Last post on Nov 06, 2013 at 8:29 PM
You are in the Buick Century
What is this discussion about?
Buick Century, Buick, Electrical, Engine, Sedan, SUV
#402 of 592 Re: 2000 buick century abs system [mc3235]
May 25, 2008 (6:35 pm)
hey, i had the same problem. i talk to a tech friend from mg and he told me that if i took it to the dealer i would get charged thru the roof. he told me to check the sensor wires. this is often the problem. they get worn and break. sure enough i took of the wheel and there is was....broken wire. I fixed the wire and problem went away. my abs warning and my trac off light . just last month it did it again. I check the other wheel and sure enough both wires were cut. I fixed them both...20 mins and all done. check it out and save some money!!!!
#403 of 592 Re: evap code po440 weak vac [sr0156]
May 25, 2008 (11:39 pm)
Maybe just the gas cap?
#404 of 592 Re: one side heat,one side cold [jeffreyp]
May 26, 2008 (6:59 pm)
Hi, Did you ever figure out what caused this? i'm looking to buy a used Buick Century and it is doing the same thing. Also, the power windows do not work any hints?
Also, does this model need to have the timing belt replaced by a certain mileage?
#405 of 592 Re: power winodw problems [redbird48]
Jun 06, 2008 (4:37 am)
I have a 1998 Buick Century with power window problems. I read on this thread that you have been through this. I have a whole new window switch to put in on the driver's side, but the previous owner told me that he had replaced a relay in the fuse box and that it worked for one day and then burned out. He said he got another one, but that he could tell it was going to burn out as it was getting hot? I tried to call the GM dealer and they know nothing of a relay for the fuse box. Any hints of helps you could give would be greatly appreciated.
#406 of 592 power windows
Jun 06, 2008 (5:44 am)
Check the wire housing in the doors, especially the drivers side. In my car I slit open the black rubber housing and found that the wires where broken. I reconnected them with those electrical wire connectors you can get at radioshack in a box with a wire stripper/pincher. And now both my windows work.
Cost, just the connectors/stripper package for about $10 and some of my time.
Now I can again open my window at the drive-thru.
#407 of 592 engine surges at higher rpms
Jun 07, 2008 (1:29 pm)
After replacing the intake gaskets on my 2003 Buick Century 3.1 liter V6, it surges at higher rpms and will not develop full power. Any thoughts?
#408 of 592 Does this sound right?
Jun 11, 2008 (7:22 am)
On May 5th I took my 2000 Buick Century to a repair facility because my check engine light came on and the vehicle bucked at idle after driving for approx 15-20 minutes. The repair facility scanned the vehicle and advised me that the code pulled was for a injector # 2. They replaced the injector for the cost of $280.00
On May 11th my check engine light came on again, stayed on for 2 days and then went off, but still would flicker off and when the vehicle accelerated. I took the vehicle back to the shop on the 13th and this time they advised me the problem was my Caddilay convertor (spelling ??) I told them that was probably what was wrong with it on May 5th but of course they advised me that they replaced the injector based on the scanned codes they received so I paid them $380.00 this time to replace the convertor.
On June 9th my check engine light started to flicker when going uphill or accelerating at times, it seemed like the engine had a miss. I took it back to the same repair facility and this time they replaced my entire coil pack (according to them) at no charge to me this time . The vehicle seems ok so far but its only been a day.
I guess my question is how likely is it that I needed all these different repairs in a months span? The car has 145,000 miles on it but up until this point it has not had any problems. I have owned it for a year and a half . Thanks in advance for any input on this.
#409 of 592 POWER WINDOW PROBLEMS
Jun 11, 2008 (8:00 am)
I HAVE A 91 BUICK CENTURY WITH THE DRIVER'S SIDE POWER WINDOW SWITCH NOT WORKING OR EVEN MAKING A NOISE. FIGURED IT WAS THE SWITCH. HAD TO GO TO USED PARTS TO FIND A DIFFERENT ONE, REPLACED IT AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. TOOK IT TO DEALER WHO SAID IT WAS THE POWER WINDOW MOTOR. REPLACED IT. STILL DOESN'T WORK. OF COURSE, THE BUICK DEALERS DO NOT CARRY THESE PARTS ANY MORE, SO I AM HAVING TO RELY ON USED PARTS. HAVE CHECKED FUSES. ANY SUGGESTIONS ON WHAT MIGHT BE THE PROBLEM. ANY ANSWER WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.
#410 of 592 Re: POWER WINDOW PROBLEMS [charline]
Jun 11, 2008 (8:26 am)
Sounds like a short in the wire from the door to the switch. There are several posts on here regarding this. I have a 98 Buick Century that none of the windows were working on. We replaced the switch which we got at the dealer's and it started working. But the next day the car wouldn't start. So now the windows work, but the car won't even turn over. It just clicks. We charged up the battery and got it to start, but then it just ran down again and won't start even after driving it a long ways to charge it up.. Something is shorted out I suppose does anyone have any hints? The parts dealer said to put a voltage meter on the battery and disconnect all the fuses except the power window circuit breaker and see if it was drawing power while it was not running. We haven't done that yet. I'm having it towed to the garage tomorrow. The parts dealer said to replace the whole wiring harness as there are probably shorts in there.?
#411 of 592 Re: POWER WINDOW PROBLEMS [charline]
Jun 11, 2008 (8:46 am)
I can tell you with about 99% certainty that your wires in the black rubber wire housing in your driver side door are broken in half. I had the same problem. I slit open the black rubber thing and walla the wires where in 2 pieces. I connected according to wire type and color and got some of those electrical wire connectors by radioshack (comes with a plier kind of thing that is also a wire stripper) and my windows are working. Cost $10. and I am not a mechanic at all.
By the way when you're done you need to close the rubber housing again. I used some electrical tape and went several times around to seal it nicely.
Just my 2 cents