
Apr 08, 2012 (7:44 am)
#564 of 592 Hard to start
Apr 08, 2012 (7:44 am)
I have a 1991 century with 33,000 miles on it. If the car sits all night in the morning its hard to start,it takes 15, to 20 seconds to start, after it starts its fine for the rest of the day. Only after a long time sitting is it hard to start.This problem just started , I have replaced the fuel pump,and fuel filter. Can someone help me with this problem ? Thanks
#566 of 592 Red Signal Lights Give me Anxiety Attacks!!!! ( 97 buick century custom)
Aug 16, 2012 (4:28 am)
In July 2011 I inherited a 1997 Buick Century Custom complete with Dynaride and Concert sound... and the car rides smoother and bumps harder than any other car i have ever had. My mom had been storing the car for me to come and retrieve since my grandmother had her license revoked so in order to make sure everything was working well she took it to the Top Gun or Top Flight service center in Orange County, CA. It passed with flying colors something like a 72 point inspection that cost almost 300 bucks. 3 days later my daughter and i began the 7 hour drive home to Santa Rosa By the time we reached the Los Angeles County line the right blinker had gone out, and the indicator in the interior was rapidly blinking. and yet still we continued on our way... We stopped to fill up in Castaic, near the "grapevine" and then again in San Jose when i picked up a buddy of mine to help me drive the rest of the way. About a block away from his house my fuel gauge said i had a quarter tank of gas left. when he got into the drivers seat to begin driving the gas light came on and dinged at me... we flipped a u turn and headed for the nearest gas station, where upon arrival prior to buying any gas the needle of the gas gauge was now reading pas the full mark. AND THIS WAS JUST THE START!!!
I have run out of gas at least 5 or 6 times and i know this is bad for the car but its almost impossible for me to calculate the gas mileage im gonna be getting with this car, and it gives no warning im lucky if i can even get it to the side of the road. I have even started having anxiety attacks at red lights. Ive also noticed that sometimes in the morning my interior dash lights will "appear" to be on only a block later ill hear a pop sound and then they come on all the way. RIght now my ABS and Emergency Brake lights in the dash are on and they have stayed on even though i never use the ebrake because it hurts my back. A month after i got the car my front right blinker and daylamp mysteriously fixed themselves on their own accord,,, no new bulbs fuses or anything, however as of today they are out again and this time ive tried new bulbs and fuses. And STILL THERES MORE
twice since i have had the car it has refused to start...at first i thought it was the starter but i wasnt too worried since it had only happened twice.. My dad is an amazing mechanic, specializing in custom fabrication and repair, so i stopped at his house about a month ago because it was having a hard time starting, he again checked all my fluids, and fuses. The battery was really low, and didnt seem to hold a charge according to the voltage reader so he put it on a charger and we let it fully charge before we left, He took out the glove box and hood lamp bulbs to conserve energy and suggested i buy a new battery as soon as possible. 2 weeks ago i went to pick my daughter up from her grandmas house, car started just fine in my driveway but when i tried to start it at their house all it did was click. Thinking it was the battery this time i had my sister in law attempt to jump start my car with hers. And still all we got was a click click click. we disconnected the jumper cables and pushed my car back in the driveway all of 3 feet and the darn thing started right up. My clock had reset itself but my radio stations were still programmed. For the last three days i have had to jump start my car id say like 75 percent of the time in order for it to start, my cables are clean and are not corroded. None of my fuses or bulbs are blown. I make sure everything in the car is off so as not to drain the battery. my dad said he thinks that if its not the battery that its probably the starter not getting enough juice from the battery because all of the lights, radio, door locks, interior dash lights, power windows seats and doors work...
Anyone got any ideas.. seriously any ideas on what we should try to fix this problem, other than a new battery cause right now im getting ready to walk to my house cause guess what my car wont start!!