Last post on Nov 26, 2006 at 9:21 PM
You are in the Toyota Tundra
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Toyota Tundra, Truck
Having a problem with your Tundra? This is the place to post your questions or offer your solutions and helpful hints!
#209 of 490 Re: Tundra breaks suck, Toyota doesn't care [mrwilson]
Jun 26, 2005 (9:29 pm)
I too have a 2002 Tundra. At 6,000 miles I experienced terrible shuddering coming down a mountain road. I drove straight to the dealer. They rolled their eyes knowingly and told me my brake fluid was low and they would top me off. I drove away feeling like an idiot, However, a few weeks later the brakes were squealing so loudly that I went to the local brake shop because the nearest dealer is an hour away. Needless to say...they told me I narrowly missed rotor damage and I had to have the brakes replaced.
About 2 months ago, at 80,000 miles I noticed the hard shift into 3rd gear seemed to be getting worse. I took the truck to the dealer and they had 2 people drive it and said there was nothing wrong. It has continued to be increasingly pronounced and today I noticed a vibration when accelerating. I was 20 miles from home when I lost forward momentum (sorry my girl interpretation) and I ended up calling for a tow. Don't know what the problem is yet...but seems to be the transmission.
Aside from these two issues...it has run perfectly for 90,000 miles. I think the dealers could be more helpful, though, with the problems they obviously are aware of.
#210 of 490 2001 Brakes / co2 Sensor / need a cap
Jun 27, 2005 (12:35 pm)
Appreciate the info on the slotted rotors and semi mettalic pads. How much does that run? Also got screwed on the co2 sensors... past warranty.
#211 of 490 Re: 2001 Brakes / co2 Sensor / need a cap [wcc1958]
Jun 30, 2005 (9:23 am)
Get Powerslot rotors and Hawk (metallic!!) brake pads. You can get them through Performance Products, but I found them online even cheaper. $90 each for the rotors and $50 for the pads. That's cheaper than OEM stuff through Toyota or about the same as aftermarket stuff.
The problem is that they undersized the pads on the early Tundras, causing overheating and warping of the rotors. The Hawk uses a better heat dissipating material than the OEM pads and the pad rotor combo grabs like my Beemer . Also, after the brake in always heat temper any rotor about every 3 months. Do this by very heavy braking from highway speed on a cool rotor (freeway exit ramps work great). But.... never stop completely either while braking in or tempering your rotors. It creates a hot spot where the pad is and leads to warping. It'll help keep and rotor from warping
I have 20K mi on the powerslot/hawk combo and no sign of any warping. Let's see; with a little homework, performance brakes for the price of aftermarket replacements?? It's a no brainer.
BTW, NEVER use ceramic brake pads. The heat dissipating properties suck and warp rotors!! Vehicle mfgs use them, since they produce less brake dust and it's the big push at the auto parts store. That is unless you don't care about braking performance and prefer clean wheels. I myself just use a carwash.
Oh and I'm sure most of you have heard about Toyota's double secret recall on the Tundra/Sequoia brakes. A set up like mine solves the problem for life, at about the same price, with improved performance.
Good Luck and let me know if you have any questions!!
#213 of 490 Heater Fan, Only One Speed
Jul 04, 2005 (2:48 pm)
I have a 2000 Tundra on which the heater only has one speed - High. Low and medium do not work. Since there are only 2-wires to the fan, the speed control has to happen between the 3-position fan switch and the fan. I'm 99% sure its not the fan switch because I have another and both switches provide only high speed.
Therefore, I assume there is fan speed/voltage regulator somewhere attached to a metal heatsink. I have no idea exactly what I'm looking for or where to look.
I imagine this fan speed/voltage regulator is generic across many Toyotas. What is it? Where is it? Any ideas would be appreciated.
#214 of 490 brake replacement
Jul 05, 2005 (11:16 am)
I am new to this board, and have a ? about brake replacement. I am not satisfied with level of detail:(lack of color photos, vague descriptions of the brake replacement process), contained in the chilton's toyota tundra repair guide. I am wondering if anybody might know of a more customer friendly, detailed oriented book or website I might peruze for this tundra amateur "do it yourselfer?"
#215 of 490 Replacing O2 sensors
Jul 08, 2005 (12:14 pm)
This may be a stupid question for those who have done this already, but what is the procedure for replacing the O2 Sensor on my 00 Tundra. I looked at these for a minute the other night and couldn't plainly see any head to mount a wrench on securely. Any help would be apprecitated.
The history of my 2000 Tundra goes as follows. It is a SR5 4wd Access Cab V-8 that I purchased new in May of 2000. It had some vibration problems in the begining and was remedied with a couple of tire balancings. I installed new pads in the front at around 45000 miles. I had a transmission problem starting around 53000 miles. It would shift so hard it felt like it was going to blow then it would run fine. It was in the dealer several times for this and everytime they said they couldn't pinpoint the problem. It finaly went at 58000 miles an she was done. I was given a Matrix for a loaner while they replaced the tranny with a new one. This took them 4 weeks to get the tranny and another few days to fix. They had my truck for 27days and the bill would have been $2800 but it was covered under warrenty.
I installed a set of Goodyear AT/D tires and they might has well have been square on this truck they drove like crap for two years till I couldn't stand it anymore. I replaced those with a set of Bridgstone Dueller HL alenzas and they are awesome. The parking brake seized around 80000 miles and then I developed a slight vibration at braking. I had the rears inspected and they said they were fine but wanted to charge over $400 to replace the front rotors and pads. I was able to get the best pads and two new rotors for $121 out the door and did it myself. This was done at 96000 miles along with changing the spark plugs and gear lubes. Unfortuantly I still have a slight vibration that I think is a warped rear drum. It has developed a slight exhaust leak that is likely a crack in the header.
The truck now has 102000 miles and the check engine light just came on for the first time. I reset it and it was off for a day then came back on again. All in all it's been a great truck but has had more problems than any other of the 4 Toyotas I have owned. I want to dump this truck and get a new one but I want to wait to get the new plastic bed on the Tundra and I would really like diesel. I may be shopping for a domestic diesel soon if the price is right. I thought I would have 0 problems with this one to 120000 miles but it was not the case here, and miine is far better then alot of those on this and other websites.
Hope somebody has an answer for the O2 Sensor replacement I figure I can do both around a hundred cheaper then the dealer can do one for. So what do I have to lose .
#216 of 490 Re: Toyota RECALLS 774,856 Tundras, Tacomas,4Runners and Sequoias [thedude0
Jul 13, 2005 (10:44 am)
Let me set YOU and every other Toyota owner straight about Toyota, Service Campaigns and their lack of response to the ball joint problem. I have a 02 Tundra and you can count me as AT LEAST case number 7. My ball joint failed on June 18 and I'm LUCKY, VERY LUCKY to be alive. Toyota's response to the problem is abmismal to say the least. I contacted headquarters, met with regional reps and all the same reply "we don't know anything about the recall." I asked if they would repair my vehicle with new "recall quality" parts and they said NO. I had to fight tooth and nail even to get them to replace the drivers side ball joint. You see I checked this problem out thoroughly and everyone else who has experienced the failure have been told that it must be something they did and THEY HAD TO PAY TO HAVE THEIR VEHICLE REPAIRED! Not only that, at least one case ended up having the second ball joint fail a year later. They say my vehicle "MAY" be involved in the UPCOMING service campaing. MAY BE INVOLVED!!! It already happened. How much more proof do they need that there is a problem? So in the end, all I could get them to do is replace the front ball joints with old parts. I'll still have to take the vehicle back to have them replaced again IF AND WHEN I receive my notice. It is already the middle of July. Has anyone yet to receive a notice? I am warning ALL Tundra owners. Be careful, extremely careful. You won't get any warning that the failure is going to happen. I had squeeking/grinding in the ball joint since my truck was 8 months old. It couldn't be serviced because it is a sealed joint. The squeaking/grinding comes and goes. At the time the joint failed, no squeeking/grinding. You see, the squeeking/grinding is that scratched joint wearing away the joint. If you are experiencing or have ever experienced this same sound or problem, you may just want to park your truck. That's what I have done. Once the ball joint goes, so does your brakes and unless you are lucky enough to have just turned into a parking lot when it happens, you may not live to tell your story. I'm waiting for the "Service Campaign" to reach my mail box. Once I get the new parts, the truck is going to be sold and I'll never buy another Toyota product again. Anyone can make a mistake but how they handle a problem is a true indicator of how good the company is. Toyota failed miserably in this department. Their actions lead me to believe that they are hiding or running from a very serious problem.
Need to know more? You can see my complaint on the NHTSA web site. They have all my photos and a complete chronological report of the events and my attempt to get Toyota to acknowlege the defect.
Now, quit defending Toyota. Obviously they have more than enough high powered lawyers doing that.
#217 of 490 Re: Hung switch key [larsloose]
Jul 14, 2005 (6:42 pm)
I have an 05 dbl cab (3400 mi.) with the same problem. Toyota says it's a normal thing and they have known about it since the late 90's but they do not have a fix for it. According to them it's just a thing you live with
#218 of 490 Re: 2005 Tundra Double cab TRD [garyanders]
Jul 14, 2005 (6:51 pm)
Just got my dbl cab out of the shop for about the 4th time since march (only 3400 miles on it so far). I have spoken with the regional reps, received a case # etc. They are still claiming that the rumble I have is caused by the exhaust and there is no fix at this time. I asked for a damper to be placed on the exhaust to take away the vibration and the rep said that they didn't have anything like that and refused to go to an outside source to get one.
I was also getting a bad vibration when taking off and a rubbing/scraping sound when turning. They installed some sort of anti-friction part in the rear end and re-lubed everything. This seems to have taken care of these problems (shouldn't have had them in the first place!)