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BMW 7-Series Maintenance and Repair

751 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 11:40 AM
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| when first taking off there is a hard shift from 1 to 2 sometimes.i checked tranmission fluid which was good.is there some type of electronic problem that would cause that | |
| sometimes the screen works fine,some other time its just static.when it is static it seems like it want to pop in but most of the time it won't.is that something loose in the connection or maybe something else | |
| Due to needed repairs I had to park my car but the date to have repairs made have has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery to put a charge in it. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008. | |
| Due to needed repairs I had to park my car. The date to have repairs made has been extended twice. The other day I went to start the car and of course realized I was unable to get the key to unlock the door, not to speak of accessing the battery that is now dead and needs to be charged. What do I do now? Is there anyone out there who has a solution? I need to move the car in the next couple of days--at least by December 1, 2008. | |
My wife's 01 740il, 135K, has for the last 6 months been developing a (what I incorrectly called a surge) that was barely noticeable at light throttle, highway speeds. As I have watched, the tach when it drops engine speed to engage overdrive, the engine makes a growling or "snoring" sound and pops out of overdrive. Took it to a local bimmer shop (not dealer). Said the Vanus valve was bad from sludge (Thanks BMW service plan from original owner). Caused the control module mounted in conjunction with themostat housing to go bad because the vanus could not move properly confusing the module and burned it out. (not sure I buy it) Anyways, this growling, gear hunting, transmision chattering occurance happens ONLY after the car has achieved operating temp. I have taken the throttle body apart, no wear detectable. Have replaced the spark plugs and boots. HAve spent 1600 dollars on shop to replace vanus valve, control module, etc, Now problem is worse. And the check engine light comes on (bulb burned out now) Please, any help would be appreciated. Don't have money for shop again and Wife won't drive it.
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Replying to: DACollins (Dec 15, 2008 1:47 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Dec 15, 2008 2:13 pm)
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Replying to: DACollins (Dec 15, 2008 3:58 pm) Saying that a light "should come on" is not an answer. They should be looking for a code regardless. Wide and sudden fluctuations in engine timing would be a pretty spooky thing--that would be throwing all kinds of codes then. It's kind of hard without driving the car myself. I didn't buy the Vanos idea either. |
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Replying to: jchenirvine (Feb 01, 2004 12:31 am) |
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I have owned BMW's for a long time and my current 740I will be my last. At only 75,000 miles (1998 model year) the thing is falling apart re: repairs and I am not the only one with these problems.. too many to list. The latest and perhaps most costly problem is the Catalytic converters. I don't have the engine light yet, however they are making that trademark 'gravel' type sound after car is on for a few minutes. I am not going to let the dealer do it for they want 5,800.00 (they must be on crack). I will use aftermarket items that cost less than 100 each plus installation (will use a muffler shop I know of). I have friends who have Toyota, Nissan ect and they are much less to maintain. Do they feel as good when you close the door, no. Why can't BMW engineer cars that don't cost a ton to maintain? You see a lot of people with Honda Accords with 150K miles and they run strong and have not needed much re: repairs. |
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