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Smart Shopper Buying Tips - How Do I Get the Best Deal?
5169 messages, Last post on Oct 29, 2009 at 11:33 AM
You are in the Smart Shopper Forum. Your Hosts are kirstie_h & tidester
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Replying to: joel0622 (May 25, 2009 6:48 am) Really? In my experience, when I've mentioned ordering, the salesguy has reacted like I just threw acid in his face. I've had them go so far as to lie to me and tell me the car I wanted wasn't being made any more so I would have to select from in-stock units.  Maybe I'll come see you next time. 
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Replying to: oldfarmer50 (Jun 04, 2009 5:29 am) 
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Replying to: joel0622 (Jun 08, 2009 12:27 pm) Like 90% of the population. |
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I am a member of an organization that has VIP pricing w Subaru. As a member I am entitled to a price "2% below dealer invoice". have 2 questions regarding using this program: 1. Is the "dealer invoice" the same as the invoice prices I find on Edmunds when I go to build a car? 2. In the past I have been pretty successful in negotiating prices significantly below invoice. But I am in the market for a 2010 Forester or Outback, both which are selling very well so I may be less successful at getting a great price on my own. At what point should I say "I have a VIP Subaru pricing. So me starting point for negotion on this price is 2% below your invoice". Should inform them as soon as the conversation starts or go through the dance 1st? Any other suggestions welcomed -- thanks!
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Replying to: 204meca (Jul 06, 2009 11:52 am) |
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Replying to: 204meca (Jul 06, 2009 11:52 am) They also said that dealers were not required to participate, and it was up to dealer to include all models. Even though they are selling well (nortsr1, Subaru is the only make with a sales increase), a lot of it is from the Impreza. If you are buying one of the higher end models, it shouldn't be difficult to get VIP pricing. My opinion? Be upfront with the dealer. You are unlikely to get much better than dealer invoice. The outback is brand new (it arrives this week or so), and the Forrester is also new. If you are one of those people who like to squeeze every single dollar from the deal, by all means grind away first. I value my time, and don't think you can do better than dealer invoice cost. Finally, I don't think the invoice price you see in Edmunds is the same as dealer invoice cost, but somebody in the biz is better suited than me to answer it.
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Replying to: verdugo (Jul 06, 2009 1:43 pm) The only reason they don't is that these charges vary from region to region and Edmunds can't be bothered to get all of them and come up with a way to let you know what the cost is in your area. Otherwise, you should be able to match up whatever the invoice is on Edmunds with the real one at the dealer. Also, these buyer plans aren't a point to open negotiations with, they are a one price, one size fits all way to buy a car. So, be up front if you are eligible. |
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What should my strategy be? - cash payment - no good at haggling, no time for games - timing – test drive, rebates, demand surge from cash for clunkers Hi, everyone. I believe the answer I’m seeking doesn’t apply to any one brand. I’ve also read the car-buying strategy guide, but am not sure how certain things apply to me and the current times. I’m in the NY metro area, never bought or owned my own car, and have gotten by without a car for several years now, but I’m going to need one within the next couple of months (would’ve preferred to have had one a few months ago, but I’ve gotten by). I’m also in the beginning stages of buying a house. I wish to pay for my car (Corolla / Civic / Mazda 3) in *cash*, and since I’ll be applying for a mortgage soon, I’d strongly prefer that my credit not be checked by the dealer lest such an inquiry lower my score. And since I don’t have time for the usual car-buying games that I hear about, or that much willpower in terms of haggling, I’m tempted to go the fixed price route to buy (e.g., carmax, AAA, Costco). Although I won’t get the absolute best deal, would this be a reasonable option for my situation? Alternatively, I can pit dealers against each other through the internet as is commonly recommended, but then a few other questions arise… - If I play the strategy by-the-book and wait until the last possible minute to say that it’s a cash purchase, is it likely that the price originally quoted won’t be honored since it might assume a profit off financing that won't happen? I’d hate to waste time pursuing an unrealistic deal. - The test drive - The car that was originally my first choice, 2010 automatic Corolla S in blue, seems rather rare and I’ve been reading quite a few bad things about its power steering. I’d hate to go through the trouble of a bidding war only to test drive it and learn that it drives like a shopping cart. I’m not sure when to do the test drive. I’m afraid that if I just walk in and ask for one, that that sales person would be the one handling my sale and not the internet person, who seems to be more willing to negotiate. I suppose I could find a dealership that I have virtually no interest in buying from to do it, but the steering issues seem to occur at highway speeds, and this place isn’t anywhere near where I’d be able to do even 55 mph. Lastly, I’ve had trouble timing this whole thing. I first decided on the Corolla at the very end of June, when they were giving $500 cash back on the ‘10’s. There’s no way I would’ve had my finances in order to complete a purchase by the time that offer expired, so I waited out the unimpressive July deals and now I’m stuck in August. This cash-for-clunkers thing has really put me in a bind. I’m not sure if cash-back rebates are typically only for those who finance with the car company. If they are, then that won’t factor too much into the timing (meaning I wasted a month for nothing) . But, with the surge in demand for compact cars, I have much less negotiating power than I did just two weeks ago. And, there aren’t even rebates on the ‘09’s anymore. Should I wait all this out – maybe even until the ‘10’ Civics come out, or should I just get this purchase over with knowing that the market may be recovering? OK, I’ve analyzed this to death. If anyone has any ideas to share, I’d greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
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Replying to: movinout77 (Aug 05, 2009 3:53 am) Don't let that put you off what is otherwise a fine car. I think the major problem with the Corolla's steering is that it is different. It does take a little while to adapt to it if you are used to a car which does not have Electric Power Steering. Once you are used to it there is no problem, I speak from personal experience. Five years from now, maybe less, most cars will have Electric Power Steering, it is an energy saving feature. |
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Replying to: movinout77 (Aug 05, 2009 3:53 am) So buy at Carmax.Also Fitzmall is close in Wasington DC metro area -don`t know how far u are from them but they also are very good for new cars.Their online fixed price is pretty good. Hope this helps.
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