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Sedans Buick Century Buick Century Maintenance and Repair
431 messages, Last post on Aug 26, 2008 at 1:49 PM
You are in the Buick Century Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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On May 5th I took my 2000 Buick Century to a repair facility because my check engine light came on and the vehicle bucked at idle after driving for approx 15-20 minutes. The repair facility scanned the vehicle and advised me that the code pulled was for a injector # 2. They replaced the injector for the cost of $280.00 On May 11th my check engine light came on again, stayed on for 2 days and then went off, but still would flicker off and when the vehicle accelerated. I took the vehicle back to the shop on the 13th and this time they advised me the problem was my Caddilay convertor (spelling ??) I told them that was probably what was wrong with it on May 5th but of course they advised me that they replaced the injector based on the scanned codes they received so I paid them $380.00 this time to replace the convertor. On June 9th my check engine light started to flicker when going uphill or accelerating at times, it seemed like the engine had a miss. I took it back to the same repair facility and this time they replaced my entire coil pack (according to them) at no charge to me this time . The vehicle seems ok so far but its only been a day. I guess my question is how likely is it that I needed all these different repairs in a months span? The car has 145,000 miles on it but up until this point it has not had any problems. I have owned it for a year and a half . Thanks in advance for any input on this. |
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I HAVE A 91 BUICK CENTURY WITH THE DRIVER'S SIDE POWER WINDOW SWITCH NOT WORKING OR EVEN MAKING A NOISE. FIGURED IT WAS THE SWITCH. HAD TO GO TO USED PARTS TO FIND A DIFFERENT ONE, REPLACED IT AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. TOOK IT TO DEALER WHO SAID IT WAS THE POWER WINDOW MOTOR. REPLACED IT. STILL DOESN'T WORK. OF COURSE, THE BUICK DEALERS DO NOT CARRY THESE PARTS ANY MORE, SO I AM HAVING TO RELY ON USED PARTS. HAVE CHECKED FUSES. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM. ANY ANSWER WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
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Replying to: charline (Jun 11, 2008 9:00 am) |
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Replying to: charline (Jun 11, 2008 9:00 am) By the way when you're done you need to close the rubber housing again. I used some electrical tape and went several times around to seal it nicely. Just my 2 cents |
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| Window in rear passenger side door has gone off track (we had to duct tape the window in place for now), and I wonder if anyone has guidance on how to remove the door panel in order to get inside and realign the door. As best I can tell so far, everything works, other than the glass has come off the bottom track. If anyone has guidance on that, I'd sure appreciate it. Thanks | |
I'm new to this forum (I'm usually at Jeep Cherokee and Grand Cherokee). Does anybody know what component(s) are at fault in NHTSA TSB 10004775? I have all the problems listed in this TSB. Please help!!!  I have a 2002 Buick Century.
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Replying to: 52132 (Jun 20, 2008 4:09 pm) Factory #s look like this: 03-09-41-003A
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 20, 2008 6:13 pm)
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Replying to: 52132 (Jun 20, 2008 6:30 pm) The Buick # is 03-05-25-008 Bulletin No.: 03-05-25-008 Date: October 01, 2003 TECHNICAL Subject: Intermittent/Constant ABS MIL Illuminated (Replace Both Front Wheel Speed Harnesses) Models: 2001-03 Buick Century, Regal 2001-03 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo 2001-02 Oldsmobile Intrigue 2001-04 Pontiac Grand Prix Condition Some customers may comment on an intermittent or constant ABS malfunction indicator light. Cause The front wheel speed sensor harness may wear or come into contact with the tie rod end stud. Additionally, the harness may, in some instances, loop over the tie rod stud. In this case, the wheel speed sensor should be examined for damage. Correction Replace original wheel speed sensor harnesses by splicing in revised wheel speed sensor harnesses. The new design harnesses are of a different length and have revised retention clip locations. Use the following procedure to replace the harnesses. 1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Disconnect the left wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly. 3. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm. 4. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger engine harness conduit. 5. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the engine harness conduit. Cut the original harness off. 6. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit. 7. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash. 8. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm. Note: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud. 9. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted. 10. Disconnect the right wheel speed sensor harness from the sensor/bearing assembly. 11. Remove the harness retainers from the lower control arm. 12. Follow the harness back to the point where the harness enters the larger conduit. 13. Cut the electrical tape and open the conduit. Select a location where the splice will be within the larger harness conduit. Cut the original harness off. 14. Using GM/Packard Seal and Crimp Connectors, splice the two wires from the new harness to the old. Specific instructions for use of the Seal and Crimp Connectors are printed on the inside of the cardboard overleaf sealing the bag in which the harness is shipped. If Seal and Crimp Connectors are not available, you may use the crimp and solder type included with the harness kit. 15. Retape the conduit closed making sure to create an effective seal against road splash. 16. Route the replacement harness following the same path as the original. Fully seat the 4 retainers into the control arm. Note: In the next step you will be required to measure the distance between the last retaining clip in the control arm and the end of the electrical plug that connects to the wheel speed sensor. Failure to properly perform this measurement and suitably adjust the harness may result in entanglement or infringement on the tie rod stud. 17. Hold the end of the new electrical harness and stretch it firmly. Due to manufacturing tolerances, you will need to measure from the end of the plug (that attaches to the wheel speed sensor) to the rear edge of the first retaining clip. This distance must not exceed 24.7 cm (9.75 in). If the distance is equal to or greater than 24.7 cm (9.75 in), you must move the retaining clip to allow more slack at the control arm and less between the wheel speed sensor and the retainer. Repeat the measurement until properly adjusted.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 21, 2008 10:21 am)
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