Toyota Tundra: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

490 messages, Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:21 PM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Tundra, Truck

Having a problem with your Tundra? This is the place to post your questions or offer your solutions and helpful hints!

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#434 of 490 2000 Tundra instrument panel light question . . . . . by tondra May 29, 2006 (8:18 am)
I have lost my light for the odometer, speedometer, etc. The headlights work fine, but when I turn on the headlights I don't get any light for the gauges. Makes it tough to drive at night, as you can imagine. I have checked fuses and cannot find a bad one although I am not positive which fuse controls the instrument panel light. I have pulled the front panel off the dash around the radio hoping to find the light but no luck. Does anyone know where the bulb is located and how to get to it? Thanks much. Replies to this message: scsr52000 (Jun 02, 2006 9:06 am)
#435 of 490 Drive line problems by papalou56 May 29, 2006 (3:56 pm)
My 2000 Tundra has 135000 miles on it. I recenly had the carrier bearing replaced because the rubber seal was ruptured. Now the drive shaft vibrates. The dealer says I need a new drive shaft and wants aboout $850 to replace it. It took them over 4 hours to replace the carrier bearing. I think they damaged the drive shaft when replacing the bearing. Any comments or suggestions??? Thanks Papalou56
#436 of 490 Re: 2000 Tundra instrument panel light question . . . . . [tondra] by scsr52000 Jun 02, 2006 (9:06 am)
Replying to: tondra (May 29, 2006 8:18 am) When working around an airbag you should remove the negative battery cable to disable it, then you have to remove the cluster bezel screws. (the bezel is simply the trim around the clear cover over the instrument cluster) I believe there are two located at the top of the trim. Then pull-wiggle it towards you and it will come loose. After that you will see the retaining screws for the instrument cluster, take these out then pull out the cluster and you will see the connectors plugged into the back. Just rotate the bulb holder counterclockwise and pull it out.
#437 of 490 Re: hesitation [roofrat] by scsr52000 Jun 02, 2006 (10:47 am)
Replying to: roofrat (Apr 01, 2006 8:12 pm) On a whim bought a can of throttle body intake cleaner after reading a post and cleaned all around the butterfly and intake and it made a big difference in my response and fuel mileage. I have a very predictable driving pattern that rarely varies. Before I cleaned it I filled up every two weeks and was almost dead on empty at the end. Now at the end of two weeks I still have between 1/4 - 1/2 tank. Thought it was a fluke but after four more fill ups and the same result im convinced.
#438 of 490 Re: Replacing O2 sensors [mitundra] by mac47 Jun 03, 2006 (5:31 am)
Replying to: mitundra (Jul 08, 2005 12:14 pm) How did you reset the check engine light? Did you use an analyzer? I changed the spark plugs myself, using recommended Autolight plugs. While doing the job, I found the original plugs to be dual electrode. I used the new plugs and the light activated. I then installed Bosch Platinum dual electrode plugs but need to reset the indicator. I know GM codes can be read and reset using a paper clip. I have done it successfully, but am afraid to try on the Toyota. Replies to this message: charley2 (Jun 12, 2006 6:12 am)
#439 of 490 Re: Things I have learned about my Tundra... [ustazzaf] by capt2 Jun 11, 2006 (4:59 pm)
Replying to: ustazzaf (May 28, 2006 7:41 pm) Ok jerk...I havn't had occasion to use the jack either, but I would expect it to work. When I bought the truck I didn't spec the towing pacage, it was already there. It would have been nice if some one had said "throw away that cap" since they deceided to put a hole in the front so water could get trapped. Guess we can't all be smart as you. Replies to this message: kcram (Jun 12, 2006 5:39 pm)
#440 of 490 Re: Replacing O2 sensors [mac47] by charley2 Jun 12, 2006 (6:12 am)
Replying to: mac47 (Jun 03, 2006 5:31 am) You should be able to clear your trouble codes by removing your negative battery terminal for 30 seconds or more. That should reset your Check Engine light. If the code comes back, it's an ongoing problem. If that happens, first make sure you haven't pulled any vacuum hoses by accident; then get the code read with a reader or analyzer. BTW, I believe you can't do the paperclip thing anymore on GM vehicles after '96 when the newer OBD II standard went into effect.
#441 of 490 Tundra Current Info by charley2 Jun 12, 2006 (7:29 am)
I have an '00 Tundra SR5 V8, and here's what I've found out so far: Brake rotor warpage is common, and seemingly chronic in at least '03 and earlier tundras. Amazing, with 4 pistons per caliper, that the system would contain this flaw. Some people wonder about ceramic pads, but I think this traps more heat at the rotor face because they're really insulative. Some people are considering slotted rotors, which would be great for dissipating dust and some heat, but then you could actually create more heat on the metal under heavy braking because you have less metal contact with the pads. Also, I may be wrong, but it used to be that you could not have slotted or drilled rotors turned - they're not serviceable. I'd look good semimetallic or metallic pads that have the cleaning grooves in the pads themselves. Either that, or get fibrous (like Kevlar) pads. Me, I just quit riding the brakes and it seems okay these days. The O2 sensors were bulletined for earlier Tundras. I had both mine replaced free, and they replaced my intake manifolds too - also free. Before that, the engine ran really lean, feeling "dry" and lacking smoothness, and triggering the Check Engine light chronically. There is a lurch in the A340-series transmission, usually in 3rd gear upshift under heavy acceleration, and this can sometimes take the rear differential out. This is not a broken tranny but seems to be an inherent quirk of these transmissions in the V8 Tundras. My torque converter went out at 93k miles. Seems like the lockup pistons got trashed. Found a rebuilt torque converter at drivetrain.com for $100 plus core. They have tranny rebuild kits for about $250 that includes juswt about everything (excludes the torque converter). Lots of people report stalling when coming to a stop or going out of Park. In my Tundra, this was due to the fuel pump starting to fail. This also happened in my GMC van, and it was also the fuel pump. Both were repaired and the problem went away in both vehicles. The GMC was done at a garage for about $280; the Tundra went to the dealer and cost over $700. Both of my pumps went out a few months after the big hurricanes in '05, and I suspect contaminated (water, or something) fuel at the stations. Either that, or that darned MTBE they used to use - that stuff is engine-killer because you'd lose so much octane so quickly. Short shelflife. You park the truck with the headlights on, they go off automatically. You open the passenger door before the lights go off, then close the door, and, guess what; they stay on until the battery dies. I think it's a logic flaw in the circuitry relating to an open loop (failure to anticipate in logorythm) in the seat pessure sensor feedback handling. My Tundra has no audible or visible warning that the lights have been left on, so it's a real pain. From my own experience, and from other postings I've read here, choosing the right dealer is critical. There are excellent Toyota dealers out there, and there are crooks too. A tip to Toyota dealers: If you're looking for a service manager, don't hire anyone with the following on their resumes: Brake Check, AAMCO, Midas, Cottman, or any of those other high-pressure folks. You want to improve service revenues? Is it worth eliminating your car-purchase customer base? I'm assuming that dealers make their money from unit sales, and having a cutthroat service manager is the best way in the world to lose unit sales customer base. Heck, what's worse is, if you do shoddy work or don't acknowledge problems as covered under warranty, and if you don't lose the customer vis-a-vis sales, you'll probably reinherit your own poor workmanship when they trade the car back in for their next one. Also, and last tip, is if you buy a used Toyota from a Toyota dealer, make certain it's a Certified Used Vehicle. If they don't Certify it, they've looked at it and decided not to take the chance. If they do Certify it, you get a 7-year, 100,000 mile extended warranty on drivetrain, plus other continued warranty support. Not all used Toyotas are Certified. My Tundra is sitting 1,400 miles away, after the torque converter went out in the middle of nowhere (somewhere between Knoxville and Chattanooga, and I live in Houston, TX). I thought I had extended coverage because I bought it from a Toyota dealer when it was 2 years old. Apparently, mine is not a Certified Used Vehicle. I borrowed someone's car to get back home, so the roundtrip will run about $600 in gas and at least three days' downtime for traveling. What a drag. That doesn't even include the (relatively cheap) repair. If you're thinking about going from, say, GM to a Tundra, do some research. I'm originally from Hawaii, and Toyota's reputation was bulletproof when it came to reliability. My GM (Chevy 1500) needed two a/c compressors, five or six window motors, a water pump and two alternators and a fuel pump in six years. My Tundra has needed only a fuel pump and now a torque converter in four years. However, my GM never broke down to where I couldn't get to help. My Tundra has left me on the side of the road twice, and both times with major repairs required. I'm starting to think I'd rather just buy the foo-foo stuff on GM vehicles rather than deal with the major breakdowns that my Tundra goes through. I love my Tundra when it's behaving, but I've started to lose confidence in its major systems so I'll not take it on the road again and I probably won't buy another one for now (mine is getting traded in as soon as it is back in Houston). And the brake vibration really is annoying.....
#442 of 490 Re: Things I have learned about my Tundra... [capt2] by kcram HOST Jun 12, 2006 (5:39 pm)
Replying to: capt2 (Jun 11, 2006 4:59 pm) Not necessary. If you think someone is being uncivil, either don't answer them, or contact me. kcram - Pickups Host
#443 of 490 Tundra/Tow Hitch Receiver Sleeve by newell Jun 15, 2006 (1:48 pm)
YA BABY!!! Keep the "Kids" in line!!! Regarding the tow hitch receiver; I checked my 2004 DC hitch which I don't use either, but Toyota has addressed that problem: my cap has two slots either side to the end of cap to drain any moisture collected inside. Hey love this message board!! Keep up the good work passing on info. Mark/Cape Cod