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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

575 messages,  Last post on Feb 21, 2013 at 8:01 PM

You are in the Buick Century Forum.

What is this discussion about? Buick Century, Buick, Electrical, Engine, Sedan, SUV

Messages Page 57 of 58

#555 of 575 Re: Century 2000 Limited sedan [nancy2] by daebyoh

Nov 22, 2011 (10:45 am)

Replying to: nancy2 (May 06, 2004 1:52 pm)
Jerking when proceeding from a stop and occasional low whine from the transmission started in my Buick Century 2000 at about 60,000 miles. I was advised to spend lots of money for various repairs, none of which I did. Various reports of people spending $800 for fixes that didn't last put me off.
 
Update: 125,000 miles after the problem began. Still happens only occasionally. Never spent a dime on that symptom, just put up with the minor annoyance. Never had a serious issue with it.
 
I replaced the engine at 142,000 miles after damage from the intake manifold gasket. A friend and I got that done over three weekends for $900, including a great junkyard engine, a new OEM "improved design" gasket set, fluids and some other parts.

#556 of 575 Re: 1998 Buick Century Digital odometer [molerj] by daebyoh

Nov 23, 2011 (11:01 am)

Replying to: molerj (Jun 02, 2009 9:12 pm)
Problems with the odometer and gearshift light level? The problem is likely limited to four resistors on the circuit board inside the panel. There is at least one really great Youtube video showing how to get the dash apart and requires only a Phillips screwdriver. Radio Shack sells a 5-pack #271-1109 of the 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistors you need for $1.19. If you or someone you know is skilled at soldering, that will be your whole cost to repair. Following the video, time to extract the panel is less than 30 minutes. Time to repair the board depends upon your skills, but could be less than 15 minutes. Time to put everything back is less than 30 minutes.

#557 of 575 Re: 1999 century rear lights [glennsbus] by daebyoh

Nov 23, 2011 (11:52 am)

Replying to: glennsbus (Feb 16, 2009 8:49 am)
Problems with trunk lights and/or remote trunk release from glove box or key fob? It looks like GM used the wrong grade of wire for the harness between the car body and the trunk lid - too few strands and too stiff for all that flexing during weather extremes. Once you start having trouble and find at least one broken wire, expect the others to follow. I had five break in my Buick Century 2000 before I gave in and replaced all the conductors with more appropriate wire. The best fix without replacing the whole harness is cutting out a length of the wire and splicing in new wire (use the same gauge but more strands if possible), with the joints on both ends safely outside the flex area. You'll need to be able to make solid connections and make them watertight. Use cable ties to keep the joints from moving when the lid moves.

#558 of 575 Re: Century 2000 Limited sedan [daebyoh] by dancin_partner

Nov 30, 2011 (12:19 pm)

Replying to: daebyoh (Nov 22, 2011 10:45 am)
Junkyard motor? At about 210,000 miles, my '98 had already had intake and head gaskets (heads resurfaced) redone. At about 230,000 miles the camshaft broke. After finding a machine shop that does "line boring" and $1200 later, I found out that GM was so nice that they put hollow camshafts in all of their 3.1 and 3.4 litre motors. All six of the shops told me that the camshaft usually breaks at about 150,000 miles. Finding a "line boring" shop was the biggest chore. Not too many of them exist in NW Ohio. Did you or your friend talk to any machine shops? It's alot easier to change the cam and lifters before it breaks. Knowing what I do about these silly cars, I'll recommend you first, research what I've said and second, take another couple of weekends, pull the motor and replace the camshaft before it breaks. If not, you'll probably find out that the car will just shut off for no appearant reason and not restart. Mine happened on the interstate on my way to work. I'll, also, recommend that you replace the shift solonoids in the transmission at the same. At the GM dealer, I bought all four for mine for under a hundred dollars. It takes longer to remove the side case than it does to change all four solonoids. You'll change the fluid, seven quarts, and filter about forty bucks for the whole deal. Then you can have all of the major Century issues out of the way. I'm at about 350,000 miles now. Hope you find this useful. I wish I Knew some of this stuff before finding out the hard way.

#559 of 575 Re: Electrical Mayhem Please Help! [airmech1] by midastouch1953

Dec 25, 2011 (4:23 pm)

Replying to: airmech1 (Mar 23, 2010 5:09 am)
I've had this similar prob with Olds, and Buick's inparticular.......depending on the engine, and how many you have, it's been the coil, or coil pack, that was the culprit

#560 of 575 Removing Trunk Lock Cylinder on 1999 Buick Century? by dylanfalduto

Jan 14, 2012 (11:10 am)

I broke the entrance key for my 1999 Buick Century Classic. Fortunately, or perhaps unfortunately, the fragment went flying into the snow rather than jamming in the trunk. I broke into my car and can drive it with the ignition, but obviously I can't drive around much longer without being able to lock it. Was curious if you guys have ever removed a trunk lock cylinder? I do not wan't to damage the electronic release or strip it. I also don't want to pay a mechanic to do this if it is a practical task to do myself. Thank You!!

#561 of 575 shift solenoid/tps by mikem11221

Jan 14, 2012 (3:58 pm)

i have a 2002 buick century and it has been acting up by surging from a dead stop and i have shifting problems. its almost as if the motor has no power. it doesnt want to accelerate and takes forever to get up to speed. but it didnt thro any codes. it did throw a high voltage code but i was thinking wouldnt it trip the check engine light? also i was told there is two shift solenoids in the trans a 1-2 and a 2-3 but i cant find the 1-2 solenoid anywhere. does any1 have any idea what this would be a solenoid or the tps (throtle position sensor)?

#562 of 575 tire size &1 more by nonfixable

Feb 21, 2012 (10:15 am)

sorry new to this site didnt know where to actually ask these questions
 
1. i have a 94 century and am looking into new tires. the current ones came off my old non running 95 century size is 185/75/14. i was told they dont make my tire anymore from several tire places. what would be the size i would need then?
 
2. i have a two part question here, my car is hardly ever in the shop it is always fixed by my dad. my anti lock brake light is on. hes checked the rear wheels for locking up. hes checked the brake lines and front roaters for rubbing ( dont know what that actually means) hes checked to see if the fuse is bad incase it was a false/positive in the dash lights. the car stops fine and the brakes never lock up. what else should he check to make this light go off? and will the part that needs fixing interchange from the non running 95 century?

#563 of 575 Hard to start by rjt427

Apr 08, 2012 (8:44 am)

#564 of 575 Hard to start by rjt427

Apr 08, 2012 (8:44 am)

I have a 1991 century with 33,000 miles on it. If the car sits all night in the morning its hard to start,it takes 15, to 20 seconds to start, after it starts its fine for the rest of the day. Only after a long time sitting is it hard to start.This problem just started , I have replaced the fuel pump,and fuel filter. Can someone help me with this problem ? Thanks

Messages Page 57 of 58

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