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Buick Century Maintenance and Repair

575 messages,  Last post on Feb 21, 2013 at 8:01 PM

You are in the Buick Century Forum.

What is this discussion about? Buick Century, Buick, Electrical, Engine, Sedan, SUV

Messages Page 3 of 58

#18 of 575 2000 Centry Low / High Problem by jsharrow

Feb 19, 2005 (9:20 am)

I have a 2000 Buick Century that has an electrical problem that is causing the low/high beam light not to work. I have taken the headlight out of this car and tested them on my 2002 Buick Century. The light worked good on my 2002 Buick. I also took the headlight switch out of my 2000 Buick and put it in my 2002 Buick and it worked correctly. I have checked the 20 amp fuse and the two 15 amp fuses and they were ok. If I hold the high beam switch on the high beam lights will come on. The parking light and daytime light work correctly. Does any body know where the Running control module is for this vehicle??? Also where is the Daytime running lamps ambient light senor?? Any suggestions to trouble shoot this problem would be appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Joel

#19 of 575 Won't start intermittently by cjb2486

Mar 15, 2005 (6:44 pm)

My father has a '98 Century with about 40k miles. A few months ago, it mysteriously began not starting. Every few weeks, when you turn the key, nothing happens -- no cranking, nothing. However, an hour later it starts with no problems. Of course the mechanics can't find any trouble codes or anything else. The battery is new.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Thank you.

#20 of 575 Re: 2000 Centry Low / High Problem [jsharrow] by jkenny

Mar 19, 2005 (7:57 pm)

Replying to: jsharrow (Feb 19, 2005 9:20 am)
Hey Joel, I have the same exact problem on our 2000 Buick Century. I took it to the dealer and they charged us $150 to tell us that it is probably the light switch and it would cost $711 to replace it. I told the service manager he was out of his mind. I took the headlamp assemblies apart and swapped the high beams to the outside position. We now leave the high beam switch on for the time being, although the light is now diffused inside the assemblies. I just bought a new switch for $70 and I'd like to know how difficult it was to change it out. Thanks, John

#21 of 575 Re: check engine light [will_man] by jwink

Mar 28, 2005 (6:51 pm)

Replying to: will_man (Jan 04, 2005 12:03 am)
Mine had that problem, best I can figure, it was the injectors sticking shut. I was a die hard fan of cheap speedway gas, never gave me a problem till this car. Now if I use it, every other tank I get an injector that sticks shut and engine runs like crap. Switched to Shell, no problems since.

#22 of 575 Re: blinker light problem [ralz] by jwink

Mar 28, 2005 (6:54 pm)

Replying to: ralz (Feb 15, 2005 1:26 pm)
Dealerships will tell you it's probably the switch arm ($400). Mine started doing that on the right, and then progressed to the right. After switch arm $400, main electronics $500, new bulbs $20 and many hours of labor, they got it fixed. Luckily it was under warranty so out of pocket was only $50 total

#23 of 575 gauges come and go by wmay80

Apr 23, 2005 (9:32 am)

on my 03 buick century everything on my instrument panel goes dead and my check engine light comes on eventually they come back and engine light goes off
ive checked all my fuses but nothings bad

#24 of 575 Re: Century 2000 Limited sedan [nancy2] by susieq723

Apr 23, 2005 (2:56 pm)

Replying to: nancy2 (May 06, 2004 1:52 pm)
Hi, Did you ever find out the problem with your Buick, Century? I am having a similar problem. When I accelerate and the car is trying to switch gears, it jerks. The only way to get this to stop is to turn the car off, remove the key (disengage the electric part) I believe it is an electrical problem, because the car will reset itself after the key has been removed, and one of the doors has been opened. I hope I have explained this. Thank-you

#25 of 575 Re: blinker light problem [ralz] by vanguard1

May 18, 2005 (7:01 pm)

Replying to: ralz (Feb 15, 2005 1:26 pm)
Well, I don't own a Buick, but all my Fords, and my Jeep had this problem. The problem was lowered resistance in the circuit allowing more current to reach that lamp, making it flash faster. The left and right circuits are parallel, and independent of each other, which is why the other side works fine and some other bulbs work in the same circuit. It's not the fuse, no lights would work if it were. If the car was ever hit, look for an open in the circuit where it was hit, using a test light, or an ohmeter. I think you are on the right track, you may have a blown bulb in the right side but from what you said, it sounds like its in the dash. Buy yourself a Chiltons or Haynes manual and check the circuit. Manuals are cheaper than mechanics. Good Luck.

#26 of 575 Re: Won't start intermittently [cjb2486] by vanguard1

May 18, 2005 (7:38 pm)

Replying to: cjb2486 (Mar 15, 2005 6:44 pm)
Iignition switch in the column? Ask your dad if the switch feels a bit loose. This happens with a lot of GM cars. I doubt it would trigger a code either. Those things go when the keychain is extra heavy. My dad had a lot of keys.

#27 of 575 Re: Century 2000 Limited sedan [susieq723] by intrepid1995

May 21, 2005 (6:07 pm)

Replying to: susieq723 (Apr 23, 2005 2:56 pm)
It sounds like you have problems with the Pressure control solenoid valve (PCS Valve). My Century 2000 had the same problem, GM has a TSB on this, it affects the 4T65E Transmission. I had mine fixed, $615.00, but this car still has a lot of problems. Anyhow, I've got a serious problem of my own --
 
Last September, just after the car had the tranny work, it broke down. When it happened, I was turning, maybe going 10 mph. The car began grinding and shuddering -- this was coming from the engine area. It was loud. If you've ever heard a cell phone or electric shaver/trimmer in vibrate mode that was placed on a counter or table top -- that was the sound my car made -- only it was about twenty times as loud. Anyhow, the car began jerking badly. I hit the brake pedal but it kept pulling. The steering wheel felt like it was stuck in wet cement and I had to use both hands to turn it. The car kept puuling, then finally stopped and stalled. The car would restart, but when put into gear, stalled. The radio and headlights worked fine. Had it towed to the dealer. They could not find anything wrong; apparently the car started for them the next day. Whatever.
 
Fastforward to about two weeks ago. The grinding noise returned. The steering wheel was fine this time, but the car, once more, did not want to stop. I was going around 20-25 mph. The car stopped this time but did not stall. The noise grew louder. The light turned green. I took my foot off the brake and the car accelerated to 20 mph -- without my foot on the accelerator. I was on a flat road. Several seconds later the grinding stopped, and the car drove again. It did not return until This past Thursday, same thing.
 
Does anyone have any idea what this could be? The shop doesn't know, and neither does anyone else. Also, has anyone else had as many problems with their Century? This car only has 79,000 miles on it. Since September it has accumulated $2,500 in repairs, and it still has this problem.

Messages Page 3 of 58

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