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Smart Shopper Buying Tips - How Do I Get the Best Deal?
5169 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:33 AM
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Replying to: percussionist (Aug 06, 2009 5:34 am) Fitzmall, while 4 hours away, seems appealing. I can get a ride from my fiancee. Not that I necessarily want/need it, but I can get the car I want with a moonroof for what I was expecting to pay w/o one. And with lower sales tax and less chance of BS fees being tacked on, I'd do pretty well. I'd hate to go all the way there, test drive, and not like it. The one that I'm interested is in Pennsylvania. One of my back-ups is the Mazda3 and they have decent prices on those as well, in their store 1 hour away from PA in Maryland. As for the rebates, I wasn't refering to cash-for-clunkers. Those only go to folks who have cars that get 18mpg's or less. I don't get $4,500 for being green and choosing to take the bus the past 7 years.  But at the end of June, when it occurred to me to look into buying a car, it seems they were giving back $1,500 on the '09 Corollas and $500 on the '10's. No such rebates now. I have no idea whether the rebates were conditional on financing the car through Toyota or whether they applied to cash purchases too. If it's the latter, I'm miffed at myself for not thinking to act sooner. After the rebates went away in July, I thought to wait until August when I figured they'd have better deals again. The cash-for-clunkers thing really threw a monkey wrench into my plans. Rebates or not, my negotiating power is not what it would've been in June. As I said earlier, I may wait for this surge to pass, but I can't wait forever. As for the other stuff, I did have my credit checked out just a few weeks ago for the mortgage stuff. If anyone asks to see it, I can show them my unofficial printout, I guess. I just can't tap into any credit right now, even with the great financing deals. Real estate prices are still ridiculous in NY/NJ, and I can't get a decent house if there's evidence that I'm taking on any debt other than the mortgage. Thanks. |
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Replying to: movinout77 (Aug 06, 2009 8:11 am) |
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Replying to: movinout77 (Aug 06, 2009 8:11 am) |
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Replying to: movinout77 (Aug 06, 2009 8:11 am) And if I remember what I read correctly, the usual strategy is to mention at the last possible minute that you're paying cash. Should I be more upfront about it? Mentioning it before agreeing on a price means they could pad the price a bit by trying to make up for what they couldn't profit from me with finance charges. Then again, by not mentioning it, they can reneg on the agreed price and try to bump me anyway, which would waste everyone's time. The dealers in my area are sleezy - especially the ones closest to me. I'd prefer not to play with those guys if I didn't have to -- esp. now since buyers like me are in what I think is a weak negotiating position. I guess it couldn't hurt to try them, but I'm thinking of waiting for this wave to pass.
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Replying to: movinout77 (Aug 06, 2009 10:22 am) I've never understood the strategy of holding back information about financing or in some deals, a trade in. To me, that just delays things and in the end doesn't change the deal. The dealers in my area are sleezy - especially the ones closest to me Same here in central Florida, home of the $699 dealer fee. I seriously doubt I'll ever own a Nissan simply because of the slime balls I've run in to at those dealers. I usually start the process with emails and then start with the dealers that were the most upfront and professional with me. |
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I'm just confused at how people get prices under invoice? First off, how to find out what the invoice is... then how to talk them out of their profit? Is this possible or are these people crazy? Thanks for your help. I'm looking to buy a Honda Civic EX if I can get the price down enough... around 17k would be perfect, but I have a feeling I'm going to have to get an LX around that price.
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Replying to: ellusionz21 (Sep 04, 2009 12:41 am) Usually below invoice prices are obtained on models that the dealer wants to get rid of or that have large rebates (same thing really). Lets say your dealer has 100 Civics and 90 of them are EX models. He realizes that he ordered too many EXs and therefore tells the salesman to give a better price on those to move them off the lot. The only way to know is look around the car lot and make a below invoice offer. "...how to find out what the invoice is..." Simple answer is to look it up here on Edmunds under "new cars". Just be sure to factor in things such as "holdback", "advertising fees", "marketing support" and "doc fees" which can confuse the issue. Bottom line is, you can't tell what price a dealer will sell the car for unless you ask. If the price is too high go to another dealer or raise your offer. Good luck.
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Sep 04, 2009 1:55 am) 
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Replying to: ellusionz21 (Sep 04, 2009 2:00 am) Edmunds says for that car MSRP is $20105, Invoice is $18515 plus $710 delivery charge for total Invoice of $19225. Also in my area there is $1000 in "market support" to the dealer which if you could get them to give that up would bring the price down to about $18,225 Honda also gives the dealer back about 2% of the invoice (holdback) for selling the car or about $400 which would bring the price down to $17825 which is as close to dealer cost as can be determined. You want to offer $17.5 to $18K plus you want them to pay tax, tile and licence (let's say $1000). You are asking them to take about a $1k loss on a popular car. I don't see it happening but check Edmunds figures for your zip code. There may be additional incentives in your area. There is also a prices paid forum here which may give you some direction (take those price claims with a grain of salt). |
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